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I need a new project and am thinking of getting a VW MG-TD replica. I will probably Autocross it occasionally and want to build a 75 hp engine. What do you feel is the best VW powered MG-TD replica that is stiff enough to AX. I live on Long Island, NY and Ax my 2002 Porsche 996 and occasionally my 2006 base mini Cooper. Just sold my 1979 911SC to buy the 996 so I enjoy rear engined cars.
Jack
J
All the VW based replicas share the same basic platform. You’d simply be autocrossing a rebodied VW. Anybody out there think that’s not true? I think it would just be picking a TD with the engine of your choice. There are TD’s out there with a Scooby swap. Hope you find what you need.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"One caveat to what Bill wrote, VWs through 1968 1/2 had swing axle rear suspensions. Independent rear suspension was introduced midway through the 1968 model year.
Make sure the donor car under the TDr you buy has the IRS.
Manufacturers (and builders/owners) have used varying approaches to softening the front suspension also, from adding weight to removing leaves from the torsion tube. Both approaches work, just make sure you know what you are buying.
Ok, that was two caveats. 🙂
Re: the engine build, a 1641 will add about 10 hp over a stock 1641. If you’re building an engine, I’d go with a 1776. That will put you around 90. Both figures will vary depending on the specifics.
I had all three in my Duchess. The 1641 didn’t make much difference over the stock 1600. The 1776 made it a very enjoyable driver. I wasn’t going to win any stoplight starts, but it made a big difference in all around drivability.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
TD replica on a Bug pan is fun to autoX but not very effective because the rear weight bias is so substantial. It’s about 65-35, so getting the front wheels to bite is tough. Loads of laughs though: highly recommend.
The various “brands” of this kit—CMC, Fiberfab MiGi, Allison, Grand Duchess, BCW, etc.—are all functionally the same, with one caveat*. There is no “stiffness” in the chassis, as it’s a straight Bug pan with a fiberglass shell bolted to it. It might be possible to tie it together with a 4 or 6-point roll cage, but fitting it will be tricky.
Speedster replicas are a bit less butt heavy, and are lighter, but hardly anyone puts them on the track. The ultimate of course is the 550 Spyder, but you probably knew that.
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*My BCW TD would not accept a dual-carbed Type 1 engine without major body mods, one of the reasons I ended up putting a Subaru (137 hp) in it. You can get your 75hp with a single center carb on a 1776 or 1835 T1 engine using either a Holly-Weber two barrel or a slightly tweaked 34 PICT3 Solex.
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