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I am beginning to think I made a huge mistake on this MG. Just as I had it running great I noticed a bearing making noise in the front. While replacing the front bearings I noticed the master cylinder was leaking and so I replaced it as well. I now have an air lock in the lines and cannot get the brakes to bleed. If that is not enough after doing the bearings and the master cylinder the engine is now running terrible. It pops thru the muffler and misses terribly. I adjusted the valves,cleaned the plugs and still runs the same. It is almost as if an exhaust valve is stuck open. this is a new engine with less than 100 miles on it. I also noticed a puddle of oil underneath the car when I pulled into the garage. I am at my wits end and have no idea where to turn.
Thanks guys. I am always very late with a response.I am the caregiver for my 91 year old mother and that takes a lot of my time. Still no excuse for not at least attempting to giving a timely respone to all the help everyone provides. My muffles is a single tailpipe and is very close to the rear apron.I did put heat deflecting material on the underside of the apron to help. As for my engine temp I haven’t gotten the gauge working yet. I am ordering a new sending unit and hope to have that number soon. In the meantime I don’t drive on really hot days or for long distances yet.I don’t want to take the chance of damaging my new engine.
Thanks again to all who responded.I will try to do better.Been a long time since my last post. Over the winter I had the engine and tranny overhauled. It is running (and shifting) GREAT! This car is a ball to drive. Next I will attack the interior. Having a little trouble getting the brakes bleed. Can’t get all the air out. It will bleed fine till I get to the right front cylinder and I lose the peddle again.
Thank you. I had actually figured that one out. Is it heat related? Gas evaporating? I have an extra cooling fan directed toward #3 and 4 head. Temp guage never seems to get past 140.
Been working on TD SPORADICALLY,(summer vacations etc). Just installed a new empi progressive 2Bbl(32/36) and am having an issue. Same issue as with old carb I removed. It is hard to start after I run the car for awhile(warm engine) and shut it off . It run great when it smooths out but very rough on restart. Immediate restarts are fine just not after it sits for awhile. Idles at 900 to 1000 after it settles down. Checked for vacuum leaks and fuel pump cks ok. It has a centrif dist as well( which is what was recommended on this carb). Any other suggestions guys?
Had full synthetic put in last week.Didn’t help much on the grind downshifting to 2nd. Guess I will have to live with it till I just can’t anymore.
I figured as much. I am hoping to try the synthetic this week. I will post on how it works. Also going to get an estimate on upholstery ,tonneau cover,and spare tire cover to match.
Sorry it has taken so long to reply.I have been out of the country for a couple of weeks and could not connect. I have the correct amount of play in the clutch pedal and I do not have to depress it to the firewall completely to shift into first or reverse. I do believe I will try the synthetic as proposed and see if it helps.I did notice the clutch cable had been cut and some type of clamp is used to shorten it. I did some adjusting here but it did not change anything.
Thanks. It upshifts fine. Just grinds downshifting. I hate that sound! As I said there is a sweet spot where if I rev the engine as I am downshifting it grinds less. Isn’t reverse and 2nd synchronizer the same? Shouldn’t reverst grind as well?
The previous builder of my MG had already installed a fuel shutoff valve inline.It helped a lot. The bushing was missing from the steering shaft tube as well. Made no sense cutting corners like that. It made it a nightmare to drive. I knew things were wrong when I bought it though so not really surprised. Still enjoying every moment of it!
Still attempting to adjust shifter. Upshifting ok,but downshifting to 2nd gear not good. No amount of adjusting seems to help. If I rev the engine as dropping into second fm 3rd it seem to help somewhat.
Sold my towbar a couple of years ago(bummer). Guess I will look for another one. It sounds like a good trip. I have a frien I helped restore his 1963 corvair spider. Maybe I can enlist his company.
Thank you. I hope I could get my TD reliable enough for a road trip(or maybe tow it if not). I need to install sheet metal around the engine to help cooling.The previous owner did not and I am hesitant to drive too far too long.
I tried installing the quick shift kit yesterday.I can’t seem to get it adjusted so that all the gears are working as they should. Mostly 2nd and reverse. I took it off and now I got reverse working ok (pushing down on shifter to engage),but 2nd gear still wants to be a bit rough. If I get 2nd working ok I then can engage reverse without pushing down on the shifter and want to hit reverse when downshifting. I reallly like the short throw of the quick shift,just need to keep playing with it I suppose.Thanks again for the tip on the empi muffler (3487). Also,when is the Carlisle,Pa. show you spoke of and is it an annual event?
Spent the entire day attempting to install shift rod into new bushing. No luck. The rod end is too out of round to slide thru new bushing. I tried grease etc and attempting to reshape the rod thru the shifter opening(impossible). Not sure what to do now.
New problem. Po bent the shift tube end out of round and it will not push thru the bushing in the hanger. Is there a way to remove the shift rod? I could ring his neck! There wasn’t even a bushing in place. I guess I now know why!
Thanks. Seems I am saying that word a lot lately. Everyone is so great with information and helpful hints. The rear is carpeted and it is glued down,so my work is cut out for me. It will be next week b4 I can get back to it. I will post my progress then.
Thanks GeorgeHow do I get to the connection. Since the ody covers the access plate on the pan? Do I go from underneath? Sorry I am a real newbie!
Welcome Stephen. I too am a newbie. I am getting so much helpful info here. Everyone very helpful. I like your pic. Unfortunatly I cannot seem to post pic’s of my TD. Evidently I am not very good at computors as well. But I will keep trying.
Thanks. I am attempting to replace my shift bushing today. Since I cannot get to the shift rod at the rear to disconnect it from the tranny and therefore cannot move the rod forward, how do I change it? Also got my new eempi muffler today. i will post how it goes later. You guys have been so much help on everything else I hope you have a fix for the bushing. I could shoot the guy who built this car. It would have been so lsimple to change b4 he dropped the body on!
Took care of sloppy steering yesterday. Previous owner did not install the spacer keeping the shaft centered in the column. Also had a loose bolt where shaft connected to the steering box. My quick shift kit and all bushongs have been shipped from Jbugs in California. Hope to fix that anfd put on the new empi muffler this week. Starting to come together!
Thanks to all. I am still trying to post pics!Happy news, it was a bad muffler! Very happy owner. I am having trouble adding pics but will keep trying. I also have sloppy steering. Will pull gas tank to ck connections. Engine running great. Now on to other issues.
Play in steering ( about an inch)
Shift bushing
When changing gears I feel a slight bump in the body.Any suggestions?
Thanks
Thanks. I will check the rocker and pushrods. It is very loud. I had just adjusted the valves and it was running so well it really has me bummed out. If I do have it rebuilt I will probably jump it to a 1776 or 1835. Maybe I’m just looking for an excuse. I will repost what I find. Thanks for the imput.
