empi front disc brake kit

[Dbanta]

I just bought an empi front disk brake conversion kit. It uses my existing spindles. My question is, has anyone installed one of these? My second question is, can I use the standard(in my case 1969) races and wheel bearings? In the istructions it says to reuse the ones in my drum brake. They also suggest I buy the empi wheel bearings and races. Thanks for your help.

In wine there is truth, in water health.

[edward ericson]

Might as well get new bearings while you’re at it. The Muir book has detailed instructions on how to tap out the old races, and tap new ones in with a hammer, a piece of 2×4 and the right-sized socket. Obviously if you have a press you can use that. 

I installed Empi disks just before Carlisle (mine came with the spindles; not sure what the difference is) and my downfall was adjusting the bearing lash. I needed to shim my calipers in, but didn’t know it, so I adjusted them tight on the caliper–but loose on the spindle. This is how I became expert at changing out front wheel bearings. Don’t be like me! 

edsnova2015-11-16 21:36:09

[Dbanta]

Thanks Ed. I did read your previous post on you trials and tribulations regarding you kit installation. In fact I read the instructions with you post in mind and looked for the shimming instructions. I went ahead and ordered new bearings and races. Looking forward to having discs in the front.

In wine there is truth, in water health.

[Bill Hartwick]

My had front disk brakes and drum on the back. I may check on putting disk brakes on the back also.

[Toller]

I proceeded with the install of the disk brake conversion kit yesterday and was pleasantly surprised at how easy the whole process was.  Until I went to bolt on the wheel.  Turns out the caliber casting is proud of the face of the rotor and as such will not allow the wheel to turn.  So I have the option of buying a wheel spacer and longer lug bolts to clear the casting nub but this will mean the wheel/tire will extend out further than it already does from the wheel well and I will have to avoid every bump or pothole in the road to avoid the tire coming in contact with the fender.  Option two is to advance purchase of wheels and tires with 4″+ backset to bring tire into wheel well and ensure rim choice clears the brake casting.  Option 1 is $100 and option 2 is $1000+, so choice should be easy one to make but what this demonstrates is that nothing is ever as simple as it first appears. 

Toller2016-02-25 10:03:04

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[secretagentcat]

Ive been told that when you convert the front drums to disk that it is also a good idea to install a narrowed adjustable front end with dropped spindles. My mechanic said that it would also let me get rid of the box of rocks that was used to lower the front end. The narrowed front end would offset the few inches that the new disks add to the spacing in the fenders.
Let me know what you think.

[Toller]

Rick so now you are telling me I have a third option. I think option 2 with a bag of rocks will be the most practical. Or I go back to option 0 which would be to reinstall the drum brakes and just consider the conversion kit a sunk cost until I want to go for new wheels, tires, narrow beam and associated front suspension hardware. My wife keeps asking why I am buying all the new stuff for the car when it was driveable when I bought it. Clearly, women do not understand the primal urge that men have to improve on their toys

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[John Simion]

I have the EMPI front discs and the narrowed front beam. The mechanic told me that it was narrowed to the max, but I don’t know how much that is/was. Certainly never indicated that the discs would widen anything, and it’s much narrower now than it was pre-anything. It makes a nice realistic stance, but I use 165/15 tires on OEM 4.5 VW wheels and they rub the frame (?) slightly in sharp turns. I say ? because what they rub is red, like the original color of the car, so it may not be frame. I can live with that and may be able to fix it. As for the disc brakes, they stop well but two mechanics have had a hard time getting them adjusted evenly and they also screech horribly. Another item on the to-do list. In hindsight, I wouldn’t mess with the disc brakes — not necessary to narrow the beam, and fresh drum linings should get near-equal stopping power.johnsimion2016-02-25 15:21:04

[secretagentcat]

I think that the disks will be best. I had drums on a previous kit car and went to hit the brakes when a car in front of me lost their hood. My car swerved into oncoming traffic and I narrowly missed an accident. She got new disk brakes the next week.
As for the new front end, my mechanic said that the disk kit would move my tires out a couple of inches and they would rub against the fenders. Therefore the adjustable narrowed beams would cure that and let me adjust the stance. The drop spindles would lower the front end about two inches so i could loose the ballast box and have more room in the front for tools and stuff. He also said that it would make for a smoother ride.
As for the wife, the next time she questions you about why youre spending money on a running car, just give her a posesed crazy look and ask her if she remembers the movie Christeen?

[John Simion]

If my wife questions me about why I’m spending money on a running car, I simply show her the Macy’s bill.  Problem solved.

[edward ericson]

You could send the calipers back? Mine do not interfere with the wheels; yours shouldn’t either. Tell Cip1 or whoever what your problem is and see if they can make it right.

As for the narrowed beam–I almost got one and chickened out. Regret not getting the 2-inch narrowed version when I went to the adjustable beam. 

But the 2-inch drop spindles are not necessary or, imho, advised. 

What you want to do is put the front end together with a stock, or slightly lowered, stance. Install the beam with one caster shim on each side of the bottom beam, and assemble the beam with most–if not all–of the small leaf springs deleted. 

Doing this will reduce the spring rate of your front suspension, which is a good thing because that front end is substantially lighter than it was when your car was a steel Beetle. The reduced spring rate will make the car ride much better, and handle better, and it will put your ride height just about where you want it.

The use-less-leaf-spring method works equally well with the full-sized beam and has been known to work even in stock, non-adjustable beams. 

It is, imho, smarter than a box of rocks.

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