Good news! Congratulations.

Jack, now would be the time to consider opening up the horizontal portion of your cowl above the pedal assembly. If you would ever need to get to your stop light switch or pedal bushings, whatever, it will beat laying on your back through the door opening working blind by feel. (Can you tell I’ve been there?)

Looking good though. Keep it up.

Today was a good day.  I have had the car registered exactly 30 days today and I finally worked out carburetor issue (poor idle) due to poor fit of new intake manifold)  I little massaging with hammer fixed it- it just did not align like removed one.   So I took her for a 20 mile drive and she did well.  There are still many things to do but it w…[Read more]

Fiberglass work SUCKS!!

Well, I recently learned where my talents DO NOT lie — I HATE FIBERGLASS WORK!!!!!

…But it was finally time to get the firewall sealed up so that I could get on with putting the rest of the car together and also get the wiring finished and the dash installed.  But what a royal pain in the butt…..

And even…[Read more]

That is good advice.

You should also probably wear a N95 dust mask to minimize the amount of crap that you inhale. I know I fail to wear one all the time when grinding metal or fibreglass, welding and/or spray painting and am congested with foreign stuff for days afterwards. Not good for your health either.

This forum is a wealth of information. I too am having the same issue with Jeeves interior. I also have a multitool and I wonder why I didn’t think of this. I tried it out last weekend and it works like a charm. Keep a vacuum or dust collector handy though.

Yeah, slow is fastest, and don’t push the tool. This thing is new to me too (got one for Christmas) and it’s a damn revelation. Just makes a lot of formerly hard things easy, and several formerly impossible things also easy.

Tried out the multi-tool with the rigid scraper blade this evening and …… it works. I tried one of the rear wheel wells that has been particular troublesome – compound curves.  Finding the proper angle was exciting! Took a thin layer of gel coat off. I slowed the tool down to less than half speed and the cutting was actually seemed quicker.…[Read more]

Thanks for wire wheel info.   That is definitely something I’m going to think about.  Really appreciate all the info and I’ll be back with more questions.

If you do use the TRxx splined hub adapters for mounting the wire wheels, you will be able to use any of the standard full size (MG, TR 2/3/4 and Stag, and I think Morgan) 14 and 15″ wheels.  MGB wheels are 14″ as are Stag wheels.  Most if not all the others are 15″.  XKE Jag wheels use a different larger spline and are not bolt on.  How to mak…[Read more]

At your service.

Roy actually pioneered the wire-wheel adaptation. Use Triumph TR2-3 adaptors, drill and tap your VW hubs @ 4 x 4.5 to accept the adaptors. Screw short bolts in from the back to use as studs—I used lock washers and red threadlock. Then install the adaptors and the knock-on wheels as normal.

Any and all wire wheels will push out t…[Read more]

edsnova    I looked at some of your photos.   It looks like you widened the car and installed wire wheels.   I would love to know how you mounted the wheels as well what you used.  My car will not remain yellow and I am not afraid to make mods prior to paint.  I have and extra set of 15″ E type wire wheels removed from my other car that I would lo…[Read more]