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Thanks. Seems I am saying that word a lot lately. Everyone is so great with information and helpful hints. The rear is carpeted and it is glued down,so my work is cut out for me. It will be next week b4 I can get back to it. I will post my progress then.
Thanks GeorgeNew problem. Po bent the shift tube end out of round and it will not push thru the bushing in the hanger. Is there a way to remove the shift rod? I could ring his neck! There wasn’t even a bushing in place. I guess I now know why!
To remove the shift rod…
There is an oval access plate at the front of the tunnel. In your TD, it might be behind the assembly supporting the front of the body. Remove that plate and feed a wire (or electrician’s “snake”) through the tunnel. Attach it to the shift rod and pull it out the front.
PMOSSBERG2014-06-09 23:08:35
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Spent the entire day attempting to install shift rod into new bushing. No luck. The rod end is too out of round to slide thru new bushing. I tried grease etc and attempting to reshape the rod thru the shifter opening(impossible). Not sure what to do now.
They do make a split bushingg that can be used. Got the one I used on my car from the local vw parts house. It fits around the shaft and a spring wire clip holds it togeather till it is in the center bracket.
I tried installing the quick shift kit yesterday.I can’t seem to get it adjusted so that all the gears are working as they should. Mostly 2nd and reverse. I took it off and now I got reverse working ok (pushing down on shifter to engage),but 2nd gear still wants to be a bit rough. If I get 2nd working ok I then can engage reverse without pushing down on the shifter and want to hit reverse when downshifting. I reallly like the short throw of the quick shift,just need to keep playing with it I suppose.Thanks again for the tip on the empi muffler (3487). Also,when is the Carlisle,Pa. show you spoke of and is it an annual event?
Dana,
The Carlisle show is an annual extravaganza held in May in Carlisle, PA. Each year we try to beat the last year attendance and so far, we’ve been successful. Watch for more info about Carlisle. You may even find a group traveling close to you that you could hook up with and caravan with. Paul Mossberg usually lets us know about registering. And you can Google Carlisle International and Kit Car Show and get their web site.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThank you. I hope I could get my TD reliable enough for a road trip(or maybe tow it if not). I need to install sheet metal around the engine to help cooling.The previous owner did not and I am hesitant to drive too far too long.
Towing it there is fine. Several of the regular attendees tow their cars. I’ll probably tow mine to the hotel and then drive her while there.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackSold my towbar a couple of years ago(bummer). Guess I will look for another one. It sounds like a good trip. I have a frien I helped restore his 1963 corvair spider. Maybe I can enlist his company.
DanaG…you have many months to go before Carlisle 2015. You’ll be driving long before then!
There are caravans coordinated by the Speedster group, so you likely will not have to drive ling distance by yourself. Lots of info will be out months in advance of the event.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I may be a bit late to the party but I had very similar experiences with sloppy/lumpy steering.
The builder had skipped fabricating and installing a bushing in the steering tube, insufficient clearance with the body panels next to the steering box connection, loose bolts in the couplings, excess play in the steering box, steering limit stops set way in allowing tire rub, and a missing part in the steering wheel hub which made the turn signals not self-cancel. All were fixable thanks to the advice in this forum.
Oh yeah, several parts of the complex VW horn button wiring system were unconnected/missing. The white plastic button under the dash just didn’t get it for horn operation. Good tutorials on Samba about that.In fairness, I admit that most of these components are buried under the gas tank nest so they don’t come to mind immediately during troubleshooting. I had the gas tank in and out so many times that I put a shut-off valve at the tank output hose so I could pull the tank more easily.
One good thing has come out of all the hassle – I have become very familiar with car so things are getting easier. 🙂
Still attempting to adjust shifter. Upshifting ok,but downshifting to 2nd gear not good. No amount of adjusting seems to help. If I rev the engine as dropping into second fm 3rd it seem to help somewhat.
Sounds like your 2nd gear synchronizer is worn out. It’ll probably drive ok like this for a long time. You need to be gentle when downshifting is all. I’d consider living with it.
The previous builder of my MG had already installed a fuel shutoff valve inline.It helped a lot. The bushing was missing from the steering shaft tube as well. Made no sense cutting corners like that. It made it a nightmare to drive. I knew things were wrong when I bought it though so not really surprised. Still enjoying every moment of it!
How well does the shifter work when upshifting from first gear to second gear? If that’s OK, it is likely a worn synchronizer, as Roy suggests.
You may want to consider draining the transmission oil, and replacing it with synthetic. That will often make old, worn transmissions easier to live with…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Thanks. It upshifts fine. Just grinds downshifting. I hate that sound! As I said there is a sweet spot where if I rev the engine as I am downshifting it grinds less. Isn’t reverse and 2nd synchronizer the same? Shouldn’t reverst grind as well?
Typically, the wheels (and mainshaft) aren’t turning much, when you shift to reverse — so synchronizer isn’t a factor…
Sounds like it is not a shifter linkage issue to me… I’d try the synthetic — it will make the synchronizer operate more smoothly, though still perhaps not enough to completely get rid of the symptoms.Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Is the clutch disengaging fully?
Do you have to push the pedal to the firewall to shift into first or reverse?Are you able to fully depress the clutch pedal fully?How much free play do you have at the top of the pedal. More than an inch is too much.BDriverSorry it has taken so long to reply.I have been out of the country for a couple of weeks and could not connect. I have the correct amount of play in the clutch pedal and I do not have to depress it to the firewall completely to shift into first or reverse. I do believe I will try the synthetic as proposed and see if it helps.I did notice the clutch cable had been cut and some type of clamp is used to shorten it. I did some adjusting here but it did not change anything.
Pretty much all of us have clamps on our clutch cables. Short of having a custom one made, it’s the only way to get the right length cable when you move the stock clutch pedal back 18 inches or so.
I figured as much. I am hoping to try the synthetic this week. I will post on how it works. Also going to get an estimate on upholstery ,tonneau cover,and spare tire cover to match.
Had full synthetic put in last week.Didn’t help much on the grind downshifting to 2nd. Guess I will have to live with it till I just can’t anymore.
Been working on TD SPORADICALLY,(summer vacations etc). Just installed a new empi progressive 2Bbl(32/36) and am having an issue. Same issue as with old carb I removed. It is hard to start after I run the car for awhile(warm engine) and shut it off . It run great when it smooths out but very rough on restart. Immediate restarts are fine just not after it sits for awhile. Idles at 900 to 1000 after it settles down. Checked for vacuum leaks and fuel pump cks ok. It has a centrif dist as well( which is what was recommended on this carb). Any other suggestions guys?
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