Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › VW Based Kits › "EMMA" 2232cc BCW "Build Sheet" revisited
- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 6 months ago by edward ericson.
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June 4, 2014 at 10:17 pm #235209
Hey folks, I’m sure you heard the story about the farmers standing around speculating about how many teeth are in a horse’s mouth…and then a small boy asks “why don’t you just count ‘um?….”
…well I have been missing a key piece of information on my 2332 engine build — WHAT IS THE CAM??? —Roy and I were going to try to measure the amount of lift by placing a dial indicator onto one of the rocker arms and then rotating the engine…and then trying to look up a cam with that spec…and then I read a SAMBA post that said…”pull the oil pump and read the cam info off of the end of the cam shaft…….Well, we did and I now know that I have what is fondly called a “stump-puller” cam. It is an off-road ENGLE VZ25. According to the listing at AIRCOOLED.NETThe Engle VZ25 is a Stump Pulling cam for Off-Road engines. It is designed for 1.1 rockers ONLY. Specs are .429″ Cam Lift, .470″ Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers) 286 degrees of advertised duration, and 256 degrees of duration at .050″, on a 108 Lobe Center.The VZ Series of cams have a short valvetrain life due to super-fast ramps and high valve lift. Dual Springs are required! This cam has good bottom end, with more all around performance than the Engle 110 due to more valve lift. Ported head are strongly recommended, since the more headflow you have the better this cam will work! This cam runs from idle to 6000 RPM.
Works best with Compression from 8-8.5:1
Well, we found out that this car has single valve springs, not dual — although they may be single heavy duty…and we just assume that since someone did all of this work on the engine that the heads are ported.
So now I have a car that would do well pulling stumps at the local National Forest, or maybe even just do ok cruising down the road…
As of now, here’s what is in the engine (that we know of)
2232cc engine measured 200 hp on a water dyno in 2005
CB Performance 82mm CRANKSHAFT
MAHLE 94mm Flat PISTONS
CHROMOLY 5.5 inch RODS
Dual Dellorto DRLA 45 carbs with velocity stacks and Dellorto air filters
Merged 1 5/8″ header
“PFat Boy” free flow (a.k.a. LOUD) muffler
TRANSWEST VW Type 1 Transaxle
Kennedy 1200 pound clutch
Cooltin
Stainless pushrod tubes
aftermarket flywheel VWH-31110527 @ 79.99 (in 2005 dollars)
Bosch 009 dist
Pertronix electronic ignition module
SCAT pulley with sand seal
and last bit of data: ENGLE VZ25 CAM with .429″ Cam Lift, .470″ Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers) 286 degrees of advertised duration, and 256 degrees of duration at .050″, on a 108 Lobe Center.
…and now I have to go out and find a new gasket for that oil pump we removed…and then I have to ask myself “what do I do with this stump puller???????…I guess drive it ’till the lobes wear off of the cam and the rockers wear out ?????
Discovery is always a fun thing to have happen on a hot and humid Wednesday afternoon…..now about those horse’s teeth…
June 4, 2014 at 10:40 pm #260495oh, I forgot — I also thought I had “elephant feet” valve adjusters on each valve — as Kentt suggested
But it turns out that I have SCAT ball adjusters: SCAT Swivel Ball Style Valve Adjusters (Courier Adjusting Screws), are MUCH easier on the valve than standard valve adjusting screws, especially for you guys running non-stock camshafts or 1.25 rockers! There is a captured ball with a flat side to keep even contact on the valve.These are a quality product, NOT CHINESE GARBAGE!
IMPORTANT! We do not recommend these for use on hydraulic lifter engines, FAILURE INCIDENCE IS HIGH!. These adjusters need “valve lash” to give oil the chance to get in there and lubricate, with no clearance they can gall and fail quickly!
WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THESE WITH LIFTS OVER .450″! You risk “peening” the cap on the swivel during the over travel angle, which means no more swivel, and failure soon!
Here’s a picture of the ball adjusters:
Here’s a picture of the “Elephant Foot” adjusters used on Porsche engines:
Turns out that the ball adjusters on #3 cyl were mis-set on the ball, and then when they rotated to the flat once the engine started, they made the valve clearance around .030″ vice .006″ Talk about “clarity-clack”
So now I have to worry about the valve adjusters being prone to peening as well as the warning to NOT use them with lifts over .450″ and that they are PRONE TO FAILURE….
WHAT FUN A BIG ENGINE IS…
if nothing else, it is keeping me in reading material (sometimes thanks to Ed and his links) and keeping my “gray matter” engaged…
June 4, 2014 at 11:18 pm #260496Geez — that makes me wonder that the builder was thinking. Must have been the sand drags…
That kind of a high-lift, short durations cam, and single-spring heads doesn’t make much sense.That much lift with such fast ramps makes dual springs almost essential to prevent valve float….My recommendation is to keep the RPMs down close to that of a stock engine…. and keep your fingers crossed.I’m not sure that I would assume ported and polished heads, if he was designing it for lower RPMs. He may have just gone for the biggest valves and largest cast ports that he could get — porting and polishing really pays dividends at high RPM, and that is not what he built if for, it sounds like…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...June 5, 2014 at 2:11 pm #260497Ditto. I’d turn the tach to show 6k at 12 o’clock but hardly ever get there. Shift at 5k unless a virtuous woman’s honor is at stake.
June 5, 2014 at 5:10 pm #260498Good idea on turning the Tach — think I’ll go out and do that now while I’m waiting for the new sand seal and pulley to arrive…
My plan is to monitor and control my RPMs and enjoy the ride!!!!Worse comes to worst, it can be a rebuild project this winterJune 5, 2014 at 8:34 pm #260499Your cam specs explain the engine’s beastly feel when you put your foot down. FUN!! I’d go with a high zddp oil in that one. Stock motors can live without it but yours sounds like the kind of engine the zddp was made for.
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