Advice on replicas

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    John Hart


    I’m contemplating purchasing either a kit or a completed

    used replica. Any advice on what is the best buy would be appreciated.

    Larry Murphy


     Hi John, Glad you are interested in MGreplicas. Keep in mind that the following remarks are my personal opinions as well as personal preferences. I have owned a VW based car for fifteen years and it is hard to beat the VW dependability and economy as well as parts availability, but having recently aquired a BCW Chevette based car, I really like the authenticity  and the overall quality of the front engined car tho many items are harder to access for service or repairs.Unless you can find a kit that has never been finished you would probably would come out much better to buy a completed car. That way you can drive it and hear it run for yourself.Be careful as far as the title to be sure it is acceptable in your state. Compare any car you consider to the cars on this site in the  photo gallery ,proceed with caution,and you will find yourself with a toy that will bring lots of fun and enjoyment for years to come. Larry Murphy40125.6167824074

    Dan Rosa


     OK ,,now you will have the time of your life ,it is just as much fun looking as it is Finley getting one ,there is not one  better than the next they are all 30 years old, most are home made so build quality is different. Chevy , ford,or VW,power  or a new Miata kit, there many unfinished kits on EBay ,Hemmings and many other sites the hardest thing is finding one you can see in a  reasonable  drive close by ! use common sense, and luck!! When I bought mine I had not seen the car or met the seller and took a chance and it worked  out fine the car was as stated a never finished TD , .. So john take the chance and you will win.. but remember it is just like school do your home work !!!!




    Owned my Ford TD for 20 years and I keep improving on it. The front suspension fron the MustangII is the suspension of choice for street rod builders and parts and upgrades are readily available from a variety of sources. The 2.3 ford engine is almost bulletproof, and parts are plentiful from old Pintos to mid ’90’s Rangers and Mustangs. If you are creative, the 5 speed trans from various models will work and rear assemblies are plentiful. If you really want to have fun, build a Ford.

    Bill Ascheman
    Fiberfab Ford
    Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
    Autocross & Hillclimb
    "Drive Happy"

    Gene Jenkins


    I have a BMC Chevette based car and a Fiberfab Pinto based car. The BCW is a much more faithful reproduction then the Fiberfab. It is also a sturdier body. I think that the only really good looking VW based kits are beach buggies, but that is a personal thing. A TD was a front engined car and I believe a replica should also. However, that being said, the bottom line is having fun with your car and a VW based kit is just as much fun as one based on Fords or Chevies. I left out Miata based cars as I believe that kit is a TF rather than a TD. I would love to have one of those, because I think the TF 1500 was the best looking car that MG ever built. Second choice would be a Ford based BCW kit.

    If you’re in Florida and want to compare, come take a look. The Chevie will be for sale soon if you’re interested.

    Mark Hendrickson



    To my knowledgle, BCW never made a Ford based car…Chevette and VW only. Most of their Chevette based cars were “turn-key” vehicles given as prizes in a Schweppe’s Beverages promotion. They did sell a few Chevette based cars as unassembled kits and turn key units that were not related to the Schweppe’s Contest. The rarer VW based BCW kits were sold mostly as unassembled kits, but there are some out there.

    Having had VW (CMC), Ford (CMC) and Chevette (BCW) based cars, I prefer the front engine cars too. The BCW is the truest TD replica, the Ford based CMC kit is not. If you are not interested in looking as close to authentic as possible, then you won’t need a BCW car.

    The Ford based cars can be hot rodded a lot easier based on the availability of aftermarket stuff that is mainly used by streetrodders. The one I started to build, but sold, had an 8″ Ford rear with a 3.55:1 posi, hot rodded Buick 3.8L V6, beefed up TH200R4 transmission, tubular front suspension, coil overs, fuel cell, etc. I was trying to build a Cobra killer.

    If you can’t find a BCW, the next best to look for is a Classic Roadsters Ltd. (NOT CLASSIC MOTOR CARRIAGES) Duchess.

    As Larry Murphy warned be absolutely sure that the vehicle’s title is transferable to your state. I’d try to avoid VW based cars that are titled as their VW donor car too.

    Steve Crites



    Something to consider with a kit vs built.

    Most of these cars and kits were made in the late ’70s to ’80s. Most were based on the easily obtained donor frames and drivetrains of the time, VW, Chevette, and Pinto.  I don’t know about where you live, but around here I’ve only seen absolute rusted out hulks that would be a nightmare to bring up to speed, (if you even find one!). If I chose a kit I’d be damn sure I had a good donor car before I even started looking for an unfinished kit.

    If I had the ability to make a frame to fit the kit, I’d probably build something larger and faster and have the completed TD replica to blow out the mental cobwebs that we all get. It’s great for short breaks from my other projects. I for one am very glad I got a completed car. …Most fun I’ve had in years! 


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