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Is there a proper way to raise the MG to replace the backup sensor? Ramps or jack? I do not want to stress the body connections to the metal frame. I don’t believe there is way to access the sensor from the inside. MG has an air cooled VW engine, if that has any affect on the situation.<span class=”Apple-converted-space”> </span>
ramps would work . jack stands on the tubes where the torsion bars are . make sure your wires & connections are good 1st to be sure it is the switch
Thanks for reply. I am assuming it is the switch because the bulb is good. Looks like a tough place to reach and change the switch from the bottom. Wonder if the switch be reached from the inside. Car in storage now and will look inside next time I check the car and follow the wires. Basically a push-buttton configuration type switch. If I cannot locate a replacement, I may be able to improvise.
Check the connections before replacing the switch. Grounds are gremlins on TDrs.
Also make sure the car is actually shifted into reverse. When I was putting together my Spyder the backup light gave me a heart attack when it wouldn’t work despite my shifting it into reverse to test. I checked the light, the wires, connections and even the switch itself; no joy. I thought reverse gear might be fouled up inside the transaxle….
Then I rolled the car in gear and watched the flywheel. Turns out what I’d thought was solid reverse was just second gear again, because my home-made shifter linkage bracket (it’s a cable shifter; everything is backwards on the Spyder compared to a Bug or TDr) was allowing a tiny bit of deflection.
Welded up some new junk to the bracket and Bob was my uncle.
Obviously your car’s linkage is simpler. But do check to make sure reverse is engaged before proceeding with the other stuff.
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