Welcome to the forum George. I’m at the central NJ Shore.

As far as parts go, no MGTD Kit is currently in production. In fact, I only know of one company that produced a TD variant that is still in business, but they have been sold at least once and haven’t produced a TD replica for over 20 years. They have no parts left and I think their molds are gone too.

There is a place in Miami, FL that’s called MG Magic. They have a personal storehouse of MGTD replica kit parts and their inventory and price list is posted on another thread on this forum. They have no website, only a phone number, probably a basement and shed operation.

There are several British Sports car aftermarket suppliers that can provide some of the hardware (mirrors, handles, etc.), Moss Motors is one. Keep in mind that except for the British Coach Works TD replica, only one of these replica cars are true to the original TD shape or dimensions. Get your wallet out for this stuff too, it ain’t cheap.

The headlight buckets are a standard Hot Rod item and are probably available from a source like Speedway Motors, JEGS or Summit Racing.

If your front splash pan is split, you probably have a Classic Motor Carriages/FiberFab car.

So, if MG Magic can’t help you out and the part is not readily available, you are going to have to improvise.

I recently paid over $1,000 to have my bumpers, bumper overriders and grille shell re-chromed. The grille shells are no longer available, so this was the only route. When they were available from Moss Motors, they were well over $700 anyway.

As far as tops and side curtains go, keep the old ones for a pattern and get them made locally.

I guess your car is a front engine car? Is it a V6 or I4…sounds to me like you may have a Chevette based car, not one based on a Chevy Luv or S-10, but who knows? You need to send us some pictures so we can help you out.  

Hi George,

It sounds like you have the entire top frame. The larger hoop forms the rear edge of the roof. The smaller hoop mounts to the large hoop, angled towards the windshield, and forms the peak of the roof over the driver and passenger heads.

George,

I found a couple other helpful pictures for you.

There is a picture in Hobbyjim’s folder, showing a top frame, with no top on it. So you can really see how the frame goes together.

And there is a good side view in the Robert gallery folder, which shows both roof bars.

Hello George

My experience with carpet is that it’s always better to use the old for a pattern. You can then take it someone or cut out some yourself.  Be aware that most auto carpets are formed to fit over the tranny hump, foot well and sides so that a flat piece of carpet cut to the pattern may still not fit well. You can form the carpet to fit these areas your self with a little work and time.  I’ve had good luck with other vehicles by simply stretching or forming the carpet over some scrap wood, lightly spraying the back side with water, then holding the formed area while drying with a hair dryer. Check for fit, redo as needed. Oh, be sure to leave lots of extra room at the edges so you can trim exactly to size after the areas are formed.  This is what the auto shops do and you can save mucho $$$ doing it yourself. After fitting, place padding and glue or screw the carpet in.

As far as ordering ready made like you can for many cars, the TD replicas will have variable size tranny humps, foot wells, etc.,depending on the make, so it very unlikely you can find it anywhere other than maybe MG Magic in Florida. Give them a call, you might get lucky.

Good Luck and have fun with your new toy!

Ringo

That’s pretty cool Larry. Are you able to use the side curtains too?

George, if you are considering Larry’s approach, check carefully what the final height of the roof will be. If I lowered my roof two inches, I would no longer fit under it.

Also, you will need straps to hold the front bar at the correct angle. One for each side, they wrap around the front and rear bar. Think “seat belt webbing” for the roof. On my Duchess, one end is sewn and slides over the rear bar. The other ends wrap around the front bar and have velcro, so you can adjust the tension when the roof is up. And you can loosen it, without letting the bar fall all the way forward. This removes tension from the roof when raising or lowering it, which makes it easier to attach/detach the rear snaps.

Hi,

I’m up here in Dunstable, MA on the NH border. My dad-in-law lives in Wellfleet and that’s about a 125 mile trip. There are now at least three of us in MA (RobBaker is on the north shore up near Plum Island).

I have a FiberFab as well. Check out my photos. Mine has a Mustang V6. Can’t wait until spring!!

Let’s hear about progress you’ve made and let me know if you have any more questions.

All the Best!

Rich

Hi George, Rich and Rob, I’m Leon down here in Hingham on the South shore. Be happy to help any of you out with your TD’s. I’ve had a couple and presently own a red VW based car I purchased off Ebay. I’m also in need of parts and advice. Hope to help