December 30, 2004 at 3:06 pm #232120Frank KuhnParticipant
Has anyone tackled the problem of adjusting the seats (driver side) to gain better sccess to the peddles? On my MiGi the distance is too great. I am also interested to know if anyone tried to relocate the Emergency brake, to a usable position behind the gearshift? I have many more questions, but this is enough for the moment.
Frank KuhnDecember 30, 2004 at 9:39 pm #236433Michael PullenParticipant
I relocated the E brake to it’s “proper” position between the seats. It’s a pretty difficult process requiring that you cut about 3 ft. from a donor car tunnel including both the brake and shifter, and transplant the whole thing to it’s correct position with the shifter centered over the end of the (shortened) shaft which changes gears. I ended up having to fabricate a new shaft because I missed the mark by a 1/2″. Hardest part of the whole job is bending the tubing at the rear of the tunnel which directs the wires for the heater/defroster flaps and the E brake cables. It’s a brutal, frustrating knuckle tearing job. I’m glad I did it, but I really don’t recomend it unless you’re a fairly good welder and have a lot of patience. Keep in mind that if you screw it up you’ll compromise the strength of the whole pan, which relies on that tunnel for its strength. Not to rain on your parade…but you can pick up hydraulic parking brakes pretty cheap. If you still wish to go ahead, you might hook up with a dune buggy shop: they can probably help you find a junker pan, or direct you to a welder/fabricator who could do it for you if that’s how you want to go.
I replaced my seats with Corbeou Classic Buckets, which slide on tracks and sit on steel platforms I had fabricated for them. The original bench style seat could be moved forward but it would be a little work and might look odd given the shape of the car which sort of wraps around those seat backs. Bucket seats are the obvious solutin, if you aren’t concerned about staying close to the original MG pattern. Look for used ones if you don’t have the bucks for new.
Good luck with your car.
Michael, the Merlin guyDecember 31, 2004 at 12:46 pm #236434Paul MossbergKeymaster
If you have a bench seat, I have an adjustable seat frame that I bought from ClassiC Roadsters many years ago. I never installed it in my Duchess. Brand new in the box.
Contact me off list if you ar einterested.
Paul Mossberg (email@example.com)
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster
If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)January 3, 2005 at 1:32 pm #236435BrianParticipant
On my BCW rather than moving the bench seat back and forth,
which would be uncomfortable because the steering wheel
would be to close to the driver?s chest, I made pedal extenders
for shorter drivers to use. The extenders bolt onto the clutch
and brake pedals. The accelerator seemed to be all right for
everyone. The extenders work well except that they take a
couple of minutes to put on and they have to be taken off before
I can drive. They also beat up my pedal pads, although with a
simple design change I could resolve that problem.
I have been toying with the idea of going to a fully hydraulic
pedal assembly (clutch, brake, and accelerator pedals).
Performance VW shops like Bugstuff and CB Performance
carry hydraulic pedal assemblies for dune buggies. With the
hydraulic assemblies, pressing on the pedal actuates a piston
behind the pedal creating pressure in a line running to a slave
cylinder that turns that pressure into movement, just as in any
braking system. With the use of flexible hoses at the pedals (to
connect them to the steel lines) and a pedal track mounting
system, all three pedals could be easily relocated for different
drivers. Performance shops also carry track systems for
mounting the pedals to the floor pan.
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