Shifter problems

[Mike Poinsett]

I just bought a Fiberfab TD with a VW 1641 cc engine and I am having a difficult time shifting gears. The lever moves all over the place and there seems to be no set spot for the gears. Wants to hang up in any gear. I don’t think it’s me as I have driven VW’s before and I know how they shift. Any help with this would really be appreciated. I am getting tired of getting honked at when I can’t find 1st gear at a stop light.

[Royal]

First, Welcome to the site.  

Let’s hope that you only have a shifter problem since the alternative is a transaxle problem which is much more difficult to repair.  See Rob & Dave’s site to get you started on troubleshooting:

http://www.vw-resource.com/shifter.html

[billnparts]

Welcome

Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"

[newkitman]

Sounds like the bushing in the shift rod bracket is either worn or missing. When you pull the shifter and see the shift rod, just slightly rearward of the end of the shift rod is the bracket with the bushing. Its a neoperene bushing that fits around the shift rod and keeps it in position. Not difficult to change out the shifter bushing. Just a little painstaking because of the lack of room inside the tunnel. You’ll have to remove or slide forward the shift rod until it comes out of the bracket and then install the new bushing and slide it all back together. And you’ll get to take a look at the shift rod coupling where it attaches to the transaxle. A lot of folks I know change that along with the shift rod bushing.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Paul Mossberg]

Ditto what Allen wrote.

 

A worn (or missing) shift rod bushing is my first guess!

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Bill Gould]

That’s a common complaint, and replacing the shift rod bushing was one of the first things I had done when I bought my Lafer six years ago. Good luck.

1981 Lafer TI
1600 cc Type 1 engine

[edward ericson]

Did mine too and it made a lot of difference. PITA job though.

[Mike Poinsett]

Thanks for all the info, guys. I will attack this problem post haste since it’s almost impossible to drive my new toy the way it is. Do you all have a favorite parts source for these vehicles? I’m new to this and hate to get ripped off.

[Royal]

For TDr stuff I use Mg Magic.  

For TD stuff Moss Motors, Victoria British, Abington Spares.  

For VW stuff Aircooled.net, Cip1, SoCal, Mid America, Advance Auto, Autozone, and O’Reilly.  

For used VW stuff, I am fortunate to have an operating used VW Beetle (only) old fashioned junk yard about 2 miles from my house.  

This is only a small fraction of all the suppliers available.  

[Mike Poinsett]

OK, so last night I unbolted and removed the shift lever and I discovered that the bracket that is inside the tunnel that holds the plastic shift rod bushing isn’t fastened to the tunnel. It seems to me that it should be welded to the tunnel. How am I going to get everything back together after replacing the bushing if that bracket is loose in there. Am I missing something?

[Mike Poinsett]

Another question, do I have to completely remove the shift rod to install the new bushing? It looks to me like I can grease up the rod and slip the bushing on to the rear of the rod and inch it up to the front where it belongs. The inspection cover in the front of the frame pan is behind some of the body work and I don’t think the rod will come completely out.

[newkitman]

If you sand off the paint along the top of the tunnel just behind the shifter, you will see where the shift rod bracket is welded to the top of the tunnel with I think 6 welds. It may have been riveted rather than welded. I did both with mine. Here’s the link to my photo albums and you will see what it looks like.

http://www.fotki.com/Allen1209/

 

As for the shift rod coming out, slide it forward out of the bracket and tie some string around the rear end of the shift rod and then slide the shift rod forward out of the way. When you have the bracket rewelded then grab the string and guide the shift rod back, slip on the bushing, remove the string and slide the assembly into the bracket. A bit over simplified but thats bacically what you do to replace the bushing.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Mike Poinsett]

Thanks again for the info.

[Mike Poinsett]

An update….I replaced the front bushing with a new one and also the bracket that holds it. I made a new shift rod with an adjustable rear fitting. Also replaced the rear coupler rubbers and installed a grade 8 3/8 bolt in place of that screwy thing with the screw going through it. I cut an access hole in the tunnel to make it easier to remove the shift rod and re-install all the new stuff. I welded the hole shut after I was finished. Took it out for a trial flogging today and it shifts like a new one. On the road again. Next project will be front wheel bearings and whatever else is worn out in the suspension.

[Anonymous]

  Glad to  hear feedback of a fix that works. Some times remidy is not explained.

[Mark]

Hey Allen…please forgive me i’m new to all of this. Is this done from inside at the shifter? there are two bolts that hold a plate down for the stick , is this where I go in?

[newkitman]

Yep! Take out those two bolts and lift out the shifter. Then if you feel along the top of the shift rod towards the back you’ll feel the bracket. Normally welded in with 6 or 8 welds.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Mark]

Thanks Allen. This sounds fairly easy. I really had NO idea what I was getting into when I bought this car. With all ya’ll (you guys) helping I might make it thru.

[Paul Mossberg]

These have been posted before, but deserve to be seen again.

These are inside a stock tunnel. I believe this is a Ghia. But it is essentially the same inside a Beetle’s tunnel.

The differences inside your VW TDr tunnel….pedals and shifter have been moved rearward about two feet, and the associated cable tubes have been shortened.

PMOSSBERG2013-10-06 11:59:34

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Mark]

Wow, thanks for the pics. That helps a lot. I know you guys get tired of re-showing this stuff but for the new members it is a good thing. Thanks to all of you.

[Royal]

I’m fixin’ (a southern word) to move my emergency brake further aft.  Don’t the e-brake cables go inside the tunnel also?  Where?

[newkitman]

Roy. The E-brake cable tubes go back along the top of each side of the tunnel to just before the rear end of the tunnel. From there they head out the left and right side of the pan/chassis. I know someone moved the brake cables back there and posted the work with photos. Do a search of moving the e-brake cable and its there somewhere.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Royal]

Thanks Allen, I guess I’ll have to pull my carpet up.  I found Ed’s post but I have a bench seat so, my problem is a bit different.  

[Ed Starecheski]

Hi Huskykicker,
Saw your post about cutting an access hole in the tunnel to allow for shift Rod removal and bushing replacement.
I think I have to do the same thing…..can you give me a good description of how/what/where exactly what you did??
Many thanks!
Ed

[Author]

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