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Hello from another new member from North Alabama, only from the “Free State of Winston” this time. I just purchased an older never-completed Fiberfab TD replica. serial number 801367-6. New member, but old in age, young in spirit. I am a recovering British Sportscar restorer. I had a Daytona MiGi (VW chassis and engine) years ago, but sold it. Always wanted to build a front-engined version, so now I got a chance.
I have no idea which chassis I will choose, right now I am just lurking and learning, considering all the options. Plan to spend a lot of time on this forum reading and looking at all the build histories. I appreciate all the information on here. Cordially,Tom Bartlett:-)Good to have you here, just sorry I won’t be of much use to you since I’ve never built any kit car.
Have a place on Smith Lake at the east edge of Winston County along the White Oak branch. Hope I see your car on the road or at a show/cruise-in someday.BobLRH2016-05-27 00:44:48
Welcome to our group!
I have a factory made London Roadster, so I don’t have a “kit” car myself, but there are LOTS of members who do, so this is a GREAT site to find answers to just about ANY question or problem you may have.
We like to see pictures of your project as it progresses, too.
Again, GLAD YOU’RE HERE!Amor Conquista Todo
Welcome to our group Tom. Although I have a VW based TDr, as to what chassis to go with, I’d pick the one that has the better availability off parts. You can go Ford Pinto or Chevy Chevette. I just don’t know which option has the best part availability. I’m thinking Pinto based but could be way off. Good luck with you build and keep us posted.
newkitman2016-05-27 09:40:00Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackWelcome aboard Tom!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Good ta meet ya, Tom.
Front-engine chassis is a bit of a muddle, I believe. The kit mfgs included crude ladder frames but the dudes who have built them lately have modded or thrown them away and built their own out of 2×3 or 2×4 box.If I was doing it I’d go Ford and lean hard on Billinparts (AKA Bill Ascheman), who built his decades ago and still races it in hillclimbs. He’s got a good knowledge base on parts availability and what to look for–and look out for.Please post lots of photos and descriptions as you assemble yours. We all get off on that sort of thing, in a Mittyesque sort of way.Summit Point this weekend. I’ll post photos here later, but there will be a few on my Facebook page.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Welcome to the forum Tom. Seeing this thread I just had an interesting thought, is it possible to take a VW based kit and turn it into a front engine kit buy just swapping the body onto a front engine frame? If so do we have a layout of a buildable frame?
In wine there is truth, in water health.
I suspect it’s doable, but I also suspect it would not be easy.
The basic body panels would be okay.But the side panels on bodies intended for VW pans all have flanges molded in that match the perimeter contours of the VW pan.“Firewall” and rear body contours also are molded to match the cross section contours of the VW pan.I think you would have a lot of fiberglass work to do.Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Agreed. I looked at the ford bases kit build manual. Firewall is a big issue.
In wine there is truth, in water health.
Many thanks for the warm welcome. I can see this forum is a great place to discuss ideas. After getting the kit home and spending the day just inspecting the firewall, bottom moldings, and taking some measurements, I can see the problems of converting it to a front engined setup. It really is set up for installing on a VW pan.
That said, perhaps a little of my background shines a little light on my intentions. When I said I was a recovering British Sportscar restorer, I was making light of the years I spent (wasted?) authentically restoring an MG-TD, a TF, and A, a B, and a BGT. I actually met Al Moss in Goleta, California on one of my many trips looking for parts (this was back in the 60s). I guess (no, I???m sure) I got burnt out trying to drive the cars and keep them authentic. I should have just pulled that 1250 lump and put in a Volvo 4-cylinder. And replaced the Lucas fuel pump with an Autolite. Can you imagine trying to use a TD as a daily driver? I did it all the way through graduate school. On the freeways the little engine was screaming its heart out (5.11 rear end ratio!) trying to keep up with the traffic.But the shape of the TD???the lines, the suicide doors, the folding windshield. To me, still the prettiest little car ever made. I long ago lost interest in competing in concours (I???ve been a judge), I just want to drive and enjoy the roadster. But instead of modifying a real TD (not to mention the expense), I got into this kit cheap enough to sorta do anything I wish. So my plans are to build it into a daily driver (may even put in a roll bar) that is reliable and fun to drive. Keep the suggestions coming in!CordiallyTom BartlettVW pan and a Subaru engine can be fun.
I will be working on a rollbar for that too.You may want to look around recent posts on this forum. One of our number has a Volvo’d ’52 with wire wheels.Tom – I happen to have just acquired a Volvo powered MGTD and am in the process of bringing it back to life after 30 some years in storage. I also have a Chevette powered replica. If you do a front engine vehicle, I would not use the Chevette. It was the first GM all metric engine and nothing else GM fits the engine or transmission. It is only about 60 HP, so in that it is very similar to the original MGTD engine. Not enough power. Maybe you could put a Volvo B20 in the replica?
1986 British Coach Works Type 52 (Sammy)
Chevy 2.8 V6, 5 speedricrx7 – I agree. I plan a use a more modern engine..I also like the idea of a Volvo engine. I owned several back in the 70s and 80s and I found them to be very reliable. I have located a 1985 low-milage one (for a Volvo) 4-speed with overdrive, but I am a little apprehensive about tackling the older fuel injection. I just might try backdating the engine and installing sidedrafts, like the earlier cars. Or experiment with a Megasquirt. Lots of possibilities.
Tom
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