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  • #233348
    ray10
    Participant

    @ray10

    Hi. I have a 1953 classic kit. I’m having trouble getting the battery box to meet up with the floor pan ,this is on a chevy frame ,I’m woundering if there needs to be a spacer put under the body to raise it up to match the battery box ?    

    TDREPLICA Map

    http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48

    #243668
    Dan Rosa
    Participant

    @dan-r

      Ray OK ,,,this post answered my question under the general post . As your question ..mine also a chevy powered kit ,the frame is not chevy . but is built by F/F . keep the body as low as you can to the battery box if I was to do that part on my car I would keep it all low .. I would lower the B/box mine was all glassed in when I got her  she is 3 inches to tall in the front  check the manuals the left of the home  page  Dan

    #243669
    Mark Hendrickson
    Participant

    @pink-mg

    Dan R is correct. None of these front engine/RWD TD Replica’s are on an OEM manufacturer’s frame. Both the Pinto/Mustang II and Chevette/Pontiac T-1000 were Uni-body cars and had no frames.

    The frames for these replica’s were all provided by the kit manufacturers, Classic Motor Carriage/FiberFab, Classic Roadsters Ltd, British Coach Works, etc. they are usually made using .090″-.125″ thick walled recatangular, mild steel, seamed tubing (cheap). Most were jig made by sub-contractors to the kit manufacturer’s specs.

    The frames were purpose built for the TD’s to use the drivetrain (engine/trans/rear) and suspension from the “donor” car. In some cases, the fuel tank, driveshaft, wiring harness, radiator and some other donor car parts were used to.

    So, when people say “my TD is on a Chevy or Ford frame” they are incorrect. It’s a purpose built frame using the Ford/Chevy donor parts or kit supplied parts that make up a rolling chassis for the TD replica body to sit on.

    #243670
    ray10
    Participant

    @ray10

    Ok, So I need to cut the frame work for the battery box down  to match the two panels . this might help me with the steering wheel because it seams a little to high.

    TDREPLICA Map

    http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48

    #243671
    Larry Murphy
    Participant

    @larry-murphy

     If you are referring to the metal frame work that the fiberglass panels attach to ,I would be very cautious . The fiber glass panels may not be in proper position.,The steering column can be lowered by making a bracket if necessary. Unless the frame was built to the wrong measurments,something else may be wrong.

    #243672
    ray10
    Participant

    @ray10

     Any chance one of you might have that measurement, so I can double check what I have. I’m only a 1 1/4 short.

    TDREPLICA Map

    http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48

    #243673
    ray10
    Participant

    @ray10

    Hi, Can any one give me a picture of the drivers side where the pan meets the battery box .I can’t get the two to match up.

                                           thanks

    TDREPLICA Map

    http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48

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