Looking really good Jack! I’m jealous of how accessible those adjustment screws are! Looks like you’ve succeeded in putting heat risers on it (though they’re locked down yet). I can’t tell if you’ve added a brace for the center section with the carb or it or not. I think you’ll likely need one. I don’t see much room for velocity stacks though.…[Read more]

Roy, you can get rubber boots in the hardware store’s plumbing department that are about 3-4″ long. Might work, but I don’t know how they’d hold up to heat and gasoline. A bit of RTV silicone would help seal against leaks. Make sure you use some kind of metal brace to hold the center section solidly in place.

Should you weld on pieces to extend…[Read more]

Duplicate post. Sorry!

Roy, you can get rubber boots in the hardware store’s plumbing department that are about 3-4″ long. Might work, but I don’t know how they’d hold up to heat and gasoline. A bit of RTV silicone would help seal against leaks. Make sure you use some kind of metal brace to hold the center section solidly in place.

Should you weld on pieces to extend…[Read more]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>The tube is 2″ inside diameter, unless I’m mistaken. A 2.25″ hole would be a fairly snug fit, while a 2.5″ makes for easy installation.</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Paul, I was going solely from my experience on my early FF and my 69 pan which had the original battery mounting tabs removed. The rear shelf height…[Read more]

The tube is 2″ inside diameter, unless I’m mistaken. A 2.25″ hole would be a fairly snug fit, while a 2.5″ makes for easy installation.

Paul, I was going solely from my experience on my early FF and my 69 pan which had the original battery mounting tabs removed. The rear shelf height could also vary from one kit manufacturer to another, which…[Read more]

That center mount would give individual, equal length runners for a 48 IDA – but would not allow you to use a factory alternator/generator stand nor shroud. I’m not sure what it’s application would be, other than drag racing…

I modified my Scat shroud to add the vanes, thermostat and Hoover bit.

I need to adjust both my doors – they are sagging and rubbing the bottom door jamb. Unfortunately, the stainless steel screws have fused over the years and I’ve been unable to loosen them. I kicking this can down the road, since I’m facing the very real possibility of having to drill them out to fix it…

I hope people are using Never Seize when…[Read more]

FYI – You can buy a venturi ring and install it on earlier shrouds. I’m running a Scat doghouse shroud (with heater tubes), the larger VW fan, and installed one of those venturi rings on it. It provides a similar function as a carb velocity stack – it smoothes out the airflow at higher RPMs since the air no longer has to travel around a 90 degree…[Read more]

Eddy, that addition of larger fan and the vortex ring on the new shroud likely increased your cooling air flow at least 20%, perhaps as much as 25%. Good move, IMO!

Roy, I suggest you fold your strip of inner tube to make two layers or flaps. Put the fold to the outside, and fasten it to the body. Then take a dull screwdriver, paint stirrer,  putty knife or similar and carefully work the bottom flap down underneath the engine tin. Leave the top flap laying on top of the engine tin. This will give you…[Read more]

If you can get heat risers working on your intake, I suggest you do so before you start trying to tune your carb. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust, make sure it has the holes drilled out to allow that heat flow to occur – most do, but I’ve seen some that don’t, requiring me to drill/ream the hole out.

I like velocity stacks, they contain…[Read more]

Allen, if you put it under the seat, it needs to be inward close to the tunnel. The tube for the heater box must go outside, near the door – where there’s enough space on that rear panel for the holes. Yet, the tubes must pass by the arms on the rear torsion bar so they can’t go outboard all the way to the sidewall.  I suggest you deal with your…[Read more]

Note the caveat on the air-cooled.net article you cite — “that have all the proper cooling tin in place.” Most TDrs do not – they lack the tin and rubber seals/flaps that keep the hot air that is exiting the bottom of the engine and the exhaust heat out of the engine compartment, allowing thahott  air to be sucked in by the fan and recirculated.…[Read more]

My 2 cents:

1. The single 40 IDF will likely require a lot of tweaking to get running satisfactorily. You are still facing the issue of no heat-risers on a center-mount carb with unequal (and long) distances from the carb to the heads. But, that IDF is far, far more tunable than the Bug Spray. Suggest you “study up” on the transition circuits and…[Read more]

When I popped the distributor cap off, after the engine died, to check the points (to see if they may have moved and closed the gap) I found the condenser so hot that it would almost burn my fingers. I had already changed out the usual culprits of spark plugs, points, even etc. After that, I always replaced points and condenser at the same time.…[Read more]

I have. Symptom was intermittent spark/firing after engine warmed up. Right after starting, when engine was cool, it ran fine. The longer it ran, the worse it missed until the engine died. The condenser would get hot to the touch – I suspect it was breaking down internally due to heat buildup.

IMO, you are smart to take those ads with a grain of salt. VW engines are essentially very crude by today’s standards, designed for simplicity and long-term reliability in adverse operating conditions, rather than performance or efficiency. Even by standards of their day – and the basic engine design dates to the mid-1930s, they were very simple…[Read more]

On my old VW FF TDr, you need to remove the gas tank to get access to the back side of the master cylinder. There should be either clamps or straps (or both, depending on builder) holding the fuel tank down…