> Dick,

>

> Regarding your conversion, I will say that a BCW is probably the finest

example of the TDrs and is most worthy of true English knock-offs.

>

> If you already have hubs with a 4x100 pattern, you really are almost there.

Triumphs used adapters that simply bolted up to your existing brake drums.  They

used special nuts that were rounded on both sides.  These nuts fit nicely into

the donut shaped recess built into the basket of the wheel.  This is very

important so as to allow the inside of the wheel basket to properly center

against the flare of the adapter.

>

> Some things that you may want to consider:

> Are the 15" wires that you are considering 48 spoke wires?   In my opinion,

the 48 spoke wires are marginal (regarding strength) when used with radial ply

tires.  You may recall that radial ply tires did not exist until the 1960's.  If

they are 48's then I think that I would keep looking for some 60 spoke wires

(Austin Healey 15" & MGB 14") or possibly some 72 spokers (Triumph Stag 14").

If you do go with 48's then I would take corners carefully.  You should also

note that none of these wires were tubeless.  There may be someone that makes

tube type small 15" tiires but I do not know of any.  Therefore, you will be

using tubes, most probably in tubeless type tires.  I do not think that this is

a problem because our cars are light and not capable of speeds over 80 mph

therefore there is not a great amount of heat generated.

>

> Be advised that you need to be careful of the condition of the splines - both

in the wheels and on the adapters.  Unfortunately, I have no measure to judge

the condition that I can relate in an email.  Regarding the adapters and the

knock-offs.  Be aware that there were two different threads used,  Early

adapters and hubs were fine toothed, Later (most all) were coarse toothed.  All

used right hand threads on one side of the car and left hand threads on the

other.

>

> The only problem that I encountered in the conversion (I own a VW based TDr)

was when I went to put disc brakes on the front.  They would not clear my 14"

wires and required a significant modification before I could get them in since

original VWs were 15" wheels.

>

> My last advice is that you need to be careful about the condition of the wire

wheels.  If you can, Install one of the adapters on the front of your car and

mount each wire on it.  Spin the wheel (tires are not necessary).  Then check

the axial and radial runout.  If you can get it within 3/16" you are good.  1/4"

a bit excessive.  More than that, keep looking.

>

> The cost of having a shop balance and true the spokes is excessive, and if you

can afford it, you might be better off buying new wheels.

>

> If you are lucky and get a set of wires that have not been abused, you will be

very happy with the look.  I am sure.

>

> My entire conversion, not including tires cost me about $200, but I stole the

wheels, did all the machining myself and would say that if you can do it for

$500 -$800, you did very well.

>

> Give me a call if you want.

>

> You really should post your intentions on the forum.  Some member may have

some adapters or wires available.  Or know where there are some - it's how I got

mine (Allen - newkitman, knew of a guy that had some)

>

> If you do post, I may post this email as a response, or you can if you want.

Good luck.

> --

> Roy 

Lastly, the 15" wheels from an AH-100 & 3000 and all other British cars that I am familiar with (Sunbeam,

Singer, MGA, Morgan, Jensen Healey) as well as 14" MGB are interchangeable and use the 

same spline.  Most/all Jag wheels use a larger spline.  I think that my old Bugeye had 13" wires.  

Many of the lesser expensive cars with wires were painted vs chrome.  They look great also and some say 

that they are stronger. (I'm not sure that I believe that.)

Your existing wheels are proper period correct for TDs and look great.  Why not just put 

the correct hub caps on and call it "done".