Ed, would meeting you in Linthicum Heights at 8:00 be ok?

I’m in and should be drinking coffee with Roy on the Hilton patio overlooking the ocean waiting for you all to arrive — but in the mean time I have to hustle to get the front end (torque tubes, ball joints, etc) finished and a few miles of test drive on the new parts…

…Looking forward to seeing you all next Friday. (long range forecast is…[Read more]

So with my tank filler being on the driver side front what would be the downfall of the tank from parts geek, Part Number: 17321-05442102. Thanks.

Looks like Lois is out due to lack of wives joining in – so solo.

Who else is now in?

Timing – I am going to take the day off so can meet you guys coming down from the north on 301 or other anytime you guys plan for…

Hope the weather holds out. Looks to be cooler next week

Not necessarily, depends on which way the hood (bonnet) opens. On mine the hinges are on the driver side of hood so access to the filler on the passenger side makes sense

Mine is located on the driver side. Is this unusual?

Filler is located on the passenger side of tank

Filler is located on back passenger side on my MiGi

———————:
: () :
: :
: :
: + :
———————-
() filler
+ pipe to feed fuel line
I know a pic would be clearer but….

So the filler neck on the older tank is on the front driver side?

They all want the earlier tank because the filler neck in the later one is laid down to accommodate the external fuel door. You can use that one in a TDr but you’ll have to relocate the filler neck as described. If you need an new tank it’s easier to get the older style tank & shorten the neck. Sometimes you get lucky and don’t even need to mess…[Read more]

Gary
You have posted you have a MiGi TD, if you look at the two tanks on the http://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/subcategory/vw-fuel-tanks site for <68 and >69 you will note a difference in the tank configuration. Suspect that MiGi body design was engineered to use a <68 tank so maybe a >69 will not fit in space for tank. I have a MiGi on a 68 chassis…[Read more]

Gary
You have posted you have a MiGi TD, if you look at the two tanks on the http://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/subcategory/vw-fuel-tanks site for <68 and >69 you will note a difference in the tank configuration. Suspect that MiGi body design was engineered to use a <68 tank so maybe a >69 will not fit in space for tank. I have a MiGi on a 68 chassis…[Read more]

Why an early one 61-67 and not a 1970, the year of the donor? Thanks.

Oh I forgot to add that a photo I took of the steering wheel has an FF in the center of it. So perhaps it is a FiberFab. Ill check the inside cowl too when I check for serial numbers!

cheers! steve

Thanks for all the generous input everyone! Really fantastic information, advice, cautions, links and winks.

I understand that a car such as this is a big hobby – a labor of love I think. I could use a hobby, and I don’t want a motorcycle.  I have not run the car. It was under a tarp. Mostly it looks clean, floor boards seem good – solid. Motor…[Read more]

Sounds like a stock VW coil arrangement. The green wire on the coil is on the negative (-) side of the coil and goes to the condenser on the distributer. Positive side of the coil will typically have two or three black wires connected to it depending on the year model. One black wire runs up to the fuse panel, one runs to the fuel cutoff solenoid…[Read more]

Just over one week away. Timing issue has yet to be resolved. Pick an arrival time you want and I’ll adjust my departure time accordingly.

Just get the early one–61-67. You might need to cut the filler neck down a couple inches. Test fit carefully, scribe it and then take it to a muffler shop to be cut and welded before you clean the Cosmoline out. They’ll charge you $20 or $30 to do it. Maybe less you you tell them what it’s for and come in with a six-pack.

Note: don’t buy the…[Read more]

Look carefully on the coil. One side has a +

Look for the same problems you would look for in a VW Bug of the same vintage. Rusty floors are a typical problem, and fixable. sloppy shifting (bad bushing, a $3 part, several hours of fiddling to get to it). Electrical gremlins, which are usually loose or missing grounds. Steering bits. Gauges. Top fitment and condition (you’ll use it,…[Read more]