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Ran into a problem last Sunday – best driving day of the year here – all of a sudden no clutch.
Very soft pedal and did nothing – thought it to be my cable, but checked that tonight along w/ all the replica push rod stuff and everything seems to be working.
Thinking now maybe the throwout bearing forks are broken?
Any other ideas before I pull the engine?
I was having problems keeping it in 1st gear ( would pop out sometimes ) lately so maybe the forks were bent or partially broken?
Did not hear anything when it happened – only no clutch at the next shift.
A broken arm spring would still allow shifts – correct?
Thanks for any help,
DaleDale, about 2 hours ago, FEDEX delivered my new Sachs clutch kit. My engine is coming out for an exploratory. My clutch has been slipping and suddenly has gotten worse. I’m thinking maybe I need to replace the engine or Transaxle seal and the disk got saturated with oil. New throwout bearing, pilot bearing, disk and pressure plate going in (at least).
Regarding your problem. I can’t see how your popping out of gear would have anything to do with the clutch failing. It sounds like two separate problems to me.Once you get the car moving, it is possible to drive a car and shift without a clutch. However, it’s very tricky and stopping requires shifting into neutral. Then getting going again is even trickier unless you happened to stop on a downhill grade. No matter, it is rough on your synchros and not recommended. The clutch cable on my 911s broke once and I managed to drive her home in traffic with no clutch. The guys behind me were really mad because I was going 5 mph waiting for the lights to change.You might want to check your cable as the least expensive and easiest thing to fix that may cause a lost clutch. It might have broken or the attachment on the arm slipped. Good luck here. Else, you’re gonna have to pull the engine.I fear that your pop out of gear problem may only be fixed with a transaxle rebuild. If so, that’s a super bummer ($$). You might want to check that your gearshift mechanism is not so worn that the shifter is not putting it fully into first. (Any long shot is worth it if it might save a transaxle rebuild.)Royal2013-08-09 20:29:41
Could be the forks but I’m with Roy–could be the cable is broken but has a few strands (or half the strands) still holding tight. I’d check that first, if you’ve not already.
If it turns out to be the cable, I have some type of VW clutch cable in my tool box from 30-35 years ago when I was playing with bugs, sand rails, baha bugs etc. Really know idea of what it fits, but I can measure the length to see if it matches. Your welcome to it for the shipping cost if you want it.
I will replace the cable since it has been in there for 10 plus years or more but don’t think the cable is the problem – it pulls the arm forward and little if any resistance – to me I don’t think it would pull the arm forward if broken and still have resistance. i don’t think the bearing is being pushed out – hence my thought of broken forks – anyway hope everyone is right so i don’t need to pull the engine.
Roy – you may be right about the trannie having issues in 1st and I may try an untested unit out of my speedster build so I don’t have to pull the engine soon again. That means I may go to a 914 5 speed in my Speedster ( have one in the garage ), but that may be a chore to get working.
Montie,
I just purchased a cable here to install, but thanks for the offer.
Spent a few minutes today to remove the cable at the rear ( cable looks good ) and started playing w/ the clutch arm – it moves all over the place and w/ no resistance once I removed the return spring.
Seems very loose and slides back and forth as well. Either fork broke or the throwout bearing came loose.
Engine will need to come out.
Any way to test a transmission that you know nothing about?
Anyone have a unused tranny laying around?Schu: I am looking for a rebuildable late (post 1973, single cover) trans case. Mine is a ’69 stocker and I plan to be done with it after this season. If I see a good trans in my travels I’ll alert you.
All that said, think your clutch fork diagnosis is probably it. Good luck.Schu,
I don’t have my engine installed yet and the transaxle is easily accessible. I’ll check out mine when I get home from work, see what gives and let you know. I’ll attach a few photos as well.Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackSchu,
I checked the operation of my clutch arm and everything is tight and has resistance without the engine installed. But my clutch fork assembly is new. Hope this somehow.Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackWell guys I need some more help
Working today – removed the old tranny and prepped the untested tranny from my Speedster project and later realized the transmission is a later 73 plus that uses a 3 hole front lower mount vs the two hole chassis I have in my TD. I found an adapter on line at CPI 1 and aircooled.net for about 30.00, but they want anywhere from 30.00 plus for shipping to receive by next week end – I wanted to finish it next Friday.
Anyway – anyone have a 3 hole to 2 hole mount lying around I can purchase or point me to a better price including shipping?
Thanks for any help,
DaleLast update:
New tranny ( untested – now tested ) installed w/ engine and everything else finished up.Did my test yesterday and everything worked great – did not even need to adjust my stick shift.Very happy – no popping out of first any more and good to go for Alan’s run and VA Fall season – best time of the year.Thanks for the support
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