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I know this is a subject that gets beat to death, and I have researched it ad finitum on the vw forums, etc. What I wondering though was if anyone has any insight into the engine compartments in the Fiberfab Migi vs. cooling. I keep reading about sealing the engine compartment as one part of a successful engine tin installation, but in my MiGi the engine is essentially open all around it. It has most of the tin I think and I’m trying figure out if any of it is missing. The temp runs about 230-240 which I know is way too high.
Appreciate any help
Where is the temp gauge sender located? If it’s under a head bolt or spark plug (as most air-cooled temp gauges) It will read those 230-240 temps. these are not liquid cooled engines and are clearanced as such when machined.
I’d be more concerned with oil temperature in an air-cooled engine if I were you. Plugged oil coolers are the biggest VW run-hot culprits.
If you have all the OEM style tin and hoses connected properly, the oil cooler is good and it’s got enough oil, you’re good. Don’t worry about sealing the engine compartment…every see a VW powered dune buggy or sand rail? No sealed compartments there.
Pink,
Thanks. The tin is chrome that the PO put on the engine so I’m in the process of determining if all the correct stuff is there. I know the thermostat is gone but I don’t know about the flaps, etc. The temp is coming from the oil sending unit. Also, the reason I asked about the compartment is that on a bug or a buggy the air can escape but in the Fiberfab compartment it can only go out the bottom.
On these VW’s the best “tin” is the OEM stuff. I suggest you use an OEM “doghouse” and cylinder covers (have the cylinder #’s stamped on them). I’d also invest in those little “baffles” that sit on top of each cylinder jug and split the air travelling over the jug fins.
If you are not running heater boxes, be sure to plug the holes in the doghouse that attach the hoses that go to the heater boxes.
Use 20w-50 oil and if you really want to get your hands dirty, install one of those deep sump kits that hold another quart of oil.
If you have just the tin I mentioned, you will not overheat. The other tin that covers the exhaust, pulley area is not absolutely necessary, but doesn’t hurt either.
Keep in mind to check the cooling turbine fan when you change the tin. They develop hairline cracks around the center hub. Not a bad time to replace it with a new one…your’s is probably 40+ years old anyway. they’re not expensive.
Most important again is clogged oil coolers. Be sure yours is not clogged or in need of Lipitor or a stent!
I modified all the VW’s I built for full flow oiling with a remote filter. Big improvement to aid cooling. It requires tapping the block. I did it when I had the engines apart.
I changed my timing from 25 deg BTDC to 32 deg BTDC and it seems to run cooler. We’ve had some cooler days and that helped. It runs consistently around 225 now. I’m still looking into ways to bring it down even more. Full-flowing is something I might try this winter when I have it stored in the garage.
Synthetic oil will help too. Lot’s of old school people tell you not to use it, but that’s because they never tried it or they are cheap (my opinion).
I’ve been using synthetic lubricants for a couple decades and they only get better. Organic lubricants don’t remotely compare.
You could even install a remote oil cooler and put a switched small electric fan on it when it’s converted to full flow oiling.
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