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My car has the worst door latch system for a car ever, and I have been researching my options. AutoLoc Bear Claw latches seem to be the best available, and they are the right size. 4.625 x .75 x 1.0. Has anyone tried them, or has anyone found something better than the old screen door latches the car came with?
I WILL be making a change this summer, and I need guidance.
Greg
Your doors fly open on the highway, Greg? The latches you have now differ from the TD latches? I ask ’cause Bridget’s driver’s door seems a bit loose. I’m thinking maybe I might adjust them, or replace them if that doesn’t work.
Greg I had the same trouble I just adjusted the lock strike plate with some thin brass stock and moved it in and a 1/16 inch out , the bottom hinge needed a shim also ,now they all work fine . better than buying new
I have also seen sliding bar locks used . Dan RThe issue is that the bolt, that part that actually holds the door closed, is VERY stiff, and will not engage the striker plate easily. Forcing the issue by slamming the door will only crack the fiberglass, which we all know is VERY bad. I ordered the new latches yesterday, along with the new striker plates. These actuators are well known in the hotrod community, and set the standard for everyone else. I know that I will be hand crafting a few parts, those that open the door for example. Pictures will be many on available when the time comes.
We do not mind being so close to the ground, but we do object at the possibility that the slightest bump can cause the doors to pop open. We also know that the seat belts will only keep our bodies in the car for identification in the event of an accident. It’s like driving a four wheel motorcycle…. fun, but you have to be alert at all times.
THAT is why I am changing the door latches.
Greg
Try this link. I ordered the Manual, small unit
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc =bearclawdoor
Greg
Greg, I’m glad someone is looking into this problem and finding a fix. The fact that our doors open from the front makes it VERY important that they stay closed. My London Roadster has very light weight striker plates but at least they do have a second latching point. I like the look of the original MG latches on my BCW, but am amazed that Morris Garage used a latch that has only a 1/4 ”depth striker plate and no second latching point at all.I have been intending to look into some sort of backup latch [deadbolt] but do not want to look tacky. Please keep us up to date on your progress.
Good luck Greg. It’ll be intersting to see your results.
That said, I’ve been driving my Duchess since 1983, with the original style TD latches and have NEVER had a door pop open.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I have NEVER had a door pop open, sorry if I gave that impression, but I am unhappy with the door lock assembly. And since I have been building/restoring, or otherwise altering cars for over 50 years, I am confident that I can handcraft whatever parts I will need. At first blush, it does not look that difficult, but then again, neither did getting married.
Fiberglass the doors shut and climb in
Sorry…couldn’t resist.
My VW based TD doors popped open sometimes, luckily at very slow speeds, usually pulling in a steep driveway or parking lot. The car probably twisted slightly and one door would open depending on whether I was turning left or right.
I was actually thinking of staying with my silent traveler latches but adding suicide door poppers and actuators I saw on one of the hot rod sites as electric door locks. With a convertible top it won’t do much fro security but would and a little additional safety. Mine has popped open a time or two as well although adjustment has lessened that
Just took a look at mine, while waiting for the brake sender switch to come in. I know this is a dumb question, but the latch part on the door is supposed to end up in the hole on the striker, right?
I ask because, on my strikers–and I’m pretty sure this whole assembly is stock TD stuff–the latch on both doors is going to a little notch. The drivers’ side one is pretty worn. That’s what I was talking about in the above post.
But in looking at them today, I see there’s a nice round hole right behind those notches, about a quarter inch inboard. The holes look to be the perfect size for the round little spring-loaded metal dowels that latch from the door handles.
So I’m thinking that the guy who put the car together did this wrong–that there should be two spots on the doorlatch that could catch the little dowel thing. This would be more like a modern car.
I tried adjusting the striker–it looks to be shimmed with quarter-inch thick squares of fiberglass–but couldn’t get the bolts to back out and couldn’t rightly get a wrench behind them to grab the nuts that I think must be turning.
Anyone have any experience with these? Am I on the wrong track entirely here?
Yes. And it’s not a dumb question. If you haven’t seen a proper assembly, it’s reasonable to ask.
The spring loaded dowel on the latch is supposed to be seated in the hole when the door is fully closed.
The “notch” is just a secondary safety stop, in case the door pops.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks a lot, Paul. I think I’ll be able to make that right without resorting to Moss Motors.
My BCW door latches are latching in the hook like Ed ‘s car. Perhaps the BCW factory assemblers thought the latches were designed that way . When I got my car the locks and striker plates were already attached but the doors were not installed to the body. When I mounted the doors ,the right side lined up perfectly,latching in the hook. I than shimmed the left striker to do the same and have been thinking what a poor system and hoping that the doors stayed closed.
Thanks Paul for informing us of how they are supposed to be set up. That will be my next project.Looks like I will need to shim the lock on the right door and remove the shims from the striker on the left side.
I’ll feel safer once I get it done.
Larry, I’ve started another “door latches” thread, to document my attempt to get this right. So far I’ve taken the driver’s door striker off, drilled and tapped two of the (four) shims to put behind the fiberglass box these screw into, to reinforce it and make reassembly easier. I cannot imagine how any normal man could have reached into that little gap and put a washer, lock washer and tiny 3/8-inch nut on all four of those bolts. With two pre-tapped plates I’ll be able to install just the nuts on the ends.
Anyway, got it all back together and . . . doesn’t latch. Breaking for lunch now, hoping to sort it out after. Pretty sure I can’t be off more than a millimeter or two. Will post photos tonight, come what may.
I’ve had doors pop open while autocrossing…took rubber hood latches and installed as door locks. Doors can’t pop open now.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"
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