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So, I joined this group 2 years ago because I was getting a
VW based ???55 MGTD. My brother had it in his garage in Virginia since 2002 and
he hasn???t had it running since 2004. So I was visiting his and asked about the
car he said if I get it running its mine. Well I went down got it started with
plan???s to pick it up sometime November 2013. Well as things happen I was being
deployed to Kosovo with the New Jersey National Guard I had to put it off. I
Got back from overseas and retired with the Military after 35+ years now it was
time to get the car! Drove back down to Virginia, rented a trailer and towed it
home in August. I got the thing running pretty well but knew I???d have some work
to do after not running for 10+ years.In Va. I bought a new carb, fuel filter, fuel lines, and cleaned the tank best
I could. When I got home I finally got the car running pretty well , did an oil
change and drove around the neighborhood to see about how the brakes were and
anything with the bushings and shocks to get the kinks out.So one of the first things I wanted to do is remove the fuel tank to really
clean it well there was crap all in it and re route the fuel line. The line came
out the bottom of the tank and ran across the battery, didn???t like the setup.
Now being a helicopter maintenance inspector came out and I keep finding stuff
that should be fixed. So one thing will lead to another and so on! With the tank removed I noticed the
speedometer cable rubbing in the steering column. Oh and I noticed after
removing the piece where the tank sat I found a mouse house..sheesh.So again with the start I have a lot of things to do and am loving it, I will
try to upload pics. But I do have a question or two?????? Whoever glued the tank in
place used a ton of some sort of silicon and it looked like a 5 year old did
it. Is there a special silicon that???s used? Or just good ole fuel resistant
stuff?Now I???m trying to find what year the VW Engine is and there are NO numbers on
the motor I can find. I know a set of numbers belong stamped on the motor just
below the alternator mount. So is there another way to find the year?Sorry for the long post but I figured a re introduction with what happened is
in order
George, Welcome.
Please post more pictures and someone will be able to help you. From the one on the trailer, I can tell you that it is not an Allison, nor a BCW or a Daytona or a London Roadster.
On the engine, no numbers? Well, if it’s a dual port then it’s a 1971 or later. If it is a single port with dual oil reliefs, then it is probably a 1970, 1600cc. If it’s a swing axle, then prior to 1969 and most likely not a 68 since only certain 68 super beetles had IRS. If it’s a 68 0r 69 then it’s probably a 1500cc unless it has been rebuilt. (all these assume that the prior owner didn’t get creative)
I would recommend buying a new fuel tank to save yourself a lot of future headaches. Only a bit more than $100. And I would recommend strapping the tank in place vs glue.
Have fun.
Royal2015-09-20 21:26:22
Welcome! Based on the fuel tank area, it appears to be a FiberFab. The gas tank should be mounted with clamps/brackets on the front and rear – two each, as I recall. Luckily, you can download the build manuals here, though you’ll likely find that the builder did some creative DIY things!
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...It has a single port intake, although this is my first VW so I’m still learning to figure out what things are, I’ve been a mechanic all my life. The fuel tank was mounted with clamps AND held down by silicon. Looking at the cars pictures on here I assumed it was a Fiberfab. Although my brother had the car he bought it off they man who had it built. According to the title it was built in 1988 and has a Sticker on the cooling shroud “Chassis by Cargem” and has another sticker on the door “Assembled in Michigan. There is more paperwork that my brother has sent up in the mail I forgot at his house.
Welcome back George.
Thank you for your service!
I’m on board with the others here…likely a Fiberfab.
Is the a badge on the grill nose piece?
Is there anything at all stamped under the generator stand?
I got this info off TheSamba:
Replacement cases
These cases were VW engine cases that
were sold from VW but never issued in an actual
production vehicle. All are dual-relief cases with
100mm oil passages.Example (click the image for a larger pic):
Information from a 5/73 USA service bulletin issued
5/73:Engines with the re-manufactured symbol, a letter, a
number and ending with X, indicates a VW Exchange
engine. Before Oct., 1968 the X was not stamped
onto the block.From April of 1972 Shortblocks were sold with the VW
remanufacture symbol followed by a letter. No numbers
were used, you were to stamp in the old engine number.Exchange engines
These engines are normally marked with a VW recycle
symbol and an X at the end.Information from a 5/73 USA service bulletin issued
5/73:Engines with the re-manufactured symbol, a letter, a
number and ending with X, indicates a VW Exchange
engine. Before Oct., 1968 the X was not stamped
onto the block.From April of 1972 Shortblocks were sold with the VW
remanufacture symbol followed by a letter. No numbers
were used, you were to stamp in the old engine number.PMOSSBERG2015-09-20 21:18:25
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
There is nothing stamped on the case below the generator mount. Just the firing order on the generator mount, no letter’s nothing….maybe the case was after market rebuild?
GeorgeB, I’d say it’s definitely Fiberfab, no doubt about it. It looks almost exactly like mine in several details. Most important, the inside of the “hood” (underneath the gas tank and where the battery is located) is exactly like my Fiberfab. And I mean exactly. My tank was also held down in that place with clamps. The windshield stanchions are the same polished aluminum, I have the same shape of top, and there is no bump on the running board ahead of the rear fender. Mine has the FF logo molded into the body in a location that is not shown in the “underhood” photo but it’s just beyond the edges of the photo.
The front wheel doesn’t look right … like it’s too far to the rear.johnsimion2015-09-20 23:22:30
Same as my car, too. TD emblem. Looks like a twin, aside from color, except the builder carpeted the entire inside of ‘bonnet’ or hood.
Oh, and I’m guessing you meant ’52 not ’55. 🙂Tank was only bolted down, with carpet glued around edges. Nothing like silicone there. Don’t know if you had removed anything other than tank but mine has a shaped/formed fiberboard that sits under the gas tank with a gas resistant area below the outlet pipe.Brake fluid reservoir seen in your picture is mounted on left front side on mine. A floor and walls added with the carpeting over it but reservoir is outside so is accessible.My speedometer cable runs along top of gas tank shelf on drivers side.I also have a blank codeless engine, just a flat place below the alternator pedestal and those firing order numbers.Thanks for that info, Paul!Although I’m still confused as to exactly what my engine really is. No doghouse cooler on front of fan shroud.That’s something else to look for GeorgeB. If you’re fan shroud has a protruding shape opposite side of the engine bay you’ve got an external oil cooler.Mines just basically flat, with internal cooler, as I understand it. Aside from some metal forming variations anyway.LRH2015-09-21 05:04:07
GeorgeB,Check the download manuals tab on the left then select Fiberfab. You can download the assembly manual and that will help with the steering, speedometer cable, battery and gas tank issues. Actually, being you have a Fiberfab kit it’ll help across the board.Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackI believe that not-factory-original engines had their serial numbers stamped on top of the block and can only be seen with the cooling shroud off. Something to look for next time you have the shroud off. Mine is that way and I really don’t know why the motor has been substituted. Probably a case of gathering parts need to build the kit at the wrecking yard.
Runs good though. 🙂I’m guessing that he has an aftermarket replacement engine block from Brazil or Mexico.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...A type 3 engine case (VW squareback, notchback, fastback) has the engine serial number stamped on the split-line of the case along the top. Its hidden under the engine tin. When you use a type 3 engine case and type 1 cooling tins then you see the engine number. Could be one of those.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackThank you all for the advice and tips. I have lurked on this site for weeks just reading the manuals you have and the techy forum. I have been a helicopter Mechanic/Supervisor for almost 40 years and this VW thing is very new to me, so if I ask what you mean please don’t take it personally I just really dont know but am willing to learn! 😛
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