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The shift lever on my London Roadster with VW engine and transmission has what I call a very sloppy shifter. It is no where near the precision and short throw of my Honda S2000, but I don’t like the really loose and wiggly feel I get while shifting. There seems to be way too much play in each slot. Can I replace that with something tighter, or is there something I can do to get a better feel?
A lot depends on whats causing the sloppiness. There is a shift rod bushing that fits into the bracket inside the tunnel that the shift rod fits through. If that’s worn or broken you can remove the shift lever, and disconnect the shift rod and replace the bushing. On the transaxle end of the shift rod, underneath the shift linkage cover at the rear of the tunnel is a coupling that connects to the transaxle and that may be going bad. Replacement parts for both of those run about $10-$15 each. More time consuming than pricey. If it’s the shift lever, there’s really not a whole lot you can do other than replace the shift lever. Some of the older stock VW shift levers had a rivet and pin on the ball that fit into the shift lever socket and the rivet heat would wear out. The newer ones just have the ball on the end and it gets worn out over time. I’d check the shift coupling and lever and if that doesn’t fix the problem, then go with a new shifter. Good luck and let us know what you found.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackIf the bushing and coupler are both ok you can purchase a short shift kit (again not expensive) that will greatly inhance your shifting expirience. You can also purchase an aftermarket shifter from a variety of manufacturers. Empi and Bugpack are a couple manufacturers that come to mind. They are more expensive than the short shift kit but are an easy bolt on inhancement as well.
Allen and Tom are right on target. The most likely cause for a really loose gear shift lever is the bushing on the shift rod has fallen apart. This bushing is about an inch and a half to the rear of the shift mount hole in the center tunnel.
Check this thread for instruction on replacing the shift rod bushing….
https://tdreplica.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=95&KW =bushing
PMOSSBERG40830.4377777778
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Not a great picture, but this shows the bracket inside the center tunnel and the bushing that likely needs to be replaced:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Here is another good article on bushing replacement:
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/bushing_replace.htm
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
My last post…read the entire thread, lot’s of practicla tips and tricks in this thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=157519
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I lied…one other comment…
On an untouched Beetle, the bracket inside the tunnel is spot welded to the tunnel. The two bolts on the bracket on top of the tunnel, which holds your shift lever in, bolt through the bracket inside the tunnel.
The shift lever has been relocated from it’s stock location. In doing so it is VERY possible the builder did not spot weld the bracket to the tunnel. I know I didn’t!
When I replaced everything, I held the internal bracket up using a couple fancy bent wire coat hangars. Once the bolts were started, I pulled the hangars and tightened it all down. A major PIA!
Just be aware of this. When you remove the shift lever, go slow. Loosen everything up and try to check inside the tunnel. If the bracket is loose inside the tunnel, figure out a way to support it before you completely remove the two bolts.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
And by the way, once you are done…the VW shifter will still feel loose and sloppy comapred to your Honda S2000!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Here’s a good illustration (complete with illustrations) of that phenom.
Remember, stuff I do is mostly a warning on how not to do things.
God gave us all a purpose Ed.
It’s just that most of us never listen.
Apparently you have!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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