What would you do?

[Mike]

I plan to pull my body and replace my pans this winter. I know that the frame head also has some rust through on the side , but cant tell the full extent until I get the body off and pull the front beam. It may be as simple as cutting out the section and welding in some new. Worse case scenario is new frame head replacement. This isnt as bad as it could be as I have a top welder at work and all the tools to do the job right . I just ran across a decent IRS chassis for $125.00. , includes a stock bare beam I could rebuild and weld adjusters in. It has one new pan welded in. It has set in the weather uncovered and appears only has surface rust , but I have only seen photos. My thought is I could rebuild this chassis, make the mods needed for shifter and pedal assembly, swap my engine and transmission. The bad news so far on the chassis is it is a 68 IRS and the only 68 IRS was the autostick meaning it does not have a clutch cable tube.I’ve Been searching the web and installing a clutch tube is no easy chore with mixed results. 1st option is going with a hydraulic clutch. Saco makes a sweet package that installs into the tunnel and uses the stock peddle assembly(about $250.00). Second option is a dune buggy type set up where the clutch, brake and roller peddle is one assembly and have their own fluid reservoirs. I kind of like the second option as I can see more precise peddle placement, but as the reservoirs are on the assembly it would make access to fill fluid a little difficult and I am not sure how you run the throttle cable  to the carb. Does anyone here have the dune buggy type assembly? So as I see it I can buy the chassis, refurb it and go to the extra expense of the hydraulic unit or wait and see if my frame head needs full replacement and go that route. Keep in mind I have a certified welder and shop access that can do the frame head with my help for a few dollars and some favors I have done for him. I really would like to hear some thoughts on this and the dune buggy type brake, clutch, roller peddle assembly if anyone has one installed.

[Paul Mossberg]

Mike,

My advice…don’t do anything for a day or two. 😎

A Speedster buddy installed a hydraulic clutch with a remote reservoir.
It uses a stock pedal cluster with a couple minor mods.
I just emailed him for permission to share his address.

Stay tuned.

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Mike]

Paul it sounds like he may have used the saco unit http://www.sacoperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=32-1001  . The master goes into the tunnel by way of an access hole cut on  the passenger side and mounts with the two bolts on the peddle cluster. What do you think about buying the chassis? Would it be worth all the work to set up versus if I have to do a full frame head replacement on the chassis I have? Like I had said in the previous post I have an excellent welder at work that is an artist at his trade so the replacement is very doable. I just thought that starting with a bare chassis I could build it like I wanted and maybe correct some mistakes IMHO that the original builder made when he/she built my car. I am still thinking about the dual brake and clutch setup like used on dune buggies. I am pretty sure there is enough room for the masters and reservoirs , but not sure about filling without making a mess . I also thought about Rockys build and how this $125.00 chassis could have saved him a ton of time and money . Not knocking his build mind you, it was beautiful and looked like brand new when he done. Not to mention all the valuable information he passed on in this forum.

[edward ericson]

But you don’t need a new chassis. And you don’t need one that’s more of a project than the one you already have. If I were going to pull the body off my car (and I probably am, at some point) I would at least wait until I knew I had a non-salvageable pan before buying another, particularly one that’s been setting out after someone else got halfway into it. . . . 

[Mike]

To be honest Ed thats what Im thinking too. Starting from scratch would pose more problems than taking care of the chassis I have now. Even if I need a new frame head(speculation here), I have people , a place and the tools to get it done. Last , but not least I have the help of the good people on this forum for advice..

[Royal]

My 2c:  you are heading in the right direction.  Dance wit the girl dat brung ya.  

[newkitman]

Mike I’m building my kit and working on the chassis at the moment. There is a lot of work drilling the tunnel and wellding pieces, and moving things around. And invariable, you’ll run into those pesky unexpected things. If all you have to do is change the frame head I’d go with that. Much less work. And you can always switch to a dual brake master cylinder setup while the body is off. Swap resevoirs, add a brake hose and line, and one brake switch and you got it. That’s my leaning anyway. I’m sure you’ll do what’s best.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Paul Mossberg]

Just ’cause I like to stir the pot…. hee hee

A lot of work to mod a chassis? I disagree folks. Moving the pedal cluster and gear shift is NOT a lot of work. Just my humble opinion, but it’s less than chopping off the front end and replacing it.

And a hydraulic clutch will have way better feel and take up than our cables.

And I like the idea of an original, solid chassis over one with a rewelded front end.

Mike, I will email you my friend’s address. You should at least have a conversation with someone who has installed a hydro clutch himself.

One other thing, I cannot imagine having my foot on a roller gas pedal for any long run. They are perfect for a dune buggy where they give more constant contact over rough roads and flying over dunes. But for a long road cruise or highway run, I want a larger contact patch between pedal and foot.

PMOSSBERG2012-05-26 10:49:08

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[newkitman]

Yeah I agree on the roller pedal. My 71 beetle chassis came with one but I replaced the cluster with the one that has the pedal rather than the roller. The I did the pedal cluster rebuild mod that was in Hot VWs. Going to rebuild the steering column using the article in the May issue of Hot VWs. Once I get the house’s AC unit working.

Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The Shack

[Mike]

Thanks for all the input guys. Roy I like your comment. I have danced with the same girl for 35 years and I dont ever plan on dancing with another. On a side note I got my car up on jack stands today to scrutinize  the situation. It appears there is only rust through in one area  on the side of the frame head and if true would only require a small section cut out and a patch welded in besides the new pans installed. I did quite a bit of poking and all seemed solid. I may have jumped the gun on the chassis talk, but  although once very common you dont run across a 40 year old chassis every day.
One other thing i discovered about The hydraulic clutch, brake peddle clusters is they are not DOT approved as they are a single not dual master. If I had an older beetle with a single I would replace it with a dual for safety factor.

Mike N Scarlett2012-05-26 16:53:46

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