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My car does not have a catalytic converter. It is titled as a 1985 vehicle and in Memphis they are cracking down on emissions. I may need to add a converter to pass inspection
. I do not know much of anything about those. I do understand they can get hot so I will need to add a heat shield. I can get a universal converter for less than a hundred bucks. Is this something that I can simply place in the exhaust system between the engine and the muffler? Do I need to have a mechanic do this? My donor car was 1974 Pinto 2.3L, carb’d. I don’t know what the emission standards were in 1985. I assume they had catalytic converters on the 2.3L of that time, but don’t know. I appreciate any thoughts or advice. There is not much room between the floor and the road. My muffler is already low and has dents in it from road bangs. Thanks,James
James,
Converters were required on all vehicles from ’81 on. This year usually applies what year the vehicle is registered as, rather than the engine. So, I guess you are at the mercy of what Memphis interprets. If engine year, you’re OK without one.
I’ve read some discussions on this subject on some of the classic and hot rod sites and it pretty much depends on the local law. I remember them saying that if required on older cars they don’t need O2 sensors etc, so It should be a muffler shop install.
Good luck with it, I’m sorry I don’t know more.
Ringo
Ringo,
Memphis goes with the year on the title
. I did find a great video about the converter. This at least helps me understand how it works.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmtFp-SV0tY
Thanks,
James
Keep in mind that some states will have specific rules relative to emissions and KitCars. I know in MA last year they said that all the emissions that were originally on the donor car had to be incorporated on the KitCar. So if your donor vehicle had cats then your KitCar would also need them. Same with air pump, egr valve, o2 senors and the rest of the emissions equipment.
This caused quite a stir in my Cobra community since induviduals were using crate engines without all that emissions stuff installed. Certainly more then one car will have be be rebuilt before being inspected.
RobBaker39927.5726041667
I got to spend the day with the car installing my new top and side curtains
. I looked under the car and I have an area with plenty of room for a cat. It actually appears to have had one before because there is a section of tail pipe spliced in that is about the length of a cat. I probably need to have some sort of heat shield between the fiberglass tub and the converter that I am planning on installing. I am thinking of a sheet metal shield with an air space between both. Does this sound reasonable? Does anyone else have a cat that uses a heat shield?James
My Chevette TD has a cat (a gutted out one) and during assembly I made a Stainless steel heat shield for protection just to be sure. A working cat can get very hot. I left an air space between the fiberglass floor pan and the shield. I have put on over 2000 miles and have had no problem.
Bill
Thanks Bill,
Stainless is a great idea. I should have about 2 inches between the cat and glass to work in a shield. Thanks,
James
The high flow cats made by Magna-Flow don’t get as hot as the “regular” flow, but a heat shield is a must for ALL cats in my book. Especially with fiberglass floors.
I use these cats on my other vehicles. They are reasonably priced and are of high quality construction using stainless steel.
http://www.discountconverter.com/DynoMax_highflow/ is the vendor I use.
All you need to know is the inlet/outlet/diameters and length you want and any good muffler shop can install it after you buy it.
James;
You might want to check out this product. I used it under the floor of my F-100 and thought about using it on the Duchess. It works great since it attaches to the floor of the car with rivets or screws. Easier than fabricating a stainless shield.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS& ;Category=10271
Ringo
Ringo39930.4658449074
James and Gang;
I can’t seem to get the hyperlinks to work!
Here’s the parent company of the those heat shields.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heat_shield.php
They have lots of heat shield products that might be handy for fiberglass cars.
Later, Ringo
WOW, thanks for all the info guys. I check them out.
I seem to have run into another problem. My engine will not turn over. I had started it a couple weeks ago and it was fine, good oil pressure, etc. This weekend the starter could not turn it. I removed the plugs and tried to turn it by hand, like I used to be able to do. It’s like it is frozen. I checked, and it was in neutral, and everything appeared to be fine. I had replaced the timing belt last year when it snapped, but have driven a lot since. I think my best plan of attack is to remove the timing belt and see which area is causing the problem, the crankshaft side or the camshaft side. When I replaced the belt, the crankshaft turned without any problems by hand, but the camshaft side gave me some fight, but I could rotate it with a big wrench. I suspect the problem is in the camshaft/head area. That may be the reason my timing belt had snapped. I will start with the dismantling of the body this weekend. I did get the new top installed last weekend and it is perfect. I’ll post some pics soon.
