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Looking for rear splash pan, that fits over the rear frame/bumper supports, underneath the “fake gas tank/engine lid”…
Doesn’t have to be from a VW kit.Mine is reparable to fix the previous owner/builder hacks, but it would be be far simpler just to replace it, even if painting is required.PM or email me…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Well, a guy on eBay had three original TD rear splash pans for sale, with the option to Make an Offer. So, I did — at about 1/2 what he was asking, and surprisingly he accepted the offer…
So, I should have a metal, original TD splash pan arriving in a few days. We’ll see how close to authentic these early FF kits were…I thought metal might be an even stronger base to support pop-riveting (or screwing in) all the additional tin work that I need to enclose the rear of the engine…It’s an affordable experiment, at least, IF the original will fit between the fenders on my TDr…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...kent did you get all three or just one ? I might be interested in one of the other ones if you got them all.
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
I just bought one — the red one, of course!
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Two available, one red, one white, Buy it now at $175, or make an offer
One crusty one, buy it now $129.99PMOSSBERG2014-01-22 09:19:37
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
So, OK. Those slots? Those are for the spare tire rack that none of us have (actually I have something like it but spaced about six inches wider).
So you will probably have to glass those over, at least partially.You will also want to trim a C-shape out of the forward center to make way for the pulleys on your engine.Also the overall width will probably be wrong by an inch or two. You will almost certainly have to widen it.Holes for bumper brackets? Hard to know. Probably they won’t be right either before or after you widen the thing.Other than that it’s a bolt-on.PMOSSBERG wrote:Two available, one red, one white, Buy it now at $175, or make an offerNope –I got the red one, leaving a blue one and a white one. Or, at least I better have — I told him twice which one I wanted and he’s already shipped it… 😛He originally had them listed for $150 each, with a Best Offer. I offered him $100 shipped, for the red one, and he took it…My fiberglass one has been BADLY HACKED — almost all the fiberglass behind the added metal has been removed. Combine that with the fact that the old FF one doesn’t even attempt to match the curve of the VW engine’s rear pulley tin, and I have a lot of work ahead of me regardless.This one also has never had a rear bumper mounted, though I have a new, complete Moss repro to go on it.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Ed,
My thought on those spare tire rack slots was IF there’s room underneath with the extractor/header tubes in there, that I might try to fabricate and install a “fake spare tire mount” that would let me hinge the entire engine lid from there. My engine lid was originally attached with the cheap black rubber clamps like you see on Baja bugs, as shown. I’ve bought chrome spring-loaded T-handle clamps to replace those….Without the weight of a real spare tire back there, only the fiberglass engine lid and fake spare, I thought electrical conduit might be strong enough, is easily bent and shaped, and all kinds of fittings are readily available…Just one more shade-tree engineering project on my list — if I ever get to it…KentT2014-01-22 11:06:10
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...That car doesn’t look too bad at all, Kent. The ride height looks about right. It’s all there.
Is that an exhaust cutout he made there? Cuz those pipes are sticking through pretty close to where bumper bolts should be.I don’t quite get why the exhaust pipes want to come through right there….You will notice that the stock pan you bought is shaped so that the spare tire will sort of nestle in to it (right where the aluminum thingie is on your pan.) Making it look “just right” then will also involve relocating it upwards about 2 1/2 inches. This, of course, will not be possible without reworking youre engine cover/fake gas tank quite liberally.Either that or pick up the whole body by that much. And then lower the suspension a like amount (about one notch on the outer torsion bar spline).Of course that makes no sense whatsoever.Did the PO, perhaps, raise the engine? It doesn’t make sense that he would have, but those pipes have me scratching my head.edsnova2014-01-22 11:12:17
Kent, if the engine cover is that light I wouldn’t even bother with conduit pipe. Just buy a bit of that thin-walled aluminum stuff we use for our tops, and the same hinge fittings that boat top places sell for Biminis.
I’m not sure what kind of exhaust is on the 1500 SP. I think it is some kind of old European Monza-style or something. I just know it doesn’t fit for crap….
It has individual runners, like an extractor, that go into the ends of about a 6″ ROUND (not oval) muffler, with exhaust outlets also on each end of the muffler. Right now, there’s 90-degree elbows on each of those outlets, and he trimmed the fiberglass significantly. He also had to trim it on top behind the engine, on each side, where the #2 and #4 heat risers are. He had it shimmed up with a short stack of flat washers on top of the bumper mounts. So, I knew going in that I’d likely have to shim the OEM TD one also…I don’t think he raised the engine, but he may have installed the bumper brackets too low…This is kinda like — why the heck did he flip the steering column to put the key on the other side?KentT2014-01-22 11:25:14
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...
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