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I know this is a silly question, however I found the group doing my searches to inspect a possible purchase. I am looking at purchasing a running but needing some aesthetic adjustment mg replica with a 350. However, I wanted someone who has expertise in them take a look at these pictures. I am aware there is some basic bodywork and interior work I will need to do… but from a driveability and base on the pictures…. what are your thoughts. Is there anything glaring or that I should look for when I go visit it on Saturday?
https://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/vehicle/tpa/2553/1983-volkswagen-mg-replica
It looks like a fun piece. Lots of cosmetic things to address, but that’s minor. The framework looks solid besides looking like I welded it. As long as the welds hold it doesn’t matter what they look like. A road test would be necessary to see how/if it flexes under all that power. The 9″ out back with the 4 wheel disc brakes is a good addition. I think if you like it, grab it.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Counterpoint: Run (do not walk) as far away as possible.
- We do not see the chassis. It was made by a guy is all we know. He let it go. Did he know how to build chassis? How to weld? Unknown. The time for driving a bed frame with 400 horsepower on public roads is past.
- The headers are amazing in that they’re routed away from the starter. Anyone who ever had a 350 with headers knows why that is. BUT! He put them over the brake booster and right behind the ignition. Three bad things will now happen:
- Heat from those headers will blast into the cockpit at all times. It will not be good except maybe in Minnesota on New Year’s Day.
- Heat from those headers will boil the brake fluid. Well, maybe not…but more than likely, they will heat the brake master cylinder to a temperature that brake master cylinders are not normally used to. If the car actually can be operated for more than a half hour without overheating the driver or the engine, that will be bad, but
- Heat from the header will fry the HEI module. This will very likely be the saving grace, as the car will stop running before the brake fluid heats up enough to make it unstoppable.
- None of the cosmetic things matter unless you want the car to look even faintly like it might be an MG. The man who built it did not: he wanted to win a drag race. It is possible he did! Winning a drag race is what this car was made to do. If that is what you’d like to do, you might profitably ignore all I just wrote, inspect the chassis for design flaws and decent weld penetration, fix anything non-kosher there, and try to get someone at an NHRA to let you run. I predict more welding.
There was a guy on this board some years ago who bought a small block Chevy powered TD and took it to Arizona. He never, to my knowledge, was able to make it fun. Brake booster problems, overheating, etc.
Again: unless you want to enjoy the car strictly in quarter mile intervals, pass.
@billnparts and @edwardericson
Thank you so much for the feedback. With that said…. here is my other option
https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/4066-tpa/1952-mg-td-replica
Looks like a better bet. I see a bit of rust on the pan in one of the usual spots. If the engine is right, maybe offer a bit more than half the asking price to start…
I think that’s a better bet to enjoy a country drive. It’s very pretty, but I know nothing concerning the VW based TD’s.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I found one right by my house. What are your thoughts on this one?
Could be good. Note the engine tin goes to the edges of the engine bay. That’s how it should be to keep the motor cool when you’re rolling slow. A dual-carb 1776 should be peppy, I recommend a test drive—and see how recently that motor was installed. Google GEX engines & check reviews on the Samba.
I saw the reviews lol about ten min after I messaged lol they look sketchy. But also could be ok. I looked up the common threads and it seems they explode within 1-10k miles
I am heading to look at it now. Any specifics to note for the frame or undercarriage
I just started and test drove it like I stole it. Prior owner changed the engine ten years ago, he fixed things and kept it super clean in his garage. I thought I heard a knock but didn’t after I drove. Also noticed oil filter was up front of the car which is different. I also noticed oil leaking under the carriage since it sat for 3 weeks without driving. I wiped it up and drove it and no oil anywhere. Also the dipstick was full so I don’t know where it’s coming from.
Gunna have a mechanic run it over tonight or tomorrow
Most VW air cooled engines leak a bit of oil. If you rev them up. especially with bigger cylinders fitted or stroked cranks, they tend to blow a little oil through the front behind the crank pulley. There’s no seal there from the factory, just a screw groove spinning to carry the oil back toward the crank case. 5000 RPM overwhelms it. Leaks at the valve covers are common, as are drips around the screen cover. The breather system is a baloney cut rubber hose.
All this can be remedied with care and attention to detail. Forever and ever amen. Most guys just live with the little drips and inspect for new and bigger issues regularly.
If the GEX has miles on it and runs well it’s probably just fine. On these cars you’re looking for rust on the frame head, rust along the tunnel, rust along the frame edges around the floors, rusty floors and rusty or bent frame horns—those are what holds up the engine and transaxle. If they’re all clean it’s a go.
After that you want to look at brakes, brake lines and hoses, the steering coupler and other rubber bits that wear out just sitting around. Easy and fairly cheap stuff to replace, but all pretty mission-critical.
Good luck, Adam.
Thank you so much for the info. So the brakes, drums and shoes were recently redone. The transmission was rebuilt about a year ago; the brake lines were changed as were the spark plug wires. Spark plugs were not changed yet, but I plan on doing that when I do a thorough cleaning; as I will also do the valve timing.
Had my vw mechanic come out and look at it (hes from Germany and works on air cooled in his spare time); i did pay him 100 bucks. He got under the car and said there was some patching, but it looked like it was done very very well. He pointed out the dripping oil and said that it was just a new seal needed under the sump and that is an easy fix… but he did point out that they moved a full flow filter to the front of the car for oil change ease of access. The heads were spotless, and something he called heater channels looked very very clean. He listened to her start and rev it for about 2 minutes and heard a slight ticking, but he said that is typical; you would know when it was a “knock.” But it also could be something as simple as a valve timing thing.
We test drove it about 10 miles and then drove back to just let it idle for a good 10-15 more minutes. It was in great working condition, as we drove it like we stole it lol….. When we returned the tick was gone, so I assume its a valve timing thing (as does he).
After the overview with him, I went ahead and paid, and should be picking it up on Monday!!! Super excited to be apart of the “family” and looking forward to finally having a classic of my own (not just the ones I watched on Meccum growing up)… though I know mine will prolly never cross the bidding block lol.
Congratulation on your purchase. Sounds like you found a nice one. Welcome.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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