Thanks for the photos Will, of the Volvo and your e-brake  work.
I’m sure you are fully aware of this, but it bears mentioning anyway…when you weld in those new pans…remember there is a fuel line running along the bottom of that center tunnel, usually along the right side of the tunnel.

PMOSSBERG40185.0070717593

Mark and Paul, The volvo we just did the 4.3 Vortec conversion with was a 1959 PV 544 Just like this one I copied from on the web. This is not our car but is ironicly the same color. The mechanicals are all done and she runs “mean” but she still needs paint and interrior. We did set her up with 6 way power seats out of a chrysler lebaron, which…[Read more]

In this one you can Barely see the end of the tubes where the cables come out they will line up perfectly with the underside of the e-brake mechanism.  I ordered the floor pan halves and I mis-spoke in my previous post they were $150 per side not total. Thats ok when we are all done it will be a complete frame up restoration. I hope to have the…[Read more]

Here is a picture of the access hole under the inspection plate and the new e-brake hole in front of it. you can see the brake tubes make sort of a “Y” on either side of the shift linkage. I did kink one of the tubes somewhat ehen I rerouted them but the cables are so much smaller then the tubes they still move without resistance. I cut the tubes…[Read more]

Here is another shot showing where I removed the e-brake from, which I will have to patch of course and the e-brake sitting over the new hole

Ed, Thats why this site and club is so great it was your info that led my couruosity to take the chance here are the first few pics and still a ways to go. This photo shows the e-brake sitting in the new position nothing has been cleaned up and welded yet but this is where it will be
Washington Will40183.3845833333

I would like one also. As in the other post, just need to know how
much and where to send it.

Paul

Will, in 1960’s, I built a Volvo B18 with 289 Ford V8/3 speed automatic.
The donor was wrecked ’66 Galaxie 500 XL. I had a retired mechanic neighbor who was Volvo nut. I bought a B18 roller (no motor/trans) from him for $200. I paid $200 for the engine and trans at the local junkyard. Those were the days!!!
I’ve always wanted to find a nice, r…[Read more]

The HP that the K&N “gains” is all in the high RPM range…say near redline RPMS.
But, Geoff is correct, the beauty of them is that you can clean & re-oil them forever (almost, that is)!
There are other brands available, but K&N elements are the benchmark in reusable filters.
The K&N webstie lists dimensions of all of the their filters…all the…[Read more]

Great Monte! Now you’re rolling!

The “red” and “blue” books by Robert Bentley publishers are/is also a must have, depending on the year of your Beetle donor.
These and the John Muir books are available at Barnes and Noble, B. Dalton Book Seller, Amazon.com, etc.

Hey Bill,
Did you actually win or did one of your students mug a lottery agent?

Will, this is huge. Thanks for showing the way. I will save this thread–and the forthcoming photos–as a “how-to” for the job. I actually didn’t know about the inspection plate back there. Great to know there’s no need to go big with the hole, and sounds like you’re using the original bracket too. So (not counting the new floor pans) you’ll have…[Read more]

  K&N adds a little HP which is great, but most of all you never need to replace them. I am still looking for the right size K&N for my Holley.   It sounds like your engine bay will be looking good. If you find any other good dress up parts let me know. I am trying to find a metal timing belt cover to replace the stock plastic one. Also I am th…[Read more]

Great news Will. My Duchess has a bench seat so moving the e-brake is not an option. But I look forward to your pics anyway. Always more to learn.
And I know the Volvos well. I learned to drive on a 1966 122 station wagon. And I currently own a 2009 S80, 2009 C70, 1999 S80 and 1996 850. The first two are my and my wife’s daily drivers. The old…[Read more]

Ok well I was able to cut the tubes that guide the e-brake cables without cutting any additional access holes in the tunnel. I was able to access the tubes from the hole I cut in the top to mount the e-brake. The two tubes run along the sides of the tunnel and form a “Y” as it passes the inspection plate and heads toward the rear tires. I cut the…[Read more]

You go, Will! After that Volvo project, the MiGi e-brake relocation should be a piece of cake. I’ll be eagerly awaiting word of your progress, and hope it’ll help me know what to do when the time comes (next winter, maybe).

Thanks for the help.   Threaded the holes and put in plugs.   Header is on, just got get a piece of pipe reformed at the muffler shop and reconnect the exhaust. 
Montie

Paul you are right when cutting on a frame you do effect the integrity patches must be of sufficient guage and welded back in properly. My buddy and I just restored a 59 volvo (looks like a stretched out beetle) and we put a 4.3 chevy vortec V6 with a 700r4 trans in it we also replaced the rearend with a ford ranger rearend that we cut and…[Read more]

Ok well I took the cut off tool and cut a piece out around the e-brake about 2.5″ x 7″ and was able to lift the E-brake handle right out. as you stated there are two tubes with the brake cables inside attached to the bottom of the peice I removed the tubes and cut another whole in the top of the tunnel to the rear of the shifter “1.5 x 3” this is…[Read more]