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Does anyone have these on their MGTDr? I’m thinking about it.
Any input would be appreciated.Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
Hi Vicenç,
I do not. And to be honest, I don’t recall seeing any VW based TDRs with stiffeners installed.That said, I can see how they might be beneficial.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Although I never used them in my rebuilt Karmann Ghia, I have seen a couple of Ghias with them but never a Beetle or TDr. There is some potential benefit but I’m not engineer savey enough to figure it all out. I wouldn’t think it would impact side-to-side flex all that much. Our TDrs are pretty solid front to back. My .02 worth.newkitman2015-09-03 18:30:56
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackI could swear someone here bought them. Can’t remember who though.
My question is yours: will they work with our bodies? Mine is bolted down through what I think is the same holes these stiffeners would use. But the nuts are underneath, whereas the stiffeners seem to want the nuts on top, where–in my car’s case, at least–you’d not be able to get a wrench on them without cutting holes all along the inside of the fiberglass.This would not necessary preclude their use–just complicate it some.I bought a set, but have not installed them yet. I just put the TDr in my new garage today, for the first time, so hopefully soon, soon…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Kent T, how do they attach to the undercarriage?
Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
They bolt through the floorplan. The bottom wall of the square tubing has a large hole in it, while the top wall has a normal sized bolt hole above it. A thick machined aluminum spacer with a marching bolt hole goes snugly up inside that large hole in the bottom of the tubing, and a longer mounting bolt goes through it. That spacer just fits into the larger hole, keeping the bottom of the tubing stiff, while completely filling the center void, and allows you to tighten it without collapsing the tubing. Those pads on the front just bolt directly through the floorplan, in front of the body and Napoleon’s Hat.
Though I haven’t installed them, I think you can run the bolts down from the top, or up from the bottom. They came complete with all hardware and instructions, though I haven’t opened that package.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...BTW, they are intended to reduce torsional twist of the floorplan – not simply ftont to rear bending or bowing – the center tunnel withstands that. It’s the twisting force exerted on one front wheel or the other during hard cornering that they are trying to control.
Stock Bug and Ghia convertibles used larger sheet-metal stiffeners similar to these, to add back the stiffness that removing the steel roof and side pillars took away. They simply make the frame more solid. Many fiberglass buggy builders, e.g. Manx, will build their own floorpans with tubes around the perimeter, and tubes down the center instead of the tunnel.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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