TD Muffler

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Viewing 10 posts - 51 through 60 (of 60 total)
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  • #260385
    Dana Gibbs
    Participant

    @danag

    Thank you. I had actually figured that one out. Is it heat related? Gas evaporating? I have an extra cooling fan directed toward #3 and 4 head. Temp guage never seems to get past 140.

    #260386
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    I don’t know.

    #260387
    Dana Gibbs
    Participant

    @danag

    Been a long time since my last post. Over the winter I had the engine and tranny overhauled. It is running (and shifting) GREAT! This car is a ball to drive. Next I will attack the interior. Having a little trouble getting the brakes bleed. Can’t get all the air out. It will bleed fine till I get to the right front cylinder and I lose the peddle again.

    #260388
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Dana : Might try to bleed Right rear left rear right front and then left front. start with farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder  and then work  to the ones closer to master cylinder.

    #260389
    Dana Gibbs
    Participant

    @danag

    I am beginning to think I made a huge mistake on this MG. Just as I had it running great I noticed a bearing making noise in the front. While replacing the front bearings I noticed the master cylinder was leaking and so I replaced it as well. I now have an air lock in the lines and cannot get the brakes to bleed. If that is not enough after doing the bearings and the master cylinder the engine is now running terrible. It pops thru the muffler and misses terribly. I adjusted the valves,cleaned the plugs and still runs the same. It is almost as if an exhaust valve is stuck open. this is a new engine with less than 100 miles on it. I also noticed a puddle of oil underneath the car when I pulled into the garage. I am at my wits end and have no idea where to turn.

    #260390
    Dana Gibbs
    Participant

    @danag

    I also bought a vacuum brake bleeder and still I cannot get a good peddle.

    #260391
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    How about trying the reverse bleeder, pushing the fluid from the wheels to the master cylinder.

    http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=2104-B&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=2104-B&gclid=CNvUvYuoncgCFdcUHwodJ0sMMg

    Worth considering?
    Or
    Open the bleeder, walk away and have a beer and wait til it drips.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #260392
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    Just retread your post…you did bleed the master before you installed it?

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #260393
    Royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Dana, Is it possible that your brake pedal is not returning to full “up”. If it is not, then you will not get a good bleed because the master cylinder is shutting off the brake fluid from the reservoir to the master cylinder.

     If the brake pedal is returning as it should, you should be able to open the bleed valve on any of your wheel cylinders (like Bill suggests) and walk away until fluid starts to dribble out. 

    #260394
    Royal
    Participant

    @royal

    Dana, regarding “running terrible”, did it run terrible before or after you adjusted the valves?

    If it ran terrible after the plug change, my  guess would be that you swapped a couple ignition wires.

    Royal2015-09-29 21:29:13

Viewing 10 posts - 51 through 60 (of 60 total)
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