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Yes I already did. David in post #308981 provided the same link. My serial number breaks down to be November or December of 1969.
Thanks Paul. What’s strange is that the vin I have is NH04001. It has been used for the last 35 years. I have some history that shows that. It is a number assigned to the car from the state of NH. I think the very 1st owner of the car was from NH and he went to the state to get that vin number. Just wondering why they didn’t use that number on the tunnel.
Maybe it’s a state thing because the car is actually a pretty much new car assembly.I have no idea what you’re getting to. I just want to know if the serial number on top of the tunnel is the VIN number
The number I located on top of the tunnel would that also be considered the VIN number? If no one knows the answer I guess the only way to find out is if there is a member her that has a 1969 VW bug sedan to locate that number on theirs and compare it to their known VIN number.
If that is not the VIN number then who assigns a number and when? Is it the manufacture as it rolls off the assembly line?
Thanks Bill. But those wiring diagrams are for the entire car. I was looking for a simple wiring diagram of the ignition system. Something showing the battery, coil, distributor etc.
I had a similar problem. My low beam headlight did not work. What I found was that there was some corrosion between the tips of the glass fuse and the holder preventing electricity to flow through. You should take each fuse out one at a time and clean the tips and the holder with steel wool or sandpaper then snap them back in. Do this one at a time in case you have different size fuses.
The speedometer never been hooked up but it’s on my list to do
You say you have other gages not working so it may be a electrical problem. I purchased my MIGI two months ago and at the time, the low beam lights did not work. After a lot of troubleshooting I found the problem. On mine under the dash on the drivers side I have a strip with all the glass fuses. The one for my low beam headlight had some corrosion between the tips of the fuse and the holder. Could not see it with the naked eye. Removing and reinstalling the fuse 2 or 3 times made good contact again and now my lights work.
You should remove each fuse one at a time and clean the ends of the fuses and the holder with a fine sandpaper or steel wool. You may get luckyWhat is wrong with your gages? Are you talking the speedometer and the tach? If the Speedo doesntwork I may be able to help you. I just fixed mine. Do not try to remove the bezel by prying it off. You will destroy it.
Using your chart and if I read it right, mine was built in December of 1969. Is that right?
The number under the generator stand is:
H5351754. I don’t know if that can be broken down as to what I have for a engine.Thanks David.
I removed the passenger side seat bottom. Then I was able to peel back the carpeting exposing the top of the tunnel. From the shifter mechanism, the linkage access cover is back about 18”. They had put a very thick coat of something all over the flooring and tunnel. I look real close and right in front of the access cover hole, it appeared to maybe be a number. I scraped of the costing material, wire brushed it and sure enough, there it was.
This is the number: 1102421833.I did call those two shops back about 6 weeks ago. They both gave me estimates of $450.00 to $500.00 plus parts. No way would I do that. Thankfully I was able to remove the bezel with no damage at all, make the repair and reinstall it. Only one number is off slightly but I’m good with at
No I didn’t. This morning the numbers in the odometer were 30997. The 0 and both 9’s were out of sink. I took it off for a ride and all four numbers on the right had to rotate. All the numbers are now in decent alignment . One of the 9’s is off. So I’m going to keep this speedometer. Hopefully in time it will correct itself.
I don’t want to try and zero all the numbers by using the manual button on the trip meter. I’m checking the fuel mileage using the trip meter. I’ll try what you recommend. Thank BillWhen I was working on it, I accidentialy slid the shaft out a little which hold the numbers for the odometer. When I finally put it back together, there was one number that wasn’t aligned with the others. Stupid me. Well I could live with one number being off a little. So I put on about 40 miles today and now they’re 3 numbers not aligned. The trip meter is working fine. Now I need to decide do I keep this
original speedometer or go to plan B and Install the new one.
Keep I’m mind the new one, the numbers are a slight different than the original and it would sit right next to the tach so they wouldn’t match. What to do now!!!!We’ll, as I figuired, the repair guy couldn’t take it apart without destroying the bezel. I called VDO and at one time like 15 years ago, bezels were available through VDO but not anymore. There is no way to remove a bezel without destroying it or at least at a minimum it would end up being warped so bad it would look like hell.
I did chuck it up in a lathe and was able to take a skim chip on the crimped part of the bezel. I took off about 0.005” and part of the crimp came off. This allowed the bezel with the glass to come right off also.Thanks to billnparts he sent me a Email with pictures showing what he had found 15 years ago when his stopped working. Mine was almost the same issue but not quite. At least I knew where to look. I made some adjustments and got it working. I used a square point bit in my cordless drill in order to spin the speedometer.
Keep in mind that the crimp/raised flange on the housing was still there. That flange keeps the assembly from being pulled through the hole. So I reinstalled the assembly and took it for a ride. YES. Now the odometer and the trip meter work again.
Using a clear silicone i cemented the glass into the bezel. Now it’s just a matter of cementing that assembly to the dash. It will look perfect like it never was taking apart.if anyone has a 3” VDO mechanical speedometer and the odometer and trip meter doesn’t work, let me know and I can help you.
Thanks again Bill
Figured it out. When I looked at the fuse block originally, all the glass fuses looked good and they were. I traced the wiring as far as I could. Noticed that the wiring was a certain color for the low beam. Went to the fuse panel again, located which fuse was on that certain color wiring and removed the fuse. Swapped it out for another one. Did this a couple of times and they started working. The fuse was good but what had happened was that some corrosion had apparently built up under the contacts of the glass fuse. Everything is now good.👍
I took it to a repair shop this morning about two hours away south off Boston. The guy who is suppose to work on it just left for vacation and will be gone all next week. There was another guy there and I asked him if they had a special tool to remove the bezel without destroying the bezel. He didn’t know but said that the guy would never destroy the bezel. He would mail it back to me before damaging it.
I figuired out on what to do if I get it back not fixed. The housing has a small lip all around it and that’s what stops the gage from going through the hole in the dash. All the bezel does is hold the glass. I figured I could chuck up the housing in a lathe and on low RPM machine off just enough of the edge of the bezel so I can easily pop it off. Then after making repairs and the speedometer is back in place in the dash, then using silicon I can glue the bezel in place to hold the glass. All done I hope my repair is the same as yours Bill.
I have to wait to see what the repair guy is going to do.We’ll I was able to get the speedometer out of the dash. The next thing is getting the bezel off without destroying it. I’m sure they crimp the outer edge after it’s all assembled. I sent Bill an Email looking for advice. Any ideas here?
Mine are located inside the cab which would be to the left side of the drivers left knee sorta under the dash
I received the new switch today. Should there have been some type of gasket or should I put some pipe dope on the threads?
Thank you for the help. I’m going to call Dick’s maybe tomorrow and possibly get some kind of quote. If I like it, the next thing will be getting it out of the dash. It is buried behind wires.
<p style=”text-align: left;”>I plan on using jack stands. In fact the rear right now is on ramps and the front is on jackstands. Thank Paul</p>
<p style=”text-align: left;”>I did see that tires with wide whites walls are almost twice the cost of black walls. I guess there isn’t a big demand. So I think I’ll stick with black walls. Thanks guys.</p>
