Brake Fluid

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  • #234722
    Jonathan Annear
    Participant

    @bigband39

    What does everyone here use for brake fluid in their VW kit cars?  I went to investigate a leak in the system of mine and found the 25 year old brake fluid to be almost black.  Do older VWs take some sort of silicone based brake fluid that would be this color?  I was planning on completely draining the system and replacing soft lines and filling with new fluid.  Although the pedal goes to the floor, I can’t see any leakage in the system.  Guessing wheel cylinders but didn’t have enough time today to fully investigate.

    #256339
    KentT
    Participant

    @kentt

    VWs didn’t come with silicone, but who knows for sure what a previous owner may have done.  

    The fluid is likely dark because it has attracted moisture over the years and the steel parts of the system has started to rust.  Recommend you plan on adding a new master cylinder and four new wheel cylinders to your shopping list.  

    I’m going through the same drill on mine right now.

    Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
    Slowly coming back from the ashes...

    #256340
    Jonathan Annear
    Participant

    @bigband39

    Because of the different shape of the body and fenders of the MG, does this change the way or make the replacement brake components any more difficult?   Any suggestions to a newbie? I have everything coming in tomorrow (shoes, cylinders, master, flex hoses). Hoping to complete the job within the week. 😀 BIGBAND392013-06-06 12:50:37

    #256341
    KentT
    Participant

    @kentt

    BIGBAND39 wrote:
    Because of the different shape of the body and fenders of the MG, does this change the way or make the replacement brake components any more difficult?   Any suggestions to a newbie? I have everything coming in tomorrow (shoes, cylinders, master, flex hoses). Hoping to complete the job within the week. 😀

    You may need to remove the gas tank to get to the two bolts on the bulkhead/front of floorpan that hold the master cylinder on – I did on my FF kit.
    But other than that, it is just like a normal Bug repair.  When replacing the master cylinder, just start those two bolts loosely, then attach all the brake lines, then come back and tighten the two mounting bolts down… 

    KentT2013-06-06 13:29:11

    Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
    Slowly coming back from the ashes...

    #256342
    edward ericson
    Participant

    @edsnova

    Master cylinder replacement can be tricky, depending on how the car is designed. Mine has a void beyond the pedal cluster but behind the firewall. I sawed an access hole to get at the push rod to adjust. I could have removed the gas tank but thought my way would be easier.

    The master cylinder itself should be pretty visible and accessible. Two bolts, two flare nuts; done.

    Good luck.

    #256343
    KentT
    Participant

    @kentt

    LOL — Ed and I posting at the same time.  Accessing the master cylinder is the biggest challenge…

    Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
    Slowly coming back from the ashes...

    #256344
    Dale Schumacher
    Participant

    @schu

    The bleeding is always the hardest part – try it the normal way first and make sure you bench bleed the master cyl or you will be sorry. If you cannot make it work let me know and I can show you how to make a cheap pressure blessed that works great and you can do the job yourself. I tried to bleed for hours unfilled I went this route and 10 minutes later I was done.

    #256345
    Dale Schumacher
    Participant

    @schu

    Sorry – auto correct phones are a pain at times – I think you get the drift.

    #256346
    Paul Mossberg
    Keymaster

    @pmossberg

    Bigband,

     

    With the design of the Duchess front end, you do not have to remove your fuel tank.

     

    The master cylinder is easy to get to on your Duchess. It’s in the stock location. You can see it from outside the car, behind the left front wheel. Access to the bolts is from inside the trunk compartment.

     

    Brake fluid reservoir is also inside the trunk compartment (at least it is if the builder followed the assembly manual).

    PMOSSBERG2013-06-06 15:12:33

    Paul Mossberg
    Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
    2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

    If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

    #256347
    Jonathan Annear
    Participant

    @bigband39

    After dismantling the brakes, I found that wheel cylinders have no leaks and they and brake shoes are new. Still, they are 30 years old. Should they still be replaced? The brakes hardware was rusted, broken, and will be replaced. I’m also replacing flex lines and the master cylinder due to the fluid color. Are lines from the external reservoir to the master just standard rubber hose?

    #256348
    billnparts
    Participant

    @billnparts

    After 30 years the fluid would have absorbed a lot of moisture and those wheel cylinders are probably pitted on the inside. You can take them apart and check or just throw new ones at it. You’re doing everything else, they would be a minor addition to your repair.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    #256349
    crash55
    Participant

    @crash55

    I would use braided fuel line for the lines at the master. clean the reservoir out with alcohol. bleed until the fluid is clear at all 4 wheels. braided stainless steel hoses will give a nice firmer pedal.don’t forget to clean up &put a good amount of never seize on the adjusters

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