For the record, Roy’s recollection is right: TDs (and TFs and TCs, etc.) had plywood floors. The chassis was steel—it looked like C channel but was actually a rectangular tube that was relieved on its inboard sides. The body panels were framed internally with ash wood—that’s the “wood frame” people talk about and it is hard to repair if it rot…[Read more]

When I go to Jack’s house to work on his TDr, I dress up.  I grew up in and around garages and workshops and I NEVER saw anything like Jacks…..perhaps an operating room?  It’s quite a different experience, for me, not getting dirty when laying on the floor under his car.

This TDr build will look absolutely new, with paint in the most remote a…[Read more]

I’m enjoying you great pictures.  Your workbench is sooo clean!

😀

I certainly agree about Goofoff.  It has serious toxic warnings.  Not really a concern for occasional use but you’ll likely spend hours leaning over the solvent-soaked carpet so you would get a big dose.  The oscillating tool sounds promising.  Also, I have seen roofers use an angle grinder with a wire brush to remove tar-saturated seam tape fro…[Read more]

We thought about using a piece of steel plate I had in the scrap pile, but that seemed like overkill for what was needed….so out came the leftover deck board and the wood saw instead of the steel plate and the  cutting wheel.

And as Ed and Roy pointed out, my Ford-based TDr (still un-named “tribute car”) now has some wood in its DNA — just…[Read more]

Ed’s right.  Those multi-tools are great.  I bought mine for about $20 at Harbor Freight and yes it is a POS but it gets in and works where everything else fails.  When it quits, I’ll give it a nice burial and buy another Harbor Freight one.

I have never really had any luck with Goof-Off.  WD40 seems to work just as good for me.

True.  The tub and the doors were wood “framed”.  Wood floors also as I remember (might be wrong here – I sold my TF-1500 35 years ago)

use a putty knife and a lot of elbow grease; maybe combined with some Goof Off.

Or better: get one of those oscillating cutoff/multi-thingies that didn’t exist 20 years ago and how did we ever do anything without them? They come with a flat blade that’s made to peel construction adhesive, mastic & tile, etc off floors. Should make quick work of…[Read more]

perfectly nice. They say those old MGs had some wood structural components, ya know.

Very good.

What you don’t see, does not matter.

Hey Bill,

The problem is that the flange on the hat is only around 3/8″ wide and the mating flange on the rear is about the same, making it impossible to install per the assembly manual (installed from the inside using 6 ea. 5/16″ bolts and nuts) — only room for #8 self-tapping screws, and barely at that.  So Roy came over and helped engineer a…[Read more]

Bill, assuming that you can actuate the clutch disk (disengage) manually with a long bar or a big wrench applied directly to the arm on the bell housing, can we assume that there is no wasted motion of the pedal and you have the correct pairing of the master and slave cylinders?

We’re pulling for you Bill.

PS. Meant to suggest cellulose as a solvent but again ‘ve careful on polyester resin. D.

Depends on whether it is epoxy or polyester resin. Epoxy is much more resilient to solvents. Methanol should be good on both but acetone may well dissolve polyester so try it on a bit that doesn’t matter to start with. Don’t use nail varnish remover as a source of acetone if you try this as it is oily and nothing will ever stick again! Acetone…[Read more]

Is there any way to re-mount the slave so it pushes on the clutch lever closer to the pivot point?

Or is it possible the pedal isn’t giving enough travel to the master cylinder? Maybe drill another hole in the pedal arm a little lower down…?