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I have a number stamped in the case just below the generator stand. Is this an id number? It’s stamped AE834925. I’ve been absorbing some of the old post in this forum trying to learn a few tips about the aircooled VW. Gee, some of you guys go waaaay back.
Yes. That is the engine number.
AE is a 1971 or 1972 1600 cc dual port. And maybe a 1973. These two site disagree on the 73 (one says yes, one says no).
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php
http://www.lightner.net/ybdb/serno.html
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks. I was pretty sure it was, but either didn’t search the right website or gave up too quickly so I decided to ask the “PROS”.
Are the dual port heads that much of a performance item when equipted with two 1bbl Webbers (as mine is)? Would the progressive Webber 2bbl be a better choice?
All Webers and Dellorto are 2 bbl carbs. I supect you have the dual 40mm Solex carbs that are commonly called “Dual Kadrons”.
These carbs perform well on a stock or mildly warmed up VW Type 1 engine. They are easy to rebuild and tune. Much more low end torque than the single carb Weber/Holley progressive 2 bbl.
Stock dual port heads make more low end power than the single port heads, but are restricted by the valve size. A set of aftermarket dual port “042” heads have larger valves and produce more power for smaller displacement engines. They also use a long reach spark plug.
Check out my photo gallery for the 1776cc/042 head/Dual Kadron set up I used on the the first Pink MG, now Bill Collins “Angelica”. The biggest performance improvement was the use of a Pertonix Ignitor to eliminate the points/condenser and the Pertronix Blast coil.
Use of big bore barrels, hotter cams, big valve heads, dual carbs require the used of the set of headers that used to be called “Extractor Exhaust”. The 2 and 4 tipped Monza style systems won’t cut it with these mods. These mods also require modifications to make the oilling system into a full flow set up with a remote filter and a deep sump kit helps big time. Remember, air cooled engines use the oil for cooling too, not just lubrication.
The Weber/Holley progressive 2 bbl will produce slightly better gas mileage than the Dual Kadrons, but not the same enhanced performance.
If your engine is bone stock with the Dual Kadrons, I’d do the Pertronix Ignitor and Blaster coil, use a good set of 8mm spark plug wires, a good quality cap and rotor and drive the car the way it is.
Pink MG39953.4481597222
I’m waiting on a front disc conversion to arrive in order to drive the car. When I bought it, I was only able to drive it on my trailer because the front drum brakes were out. While anxiously waiting I decided to due a tune up because the car sat in a garage for several months. In order to get to #3 spark plug I pulled the carb off that side and it said Webber on the side and it’s only a single bbl carb. The previous owner was not the builder and new less about VW’s than I do, if that’s possible.
I have also ordered a ceramic coated performance extractor that looks like a glasspak muffler and I guess the next step is the distributor. Do you prefer the pertronix conversion over a billet electronic distributor?
The oil pump cover is finned aluminum that also has the filter on it and it has “Claude’s Buggies” cast into the housing. Would this be a full flow system?
Also how do I access your photo gallery? Under Photo Gallery in the index I could only find 1 photo of your car.
Up at the top of the page, there are several links. To the right on eh second line is the “Photo Gallery”.
Click that.
The next page will look like a list of forum members. But each name is a link to that person’s photo gallery. Click PinkMG for Mark’s gallery.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
The finned, cast cover on the oil pump is NOT an indication of full flow oiling. There is a “plugged” boss area adjacent to that cover that needs to be drilled and tapped for a hose fitting. Some blocks have a small freeze plug there. If you don’t have that port drilled tapped and an oil line hooked to it, it’s not full flow. A remote filter plumbed into that fitting is the indication that the block has been modified for full flow.
There are also oil pump covers that have an oil filter attached. These also are NOT full flow. But are a step up from the screen on the drain sump.
As far as ignition goes, whether you have a vacuum advance or centrifugal advance distributor, the Pertonix Ignitor and matching Blaster coil would be more than sufficent for street driving. They make a Pertronix II now, which requires a Blaster II coil. Again, for street driving the original Pertronix and Blaster coil are more than adequate. There are also 8mm plug wires available from BugPack and other manufacturers. The billet distributor is really overkill for street driving.
I use Royal Purple 20w-50 in my Type 1 engines. This is by far the BEST synthetic oil on the market. Air cooled engines have larger tolerances and require a thicker oil. Ever notice they get quieter as they warm up?
Can you post some pics of that carb set-up? Or e-mail them to me at pinkmg@verizon.net
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