Update – Seems I had the distributor timing wrong. Schu came over today and, taking Roy’s and Schu advice , I makes a 30 degree mark on my crank pulley. Schu open the throttle to 3500 rpm and I was able to dial in the 30 degree mark. Wow – What a difference. No more Pop, Bang, Pow and the car has power. I am still not sure if I don’t have a very…[Read more]

Thanks Schu. I will happily take your cast offs. 🙂 cant do today. Tomorrow might be doable. Stop by or I can make a trip to your garage.

Thanks Ed, I will be checking that out.

I just adjusted the Volume screw on the carb and now it doesn’t seem to backfire in the garage. I could make it backfire by quickly open the throttle (full throttle). I have only the one adjustment screw (Volume) on my 30 PICT 1 carb. Tomorrow I will check the timing again. According to Rob and Dave – I should set the idle timing at 7.5 degrees…[Read more]

A huge Thanks to Royal for spending some quality time on the phone with me going over this issue. I have a few things to check. I will post when I find the solution.

Thanks Ed. I did read your previous post on you trials and tribulations regarding you kit installation. In fact I read the instructions with you post in mind and looked for the shimming instructions. I went ahead and ordered new bearings and races. Looking forward to having discs in the front.

Yeah, having to locate it a little higher on the gas tank/engine cover posses some issues but it is do able.

Thanks!

The wiring harness that you are referring to is a dune buggy type of wiring harness. It does have proper sized wiring for ignition (#10) and for headlights (#12). The fuse box is a regular VW type of fuse block and any busing you want to do has to be done via the wiring connectors on the outside of the fuse block. It is a good option for rewiring…[Read more]

Thanks for all of the responses and information guys. It is good to know what your experiences are!

Yeah Bill, I emailed them today and they got back to me. They will want to know it the car is front or rear engine. I also asked for a picture but they don’t have one available. You can get some idea of what they look like here http://www.abingdonsparesllc.com/catpg45detail.html or on page 32 of the MIGI assembly manual.

According to build manual there were supplied with the kit (maybe an option?). If you want to add them the guys at http://www.prototyperesearch.com/ do have them for $49.00 a pair. I am going to add them just for a little more strength. Thanks again guys. I love this forum!

yeah I saw this earlier too. There are purists who will buy it for points. Nuts!

Hey Guys – Thanks for your input. It is good to know that the fenders are strong enough on their own.

Make sure the gauge is grounded properly. Make a new temporary ground wire and run it straight from a known good ground to the gauge. You could also make up a long wire to run from the sending unit to the back of the guage. Check for power at the back of the gauge.

Update on wiring these lights. The duck bills actually push in and the hole behind the duck bill is spring loaded. You simply push the stripped wire into the hole, once you push back the duck bill and then fold the wire between the duck bill. No solder needed.

Okay. Yeah the one side of the Ducks bill connector seems to hinge a little. Definitely some solder. Thanks for the replies guys!

My first car was a 1964 Microbus. It went to Woodstock in 1969. Drove that thing all over the place. Rebuilt the engine twice. Wish I still had it.

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I really appreciate it. I was planning on soldering my connections as much as possible. I will want some quick disconnects for some of the connections but by and large I will solder.

Found it. It seems to be part of the steering wheel wiring?