- This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 4 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I need to get to the shift lever assembly on the top of the transmission. I’ve
been told that this can be done by removing the floor console, i.e
transmission hump. My car is a BCW with engine and tranny from a 1976
Chevy Chevette. Can I just cut an opening around the shifter control
assembly in the transmission hump or am I gonna have to remove the entire
thing?
On my BCW with the Chevette engine and transmission ,the shifter assembly fits through a hole in the tunnel and the bolts to remove the shifter are above the top of the tunnel , covered only by the shifter boot and the carpet. If your problem is deeper in the transmission the tunnel which is originally attached with pop rivets will probably need to be removed to get the engine and transmission out of the car. If you check in some older posts by Pink MG ,and also in his photo gallary , you can see how he redesigned the rear trans mount so the tunnel no longer needs to be removed to get the trans out of the car.Hope this helps ,let us know if you need more info.
Dick ; I had trouble with my shifter 77 chevette I got mine from under the car the shifting just went away and was stuck in 2nd. the rail going to the trans. just fall apart the builder did not put a weld on the bracket only brazed it one small spot .if it’s the same proublem it is a cover over the tube going to it [trans ]to keep it stright with the cup on top where the shifter knob sets in the rail if it is the same mistake in the build you can fix it if you have no welder use a nut and bolt to keep the rail in place by cutting the head off a 5/16 X 4 inch adjusting it to the lenth needed there is a stop in the rail tube ,with trans in 3 rd.threds in the bracket in the rear of trans bolt it tight or weld . 4000 miles no trouble now I hope it helped. Dan/ ps good luck. Dan R40036.3956134259
The bottom of the shifter stick has a fork that fits over a piece that is held on the shift shaft by a roll-pin. There is a little nylon “clip” that fits over this piece and receives the shifter lever fork. If this is missing or shot, you may be aboe to get one from Rick Drake, the Chevette Man in Everett, Washington. He had only a couple NOS ones a few years ago…good luck if this is the part you need.
I had a speedo drive gear on the tail shaft disintegrate. The only way to get at it was remove the engine transmission. This necessitated removing the transmission tunnel. You can see in the gallery why…welded in “crossmember”. The trans cannot move up or down to allow the rubber mount to clear the crossmember.
These cars bodies were assembled over a completed rolling chassis with engine/trans installed. No provvisions for R&R of the trans were engineered in the design.
You never really said why you need to do this???
Pink MG40036.4515277778
I got a little enthusiastic shifting and the shift lever went all mushy. But I did
surprise a pimply-faced teenager driving his mother’s Honda. But finding a
gear turned into a hunt and hope process.
Rick Drake to the rescue!
The problem is that little nylon clip on the “shifter shaft lever arm pin” that
had disintegrated. Thanks to Rick, I was able to get at it through the top of
the shift control housing and only had to remove some carpet and the shifter
boot. All a piece of cake. Rick did have the part and it is on the way.
More to come.
Hi Dick, That is great news. Glad it’s going to be an easy fix. I will probably shift mine a little more gently now that I know that a piece of plastic is holding things together.
That nylon piece is the same material the speedo gears are made from. The gear lube makes them swell and time (a few decades) makes them brittle.
Glad that it’s an easy fix and that Rick Drake had the part…he’s the bomb!!! Put a little gasket sealer on the cover when you reassemble it.
Don’t tell anyone, but Larry Murphy has a brand “new” (freshly rebuilt and never used) spare four speed transmission. No shifter stuff on it though. OOOPS…I told everyone
ALL FIXED!
The nylon clip arrived from Rick Drake and took less than ten minutes to
install. Test drive successful. Shifts like a new car. Total cost: $19. Total
time: two hours.
Now all I gotta do is fix the overheating problem. It runs up to 212 degrees.
Great news…on the road again!
About the overheating…check to see what thermostat is in it. If it’s not a 180*, change it to one. The stat’s fahrenheit value should be stamped on it, plus if it’s the original, it’s probably due for a change anyway.
If you can, pressure test the radiator cap too.
If you run just water in the system, products like Lucas Water Wetter and the Royal Purple variant, actually work. The more anti freeze in the system, the less they work. So, if you run a 50/50 solution, don’t waste your $$.
Fabricating fan shroud is also an option. They really work.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.