Ed, surely you know that these aren’t really problems…..only challenges.   Something to have fun with and keep us out of the bars.  🙂

More tin is better. You can seal the top of the motor from the bottom/exhaust with a little ingenuity. I think Jack’s car has rubber flaps.

Bridget has small gaps at the sides but ran cool enough (according to my Gene Berg dipstick thermo-warning device) no matter what. And the engine still does, according to the guy what bought it from me two…[Read more]

More tin is better. You can seal the top of the motor from the bottom/exhaust with a little ingenuity. I think Jack’s car has rubber flaps.

Bridget has small gaps at the sides but ran cool enough (according to my Gene Berg dipstick thermo-warning device) no matter what. And still does, according to the guy what bought it from me two years ago…

Great observations — and good idea John about starting a new thread —

I guess I’ll switch to synthetic oil AFTER I check out my engine cooling system….  Thanks John for the citations and references and Kentt, great observation on how we TDr’s (and the companies who made the kits) tend to not pay attention to proper engine tim and engine…[Read more]

Nice work and a great lesson to everyone: First, look carefully at everything from every angle, THEN decide the most efficient way to fix!

Would that I followed my own advice more often.

Sorry to hear of your trouble, Jack.

I add my endorsement to the idea of not removing the thermostat and air vanes. Thing to do with those is tinker with them until they work right.

I doubt that your carb is what made your temp go up. Unless the carb was leaning you out at 70 mph, yout temp went up because of an air flow issue. Look for…[Read more]

Hi  David,

It was great meeting you at Carlisle and I hope the trip back up North after our Rainy Carlisle Outing was uneventful and fun!!

I have not had experience with the CB Performance 34PICT replacement but everything I hear about CB Performance is good.  I was asking John at AIRCOOLED.NET  about getting a Redline Weber Carb kit and he st…[Read more]

Hey Kentt —

I appreciate your 2 cents — I’ll check out the spring, the vanes and the thermostat — and take your advice about leaving that system intact….

As to the center mount, the intake manifold that is included with the Weber has provisions for the heat risers — but apparently they were misplaced some years before and were not in…[Read more]

Both doors installed and close completely without the door catch/plate. Tomorrow I’ll finish putting her back together. If the Lift The Dot kit comes in tomorrow as advertised, I’ll start the top installation. Our silly weather guesser say it might rain tomorrow. Hope so but I doubt it.

Both doors installed and close completely without the door catch/plate. Tomorrow I’ll finish putting her back together. If the Lift The Dot kit comes in tomorrow as advertised, I’ll start the top installation. Our silly waetherguesser say it might rain tomorrow. Hope so but I doubt it.

Allen, if you put it under the seat, it needs to be inward close to the tunnel. The tube for the heater box must go outside, near the door – where there’s enough space on that rear panel for the holes. Yet, the tubes must pass by the arms on the rear torsion bar so they can’t go outboard all the way to the sidewall.  I suggest you deal with your…[Read more]

Note the caveat on the air-cooled.net article you cite — “that have all the proper cooling tin in place.” Most TDrs do not – they lack the tin and rubber seals/flaps that keep the hot air that is exiting the bottom of the engine and the exhaust heat out of the engine compartment, allowing thahott  air to be sucked in by the fan and recirculated.…[Read more]

My 2 cents:

1. The single 40 IDF will likely require a lot of tweaking to get running satisfactorily. You are still facing the issue of no heat-risers on a center-mount carb with unequal (and long) distances from the carb to the heads. But, that IDF is far, far more tunable than the Bug Spray. Suggest you “study up” on the transition circuits and…[Read more]

Good point Allen — I do have a doghouse cooler on this engine — so the engine temp should be more stable and even.  I also have a #3 cylinder temperature monitor so I can tell how hot #3 is and then extrapolate from that how the whole engine is doing heat wise.  That monitoring setup is leftover from when I had the 2332cc engine in the car, bu…[Read more]

Kall. After I elongated the holes and got the door to close properly, I removed the nuts, lock washers and flat washers, one at a time and inserted an extra piece of sheetmetal over the screws and reinstalled the hardware and torqued them good.

Paul et all. The passenger’s door is less of a problem. I still had to remove the door but not the…[Read more]

I’ve been through a very similar sequence refitting my doors and latches with some success.  I would suggest installing a piece of flat steel or angle iron behind the side of the body where the hinges bolt in.  This provides a solid place to drill and tap in for the hinge screws so they will stay where you put them.  That area is accessable fr…[Read more]