James
James,
Sorry to hear about that. I’d say taking the timing belt off first is a good idea. Let’s hope it is the top end. Most likely if it’s Cam, you have a siezed cam bearing. You could pull the cover off and loosen the bearings one at a time while attempting to turn the cam with a ratchet. This will likely tell you which bearing is bad. Had it happen on a Volvo once (aluminum bearing seats)
Let’s hope for the best
Rich
If it’s the engine, not a weak starter or battery, you probably “dropped” a valve(s). A cam bearing would not seize these motors. It would knock and be loud, but not seize the engine. Timing belts snap because they are old or a bad or improperly adjusted tensioner wore it out prematurely. They would not snap if the crank or cam seized.
The cam turned hard when you replaced the belt because it’s “loaded” with the pressure of 8 valve springs…and the possibility of bent valve stems from the belt letting go. Cranks have no pressure on them other than the rings contacting the cylinder walls and that is minimal. So that’s why it turned easier.
By turning the cam and crank over you are making it worse. The valve may have been bent since the timing belt snapped and, from use, finally let go.
Instead of forcing it to turn over possibly doing more damage, you should pull the valve cover and check all the valves. Remove the rockers (cam followers) and push down on each valve stem with the butt of a hammer handle or similar tool. A bent stem will either not push down or not return fully after it’s pushed down.
If you dropped one, it should be visible via the valve spring too. The bent valve stem may still be connected to the keeper, but jammed in the valve guide, so the spring didn’t launch.
At least, you’ll have to pull the head, then you’ll find the problem. If the piston(s) are all dinged up, you’ve got a complete rebuild coming.
Let us know what’s up.
Pink MG39932.4793865741
Thanks. I had been concerned when the timing belt broke while driving, thinking it was a self destructing engine. I later found out that is was not a self destructing type
. At the same time of timing belt replacement, I replaced the valve cover gasket and inspected the valve train visually. They looked okay. I let the engine turn over without the plugs, but with the new timing belt installed so I can verify the mark alignments and watch the valves, etc. I turned the engine over by hand with a socket wrench on the crank bolt, did two full revolutions. There were no resistance spots, and it turned with the same force throughout. I put everything back together, checked the fluids, connected the battery, hit the starter and she started on the first hit, and purred steady and smooth. I took her for a short spin and she drove like a dream, even peeled out of the driveway. I probably put more than a dozen short trips (5 mile or less) on her since then, always starting immediately just by reaching in and bumping the key. She ran great when I parked her last. It was the next time when I hit the starter that it would not turn. I checked the battery and all the connections, it was fine. I thought the starter had gone on me, and that is when I removed the plugs and tried to turn it over by hand like I had done before. No go, so I did not force anything until I can get in there.
My initial thought was in the camshaft area, because of the fight it gave me at first during the belt replacement, but I probably was not expecting as much resistance as I got. This is my first time with an overhead cam. All my other rebuild projects have not involved overhead cams and used timing chains and hydraulic lifters.
Saturday, I plan on removing the valve cover and checking her out starting at the top. I’ll post my findings. Since I have no idea of the mileage on the engine, something could have let go….like a dropped valve.
James
Geesh!
James I have no Idea, but I wish you luck. I can’t believe it worked like a dream and then all the sudden nothing! At least it happened at home. Good luck and let us know! I bet some of the other members like Rich or Ringo could give you some expert opinions on what the problem could be.
Geoff
James,
OUCH! That is not the way to enter the summer.
I may be reaching here, but before you tear into the engine take the starter completely out and see if you can then turn the engine over by hand. I’ve had a Ford starter lock with the flywheel before. Took me days to figure that one out. Now it would be the first thing I would check if I ever have one “lock up” again. Let us know.
