Grill Shell Assembly

[John Simion]

Hi, I just got back my grill shell and slats from the chrome plater and reassembled the entire grill on the repaired and repainted fiberglass backing. I wanted to share some advice and ask some, too.

The original builder had drilled through the original chrome (stainless?) slats and some were dented, so I replaced them with the slats from MG Magic, which are only zinc plated and need chrome or paint. I opted for chrome again. Before taking them to the plater or taking the backing to the painter, I pre-fit everything. The top corners on the metal cross bar are very sharp, so I ground them off as well. So far, so good.

When I got everything back from the plater, I reassembled everything relatively easy. Now here is the advice and request for advice … I didn’t bring the upper corners on the cross bar enough. When I reassembled the grill, the corner of the cross bar from the slats pushed a bulge or outward dimple on my beautifully rechromed grill shell. Therefore my advice is … if installing new slats from MG Magic, GRIND THE UPPER CORNERS OF THE CROSS BAR A LOT!!!

Obviously I am very disappointed and mad at myself, but what do I do now? The outward dimple isn’t that bad (1/4″ long and barely above the surface) but it caused the fresh chrome to crack, and peeling is inevitable. Disassembling and rechroming would be both cost and time prohibitive. I could cut out the cracked chrome to limit the damage and even grind off the dimple with my Dremel, but what kind of repair to the chrome would be least noticeable? I have some chrome paint but it really is just silver. Better than nothing but not really a good fix. I also have some “Bare Metal” (like gold leaf, but chrome with adhesive backing) that I use on models. This stuff could make a fairly nice repair but I wonder about its durability for outside use, especially in the 110 degree temps here in Vegas. Does anybody have any experience with this? Could the grill shell be painted with clear coat after I repair the chrome (so the Bare Metal would be under the clear coat and thus presumably safe, or can you even apply clear coat to chrome?

Wife just says to ignore it, it isn’t that bad, and it really isn’t “that” bad … but I know I will always see it and be fixated on it and it just irks me, so I feel like I have to do something. Does anybody have any other suggestions?johnsimion2015-08-19 11:11:40

[Mike Schumacher]

here’s some rare advice – listen to your wife. More realistically soon you will make another inconsequential mistake and the upside is you’ll forget this onejuneybug2015-08-20 14:41:55

[edward ericson]

I second that.

[billnparts]

Murphy’s law dictates that any small repair will, undoubtedly, turn into a large repair.

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[Paul Mossberg]

I’ve been struggling with what “the ruight thing to do” is on this one.

And while all those that said listen to yoru wife are not mistaken…they may not be correct either.

 

I think this is one of those deal with it now…or deal with it later issues.

 

A paint like Alclad or the chrome foil that modelers use may improve the appearance for now. But they are not permanent solutions. And I really suspect the foil won’t hold up in the real world.

 

The chrome is cracked. That is only going to get worse. And what irks you now may be a real thorn in your side a year from now.

 

I made some errors when I built my car. The ones I discovered in time, I corrected. A couple were not apparent until the car was complete. And to correct the most serious error, I would have had to disassemble half the car. I chose not to. 33 years later I still regret that decision.

 

If you can swing it, I would pull the grill and rechrome it. But that’s an easier decision when it’s not my money.

 

 

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[John Simion]

Rechroming took three weeks last time, and the body shop wants to finish the car and get it out of their shop, so I decided to take my wife’s advice and let it go.  For now will probably “fix”this spot with chrome paint and clearcoat.  I know it’s not going to be perfect but maybe it will be good enough that I can forget about it, and maybe it won’t get worse since it’s so dry here and it’s going to be garaged full time.  At least, I hope.  Realistically, my wife is right … most people would probably never notice it … the brand new shiny British Racing Green metallic paint is pretty dazzling compared to a 1/4” bad spot at the corner of the grill shell.

If it gets worse, or if it still bugs me after a couple of months of driving, I’ll probably will grind down the bump and rechrome.  There are a lot of other upgrades and little things I might do with this car anyway after I get a chance to actually use it …  but right now I just have a psychological need to get it finished and out on the road and rekindle my enthusiasm for it.  This has just been dragging on too long.  I was so hot for it when I bought it in running condition off eBay in October 2014 and since then it has been either torn up in my own garage, at the mechanic, now at the body shop, next at the upholsterer, then back to a different mechanic to fix the crap that the incompetent first mechanic messed up, then finally I get to register and drive it!  Right now I am tired of second-guessing myself and running out of patience.

[Paul Mossberg]

Sounds like a good plan.

Hang in there John. All the angst building up during the build will disappear 10 seconds into your first drive!

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

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