Welcome.

The diff in your car shouldn’t be hard to replace. Scour junkyards for something of similar widths. Most TD kits utilized the Chevette or Pinto/MustangII. Check the mounting pad distance at the spring, although this would be easy to change. The other thing to keep in mind is the bolt circle of the wheels you’re using. Make sure the axles…[Read more]

Another thing I had to address was the car looked like it was lower on the passenger side when looking head on at the front.  The chassis measured level so I know it was not the suspension.  I suspect the original builder did not pay much attention or maybe built it on an un-even surface.  There was about a 2 inch difference on fender to tire ga…[Read more]

Thanks for the info Edward.  The crush cage has some surface rust on it, but I don’t see any cracking.  But maybe I should sleeve it anyway.  As you will see in some of my future posting on this project, I actually shortened the steering wheel shaft (after the crush bushing) so I could have a little more “belly room” by having the steering wh…[Read more]

There’s always more to do, Mike.

While the tank’s out, make sure you inspect the steering column crush cage minutely. These are great safety items but after 50-60 years they tend to crack from metal fatigue—particularly if they’re not perfectly in line with the rag joint and the steering box…which they almost never are.

You never see it. At l…[Read more]

While tearing down the car, I found a fuel filter near the bottom of the fuel tank.  The car had a nice clean one back by the carb, but it looks like this one was here since day 1 of the original build.  Makes sense, as you need to pull the battery tray in order to see this one.

When I emptied the gas tank there was a lot of rust flakes in b…[Read more]