Good Luck,
RingoJames,
You are getting some sage advice here, but remember, free advice is worth every penny
I have to agree with Ringo that the all of a sudden it doesn’t turn seems like a starter, but you are there, on site, with vehicle. If it is still a mystery once you start to dig into it, just keep feeding us data and we’ll try to help based on our experience. Kinda like chicken soup for a cold, might help, can’t hurt.
Hope all turns in your favor.
Rich
Sometimes I just can’t see the forest for the trees. It never occurred to me to look at the starter. We just recently had discussions relative to starters and DUH, it never clicked with me. Great idea, I’ll not start at the top, but I’ll start at the bottom (kinda like life
)My plans were to replace the starter anyway, now may be the time to check it out. I don’t know how old the starter is, but I think it says something about EDISON ELECTRIC CO. on it
. The starter on my riding mower died the first day of lawn mowing, and I never clicked with that……maybe it’s a sign. 
. Great advice from everyone, as usual, great minds and teamwork. It’s nice weather here, I’ll slide under (at least as far as my belly) tonight and pull that baby off the engine. Unlike my Pontiac van, it’s easy to get to.Took some pics of the new top installed and some of the other areas showing my new seat bases, cargo net and metal runners, as well as the folding luggage rack (39 bucks) that makes into a seat on the spare. My rack is black, but you can get them in chrome for about the same $. I took the pics with my cell phone and now need to email them to myself. It was the day it would not turn over, the day with the new top installation and I was ready to show it off.
James
Rich,
I just now got it…DUH. I’m running slow today.
‘Hope all TURNS in your favor’
You funny guy.James
James,
Hang in there. These are anything but perfect vehicles.
I drove my TD Replica exclusively for the last 3 days. When my clutch went (See the latest on Rich’s Ride), I jumped back in my usual car (2004 Acura 3.5 RL). Darn near went through the windshield when I hit the power brakes! The (power) steering felt disconnected and I couldn’t “feel” the road. I love my commuter car, but I also have really enjoyed feeling the “old school” technology once again. My Roots! We do this because it’s fun. So you just fix it and ride the heck out of it until it breaks again.
Hopefully we can help with the “fix it” part.Rich
Update.
I love the ease of working on this car and engine. It only took 5 minutes to drop the starter (on my hand
). Ringo and Rich, it was fine, great thought tho. The engine still will not turn. Mark, I removed the valve cover and went after the valves. Everyone of them worked perfectly. The entire area under the cover looks like new. Spotless and everything coated with nice clean oil, I change the oil and filter often, so there is only a few miles on this oil. Every valve pressed down and returned without problem, each one glided smoothly. Arms, everything perfect. When I found out this particular engine was non-destructing I did not remove the head when the belt broke, but may later if needed. Phase 2 will be to open the timing belt cover and check that out, and then remove the belt after that. I will look at the clutch plate first. I had a roadster (still got it) where the clutch plate came apart and jammed everything up. That 1967 car had an inspection port to the clutch area, I do not see such port on this engine, Ford 2.3L 1974. I liked the port because you can take a visual on the clutch wear. More as I move ahead. Thanks guys, I really appreciate this great knowledge base here.
. I hope to have this solved by Sunday. No particular reason, just setting a deadline for myself. Thanks a million everyone.James
Yeah…what happened? Larry Murphy and I were wondering about that when I was in NC a few weeks ago?
Sorry guys,
I meant to reply to Rich, and my brain must have slipped into neutral and I forgot. I have left the engine open. It bugs me that I do not have an absolute answer to why the engine locked up, and why it suddenly wasn’t. I have cleaned up everything, repainted the pan, put in a new oil pump since the engine was open anyway. Yesterday, I was still able to turn the crankshaft by hand easily. It just glides without any feel of resistance, pistons moving nicely, nice oil film inside the cylinder walls below the pistons. It has me puzzled and I decided to leave the engine accessible until I have it solved without any doubt in my mind. So she rests on stands until I solve the riddle.
Thanks for checking.
James
James, Buddy,
Don’t make us resort to a “TD Replica Intervention”! There is a point where you have to put the car back together, get behind the wheel and DRIVE!!!!
The seasons, like our lives, are short. (This is the best I can do for an inspirational speech. Other members, with eloquent words of wisdom and motivation, please step up to the podium.),
All the Best!
Rich
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