Thinking back what I actually did was to use a punch and hammer to push the pin out and then I used a drill and drill bit to clean out the hinge barrel so that the machine screw fit in easily.  I found out the hard way that the hinge pin is bigger on one end (the end that has serrations to hold the pin in) and should be driven out from the small…[Read more]

Jack, my hood hinges are not drilled and bolted, yet. Brilliant idea. I will be doing that.

🤔🙄😁🤣

No, the rear was a bolt in. The MustangII was just a rebodied Pinto. I use three different sets of wheels. My Cragar Truspokes, 14”, push the tires right to the edge of the fenders. The 14” Fairmont wheels require a 1” spacer to clear suspension components and then fit nicely underneath. The 15” Mustang police wheels with the race tires fit rea…[Read more]

…not sure how much of the fender strength is provided by the panels being secured to the down (sides) with those 5/16″ nuts and bolts….interesting idea, though…

As to modifying the hood hinges so that they can come apart to pull the hood off — it was an idea born from some good old- fashioned brain storming —

Royal was over helping me…[Read more]

Very cool idea.  Maybe that same idea can be used at the bottom of the side panels.  Although the side panels would have to be cut at the bottom about the fenders.

More on the Mustang II rear end.  Did you narrow it?  My Chevette rear end is 54 inches and 4 bolt.  The Mustang is a little wider.  Did you have the same issue?  My wheels are at the outside edge of the rear fenders now.  Adding a 1/2 inch to either side would put them outside the fenders.

Progress, Progress…

One thing I did add after seeing Bill’s work on making engine compartment access easy, is a set of hood hinges that can be easily taken apart to allow the hood to be removed…

I just knocked out the hinge pins in the hood hinges and replaced them with a long machine screw and nyloc nut…may only be worth the effort…[Read more]

Righteously done.

…Looks really good!!  I really like the gauge arrangement…Neat!!

Very nice. I like the new arrangement.

Yes, Jack. Remove the three at the grille and the three at the rear all the bolts under the fender and lift. I was doing it so often and some of those nuts were a bear to get to that I went with the rivet nuts. With a small impact all those bottom bolts are removed quite quickly.

Hey Bill —

I’m gunna have to get me some of those Rivnuts!!

So the fenders stay on and you can lift the cowl panels off the car (after taking the front grill off???)

Could I do the same if I use nuts and bolts per the kit build manual?

(I have just a touch of experience with using Rivets — the electric retracting running boards that I…[Read more]

…or Sunbeam Tiger

Shades of the Chevy Monza V8…lifting the engine to change a spark plug! 😉

Yes, the side panels can be removed leaving the fenders in place. Rivetnuts make that real easy. As far as spark plugs, my only concern is #8, the back one on the drivers side.  Probably have to get him from underneath.

The rear is a Ford 8” from a MustangII. Once I hot rodded the Pinto motor I kept blowing those little rears apart. I already ha…[Read more]