Home › Forums › MGTD Kit Cars › VW Based Kits › fender removal
- This topic has 8 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 1 month ago by
dave clark.
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April 24, 2014 at 11:20 am #235169
i need some help please. I am not the owner of this 1975 daytona MIGI vw based kit but i am Painting it for someone. My question is about front fender removal. According to the manual the bolts go through the gas tank bib with nuts on the back side. Looking under the car there is no way to get to them due to the flat pan bottom. Am i correct in thinking that the gas tank should be removed? will i then be able to access the nuts and bolt from inside the bib? Is it hollow? or am i way off base and there is an easier way? I hate to think that the body needs to be lifted from the chassis! I would appreciate anyone with this knowledge that could help me out ! Thanks !!
April 24, 2014 at 12:02 pm #260258on my Daytona,there is a large void under the gas tank. I don’y remember but it is likely that there are nuts
in thereApril 24, 2014 at 2:22 pm #260259The fender bolts to the body and side cowls. If you remove the gas tank you should be able to get to the nuts. Here’s the fender installation procedure in the assembly manual. Fender installation is on page 27.
https://tdreplica.com/Manuals/FiberFab/MiGiII/MiGi_II_VW_1of3.pdf
newkitman2014-04-24 14:23:26
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackApril 25, 2014 at 10:46 am #260260Thanks guys !!! i looked and looked but it just seemed to me that the gas tank would need to come out…was hoping it didn’t ! the “void” under the tank was what i was hoping someone would say. I’ll get started on it this weekend…Thanks Again !! this car is still in it’s gel coat since 1975 !! alot of rock chips and a few rattle can touch ups but other than that it’s in great shape…she’s finally gonna get painted after 40 years !
April 25, 2014 at 4:44 pm #260261We love to see before and after pictures
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
April 28, 2014 at 10:03 am #260262if anyone else has the same dilema….removal of the gas tank is the way it is done. Tank comes out real easy and there are three nuts per side to be removed, the other two are in the cockpit. As a side note…i guess weight is needed up front to steady the front end at highway speeds….whoever built this one…used cement blocks and bricks ! are sand bags the prefered method ? how much weight is needed ? as far as before and after pictures, I will try…not too good at downloading pictures
April 28, 2014 at 10:44 am #260263The weight is not needed if the front spring rate is reduced.
April 28, 2014 at 11:59 am #260264And the weight is recommended if the front spring rate is not reduced.
Back in the dark ages, most of the kit manufacturers recommended adding weight to the front end. It helps the suspension work and does help a little to balance the very poor front/rear weight distribution. In fact, Classic Roadster’s Duchess kit included a fiberglss box, that sits behind the grill shell. You fill it with about 150 pounds of sand and seal the top.In this more enlightened age, we know that a vastly superior approach is to remove most (or all) of the small bars from both of the VW’s front torsion tubes. Seach the site forum and you will find extensive discourse on how this is done.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
May 7, 2014 at 1:34 pm #260265been on vacation so sorry for the late post….Thanks everyone for the help ! I will let the owner know what i have learned and let him make the decision. I suspect it will be sand bags…which is better than cement blocks !
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