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Soooo … I finally got back my chrome, and reassembled and reinstalled the grille, reinstalled the new (Tripod) headlights, and even figured out how to get them centered between the fender and the grille. So far, so good. Today I rewired my headlights and they are working fine. In fact, all the electrical stuff is fine except for the driving lights, which were fine before I did any of this, but now they don’t work. This is Murphy’s Law because I never even touched the wiring for the driving lights!
I noticed once or twice that jiggling the wires around under the hood caused the driving lights to come on … once, anyway, but it didn’t last. When they were on, they were fine and the LED on the switch was lit up as intended. Now that they’re not working again, the LED is off. My first thought was fuses, so I inspected them closely with a flashlight 3″ away, but the fuses are all fine. Didn’t really think it was fuses anyway, with the on-off experience.The connection seems to be very simple. Light A wires to Light B, and there is only one wire coming out of Light B. That one connects to power (?) but the connecting wire is only about 3″ coming out of a conduit. It doesn’t move much and appears fine. I checked the wiring of the driving lights themselves for evidence of a broken or rubbed wire, but the wires seem quite solid all the way through and it’s not like any parts of them are hidden. I even cut and reconnected the one connecting wire from Light B to the power, thinking there must have been a bad connection. No dice. I checked the switch and everything is solidly in place (as expected, because it was fine before and I never messed with the instrument panel wiring in the first place). I know there must be a broken wire somewhere, but doggone if I know where else to check. I hate to rewire the thing and have that not work, either. I guess it’s back to the guy who wired my car unless you guys have some suggestions.Bolted to the badge bar, which is bolted to the frame. Like I said, they were fine before and if the badge bar is the ground, the driving lights have not been moved or touched at all. I guess I’ll just get all-new wire from each light to the power source and that pretty much HAS to be it, there must be a broken wire in there that I can’t identify. That is the only way I can possibly explain why they came on briefly while jiggling the other wires around.
The quickest and easiest is to hook up a temporary jumper from the + terminal of the battery and connect the other end of the jumper to the hot lead at or near the lights. If they light, it is a hot wire problem, possibly the switch. If no light with the jumper, then the problem is a bad ground.
You noted that the LED on the switch was not powering on as it should when driving light switch turned on. Assuming power + to LED is common to driving lights it sounds like either switch is defective or power wire to switch has fault. You can use test light to verify if you are getting power to switch and also test that contact in switch is closing when switch is activated. You may still have a bad ground but ground wire to to light and ground wire to LED are not likely the same wire. You can test ground wire with VOM meter by setting to resistance then connecting one lead to – post on battery and other to ground wires at LED and driving light
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineIf you do not have a VOM you can use your test light instead by just reversing the leads. Connect one to the + post on the battery and the probe the ground connections at the LED and the driving lights. Only problem I have with using test lights is that you are creating a parallel circuit and can sometimes be misled by the results
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine
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