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The old contraption is beginning to come around finally. Had some problems with the shifter. Installed new shifter bushing and clip and a new rear coupler with a bolt instead of that screw thingy. That fixed that, almost. Re-hashed a lot of the wiring and now almost everything works except the oil temp gauge. Don’t know what’s up with that. Got some new hubcaps that I think look tons better and more authentic than the fake wires that were on it when I got it. Made me a cup holder out of some scraps I had laying around. One of the nuts holding the carb on was missing…fixed that. Still lots to do. After fixing the shift problem with new parts, now it doesn’t want to stay in reverse when I’m backing up. All the other gears work fine. I am guessing I don’t have the shifter hold down plate adjusted right. What direction do I have to move it to get reverse right?
I’am guessing that it was OK before you removed the stop plate.If you didn’t mark it you might look very close at it to see if you can tell the previous position.also are the tabs on the plate facing up or down they are supposed to be up,some plates only have one and when installed it should be on the right,the ones with 2 tabs the long narrow tab should be on the left. if you don’t get it in the right position you will have shifting problems.( info is from my VW service manual )
huskykicker wrote:After fixing the shift problem with new parts, now it doesn’t want to stay in reverse when I’m backing up. All the other gears work fine. I am guessing I don’t have the shifter hold down plate adjusted right. What direction do I have to move it to get reverse right?Try loosening the two bolts just enough to slide the hold down plate straight forward a little bit. Tighten in back down and see if that helped…If you can picture it, having worked on the shift rod, you’re trying to adjust it to pull the shaft on the tranny as far forward as possible, when in reverse.Not sure that’ll solve the symptoms you’re having, but…Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Thanks, I’ll try that. When I rebuilt the shifter I added an adjustable fitting to the shift rod where it attaches to the coupler in the rear. I might try tweaking that a bit as well.
Adjust one at a time . Make sure of adjustment before moving another one. If two things are done a5t the same time you won’t know what fixed te problem.
Well, after adjusting my shifter plate, I got the old girl so she will change gears correctly, so all is right with the world. Now on to the next project….gonna build a fiberglass top. After making some sketches on toilet paper while lounging in the library, I think I have come up with a workable plan that should be pretty easy. (where have I heard that before) I figure I can use electrical conduit for the basic framework and cover that with sheets of fiberglass/plastic that I found at Menards. Then I’ll fiberglass the inside and cover the outside with 1/4 inch foam and vinyl top material. I’ll use wood for the front header and the rear portion below the back window. Easy Peasy. If it doesn’t work out I turn it into a bird bath or something. Anyway, it will keep me out of the saloons this winter.
Really looking forward to seeing your roof project Mike!
Good luck!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Consider usding the method they use for speaker enclosures on the Overhaulin TV show. Cover the frame tubes with plastic or masking tape. Get some stretchable fabric and stretch that over your frame, then impregnate that with resin. Once it sets, then you can build up the glass cloth to add strength. The tell us if it works…..
I get the feeling that this is going to be a good thread!
I have a fiberglass top that came with my TDr when I purchased her, but it does not fit quite right on the body and the door panels definitely don’t fit. Maybe when I get around to fixing mine you will be done so I can steal a few of your ideas!Best of luck and don’t forget to ponder about buying some disposable gloves 😉 you don’t want to ruin any good shop gloves with the resin.Derek, I just picked up a fresh box of 50 pair. That should be enough. By the way, why not just put yourself out of your misery and sell me your top. Seems it would be easier to fix yours than for me to make a new one. I’m just sayin”.
Well then you see I would have the predicament of having to drive around in the rain with no top! Not that that is a big deal since I can’t drive her right now since she’s leaking 2 of the 3 fluids she carries 😕 (oil and gas)
Anyways, then I would have to pioneer a fiberglass top! And it seems like a much better idea to let you have the fun!Although I could send pics of how it is constructed and what it looks like if you want some reference material. Just PM me your email and Ill snap a few and send ’em your way.
Please post the pictures here. Even though I have not participated in this thread, if you check back, fiberglass tops are not a new subject. I, and I expect that a few more TDr fellows, are interested and would like to see how it was constructed and how you intend to repair/make fit better.
Hey, sorry the photos are a bit late, life got a bit hectic with Thanksgiving and everything. Here are some photos of the fiberglass top though.
General overview.
There are panels on the inside on the left and right. I am not exactly sure what their purpose is but they are held on via screws from the exterior.
This shows the other side. There are also two aluminum bars going across the top of the interior presumably for structural support and to help hold the vinyl interior.
This one shows the horizontal piece that goes around the bottom and sits on the body. It is flat fiberglass with vinyl that is peeling off.
Showing the stitching and screw patterns. I currently have it attached by four clasps as shown. When I re-do the vinyl I want to make it more like the canvas top with a flap that hangs down and snaps onto the body. I believe it would be more secure and help protect more against the weather. You can also see that it does not quite fit the curvature of the body.
Here you can see an aluminum L bar that slips under the window frame to hold the front down, this also requires a bit of modification so that it will stop rattling… A tad bit annoying 😕
And lastly a picture of how the top fits over the windshield frame.If you have any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer! Again I apologize for the delayed post.Nobody2013-12-04 15:51:28
Thanks for the pictures, Derek. I haven’t started on my top yet….still collecting ideas. I think using the vinyl top material hanging over the outside edge and utilizing the convertible top snaps is a great idea….I was wondering how to fasten the back of the top to the body and I think you nailed it. As far as finishing the inside, I plan to glue some type of fabric or carpet to the fiberglass. It looks like from your pictures that upholstering the inside with vinyl could be difficult. Anyway, I hope to get started on my project soon, and I will keep you posted on my progress.
That’s definitely a unique accessory. The overall look is pretty good.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I believe that your idea for the interior is very similar to what is currently in it. The vinyl was cut to shape and attached with some sort of adhesive (thus it is falling down in the back). I think the aluminum strips help hide the seams where the corners are. It is not actually upholstered from what I can tell. It is only upholstered on the exterior, but that is not a complicated pattern.
Although some sort of fabric or carpet could look really good, might make it feel a bit more comfortable rather than having vinyl all around your head.Nobody2013-12-04 19:22:37
I put the current door panels on this last weekend. They fit alright, but not very snug against the top of the door, and they don’t go up to the windshield, although that should not matter too much once I get the passenger side wind wing done.
I used a 12″x1.5″ piano hinge bolted to the fiberglass top and screwed in to the door panel. It is not attached to the door directly but there is a lip on the bottom of the window that catches the inside of the door and helps seal it off.The only real problem there is, is that because the top is at a slightly different angle than body where the door bolts on the window separates from the door a few inches once it is open. This should be easy to avoid when you are making yours though, just make sure that it is all parallel.
Derek, thanks for the updated information and picture. At this time, I don’t plan on making side curtains (or windows). The top I am planning is pretty much for keeping me out of sun (doctors orders). If I do decide to make side windows, your plan looks good.
How heavy is your top? I am hoping to be able to make it light enough that I can take it on or off by myself.
I’m planning on making a side curtain storage box like the original td had. The storage compartment looks to be about two inches deep. Here’s a photo (I hope)
newkitman2013-12-11 21:40:36Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThe top is not at all heavy (I can carry it by myself) but due to its size it is not really possible to move it on and off the car by ones self. The center of gravity is a little bit behind the seat back, and in the middle.
Something to think about if you want to do it by yourself is maybe make it modular to some extent?Allen, That is pretty neat, Is the photo from your TDr or an original TD? The frame looks a bit more complicated than ours. Let us know how it goes when you make it, I might be interested in doing that once I get a soft top made.
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