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well folks,
finally got around to tackling the generator. went to change it out, but, decided to do some more checking around, and, it turns out that the brush on the lower side of the generator was stuck.
took it out, to find that the bracket that it slides in and out of had been mashed down on the brush.
opened it up, so the brush would slide freely, cleaned both of them up, and, it charges great, so, i’ll be returning the one I bought.
well folks,
I was finally able to get back to the car, and, noticed that it has a red indicator, but, don’t know if it is for the generator, or, the bright lights.
hope to actually get started on it tomorrow evening.
ok, just got back from putting it back on the lift so that the generator job won’t be so low to the floor to do, plus, with a little looking around, my car does have an idiot light for the generator, I think.
there is a red indicator light, but, I don’t know if it’s for the generator, or the bright lights. there is only 3 though.
the part number I have is an advance auto part number, and, you might want to see if there is a shock with these dimensions, without the dust cover. these have dust covers, and, some coil spring removers won’t work with these shocks. I bought a set, and, had to modify them to work, and, still made a couple of small dents in the dust covers.
look up 5819 st.
also underneath that number is 28-80309, possibly the Monroe number, but not sure.
there is a “p12178 c3” at the bottom of the label, and, “0 48598 04193 7 underneath the barcode.
it was in a Monroe box.
hope this helps.
thanks for all the information.
wound up getting another generator,$50, from napa, with a 3 year warranty, and, just haven’t had time to install it.
coming soon, though.
Disconnect the generator from the regulator (probably easiest to simply take the wires off the generator).
Connect a jumper from DF on the generator to the generator frame. Now run the engine and measure the voltage from ground to D+ on the generator.As you increase the engine speed, the voltage should jump up to +35 volts or so (@3000 RPM).
If it passes this test, the generator is good.the only lights I have are the turn signal indicators.
so does this mean that the tech article isn’t totally correct?
Disconnect the generator from the regulator (probably easiest to simply take the wires off the generator).
Connect a jumper from DF on the generator to the generator frame. Now run the engine and measure the voltage from ground to D+ on the generator.As you increase the engine speed, the voltage should jump up to +35 volts or so (@3000 RPM).
If it passes this test, the generator is good.no problem with the battery, couldn’t get off the key fast enough. it runs fine, belt is in good shape, has tension, and, turns the generator as it should, just not getting anything from the generator, and, as per the tech article, I figure that the generator is done.
I haven’t messed with the voltage regulator, due to all the generator issues. after sitting overnight, it was completely dead, with no output, so, I figure I need to start there.
you can’t regulate what you don’t have.
did more testing today, it’s dead, so I just ordered a replacement for it. I won’t be driving it that much, so, I just didn’t see investing in the conversion.
gonna start the teardown, tomorrow evening.
when I flashed it, I was using a totally different battery, and, it didn’t turn very fast, and, I had to get it started.
also, it did make some slight rubbing noises that seemed to be at a certain spot.
mine has the fuel pump already removed, and, an electric one added. I can get a replacement from my local napa store, pretty cheap, and, do I really need the extra amperage?
I thought about getting some new brushes, but all this vw stuff is new to me, and, don’t know what all is involved, but, did watch some you tube videos on changing the generator out.
I went with Monroe sensa track shocks, with stud ends on both ends, but, don’t remember the part number.
well folks, I was finally able to get some replacement shocks that actually fit the car as they should, properly.
couldn’t seem to find any coil over shocks within the right range of specs, for this car.
I was able to get the passenger’s side in, yesterday, and, hope to get the driver’s side in today. I do have some work to do, removing some of the fiberglass, where the top stud sticks through the floor of the area behind the seat.
it was no fun reinstalling the one that’s in, due to the space constraints, and, the fact that I didn’t remove the axles, but that’s ok, live and learn.
hopefully, this will help the rear sag, as, it is just a small amount of sag. if not, I’ve been doing some digging around to see what would be a suitable fix, relatively cheap, to raise it up.
pictures coming later today.
got the driver’s side to match the same angle as the passenger’s side. had to elongate the mounting hole for the inside pivot, but, it worked.
I know that the shocks are bad, and leaking oil. I can push them all the way down, they stay there, then pull them back up.
I can also stop anywhere in between.
I can get a set of coil over shocks rated to 1,200 pounds of extra load, and, figure that is enough to hold the rear. it’s not like it’s gonna be a daily driver.
