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Go to Google Images, search for “MG TD Vintage Racing” and you’ll see a bunch of examples.
It seems most have a single hoop, with rear or front facing supports.
http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=h p&biw=1600&bih=1007&q=mg+td+racing&btnG=Sear ch+Images&gbv=2&oq=mg+td+racing&aq=f&aqi=&am p;aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=1537l3584l0l12l11l0l4l1l0l203l 1015l1.5.1#hl=en&gbv=2&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=mg+td +vintage+racing&oq=mg+td+vintage+racing&aq=f&aqi =&aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=9022l13164l0l16l15l0l0l0l2 l163l1581l9.6&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=e07abde44af0 f9a6&biw=1600&bih=1007
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Thanks for the link Paul.
Does a roll bar destroy the sleeper image?
Today started to work on steering wheel supports. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then some of the group should be flattered.
Uh yeah, pretty much!
And as a practical matter, you will not get a roof over a roll bar, at least not a roof that follows the normal TD roof line.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
“Show bar” roll bars can fit under the canvas, but will do you little good, and maybe even some harm, if you ever do flip it. A real bar will be too high for the roof. I had a thought of making a bayonet mount for a roll bar, but I doubt that would really work without a lot more engineering than I’m capable of. Probably would not pass SVRA inspection either, but with the 215 v-8 in a replica that’s probably a moot point.
Off topic: Anyone here on the East coast thinking about heading over to Chambersburg PA next Tuesday to watch The Great Race folks roll through town? I’m there, and Dr. Clock of the Speedsters is arranging breakfast at a local eatery.
This might give you a idea how to fasten it down in back .This is the way they did mine.
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
Ray,
Were you trying to post a picture? If you were, instructions are here:
https://tdreplica.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1391& KW=pictures
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I tried it twice but it just said that it was loading . then my computer ran out of battery, going to try it again.
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
Spent the last couple of days buried in
Amazon.com: How to Give your MGB V-8 Power (Speedpro) (9781904788935): Roger Williams: Books a great book for the Buick 215 motor, MGB’s and engine swaps. I was unaware of these MGB with V8s. Kinda like the Sunbeam Tiger w/Ford motors in theory. Good book for me.Made up a steering column and steering column drop. Hoping to get the firewall material this week.
Als
o Also moved the steering linkage support bearing to clear the BuickGot an order off to Rock Auto for a bunch of missing engine pieces.
The fuel pump and starter for this engine do not seem to be available locally. Yes its 50 years old.
I’m loving this build!
Thanks for sharing it with us!
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Hi Almost,
I am getting a late start on Forum use. Better late than never. I am the guy with the BCW/Chevette. The pedal in mine are quite close. Especially the clutch & brake. I can’t wear large shoes. Mine work great with Running shoes. It feels like I am driving with racing shoes. It all works well with me. Your layout looks to be able to work fine. Wish I had your V8. My Chevette 4W/2 barrel carb works just fine. Using a V8 with the narrow wheel base seems scary to me. Hope you decide to use wide tires. That over slung weat in front could be quite interesting in cornering. Best of luck, keep plugging.
GregSpending way to much time searching the internet for answers when i want to be wrenching the car.
My research turned up D&D Fabrications: Engineering & Fabrication Services who specialize in the Buick 215 and Rover engines. Talked to Mark today who gave me tons of info on my upcoming engine build. Great to deal with a true professional!
Gotta measure but there is a strong possible switch to a T5 5 speed manual transmission is in the works.Will be starting the firewall as the stainless material showed up. The sealing of firewall to fiberglass is todays google search. How is it done? No answers yet. Answers or photos allways welcome.When I moved the firewall back I gained an additional 3 inches in width in the foot well. I have been looking at different pedal set ups and think I can make what I have work with 3 pedals.
The T5 addition would be “sweet”. It may involve a new rear end. The current drive shaft is only 8″ long,because of the driveshaft extention. (see pics on pg 2) The Chevette came that way. The auto is very small and compact. Just have to find a T5 and do some more measuring.
I have a brand new 8″ Ford center section (pumpkin) with 3.55:1 gears and an Auburn posi. It’s all brand new…zero miles.
The axle’s flanges were re-machined for 5 lug Ford (5 x 4.5″) 1/2″ x 20 studs.
The rear is narrow and was to be used in a Buick V6 powered Ford based CMC MG-TD I started to build.
The housing tubes were changed to 3″ straight tube and have Pinto/Mustang II flanges that use the OEM drum brake set up…or you can use the caliper adpaters I also have for a ’78-’83 GM metric (G-Body) calipers and Lincoln Mk VII rotors (no parking brake with this set up).
The housing was also modified for fill and drain plugs.
The Buick 215 will not add a lot of nose weight to the MG. It is not “overslung”. In fact, it’s only 4 small (1.76L) cylinders long and is no farther forward than the Chevette motor.
It has enough set-back and is only about 24 pounds heavier than a cast iron 4 cylinder Chevette…324 vs. 300 pounds. Keep in mind that these are 3.5L, small aluminum V8’s and it’s not like putting a cast iron 575 pound SBC or 500 pound Ford 5.0L in the car.
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html
Pink MG40709.487650463
Mark thanks for the great imput. I had no idea the two engines were that close in weight. I can make up the 24 lbs difference by getting a thinner girlfriend.
I wonder how the overall lengths compare?Reminds me of the Studillac. You could lose the Stude 232 CI 650 lb engine and repalce it with a Caddy 500 and save 25 lbs. Yikes!
Spend my shop time cleaning and orgainizing more parts and again assualting the broken head bolt.. The bolt is taking way more time than expected. I am going slow and easy. I have repeatedly tried the welding of a nut to it. That worked on two other broken bolts/studs, but not this one. At least not yet.
Yup…a thinner GF will do the trick
Your 215 is 28″ long according to the website I found…didn’t list the Chevette though. Maybe a Chevette engine guy like Larry Murphy can measure his…why not PM him?
That 472/500 cube Caddy is lighter than a Chevy Big Block too.
That head bolt sounds like a PITA…time for the machine shop?
Yahoo! Broken head bolt is a GONE!Shameless plug for a great friend and a great product. Mark hearing my problem send me his set of BAD DOG drill bits. Bad Dog Tools > Home. Pricey tools on the net but they sell for 50% at home shows and fairs. I have some high speed left hand drills that I like to use for removing threaded fasteners. Unfortunately the head bolt was to hard to drill. This was probably from several failed attempts to weld a nut on the broken stud to remove it.I did remove two smaller broken bolts with this method
.His Bad Dog drills have carbide teeth and did the job.Project moves forward. Tonight I look for a skinny girlfriend, but tomorrow some serious wrenching.
Your GF does not frequent this site, one supposes.
Congrats on getting the stud out. I had an easier time with one that snapped on the VW case last year. just lucky I guess. Thanks for the Bad Dog tip. will investigate.
Onward!
Congrats on the successful PITA bolt removal. It’s stuff like this that makes “routine” boring
The payoff when you win is so much more gratifying 
I guess the new head bolts might get swapped over to head studs??? ARP makes two head stud kits for a 215. http://www.arp-bolts.com Choose from 6 point or 12 point nuts too! 124-4002 ($153.60) or 124-4202 ($179.60) respectively. Not much more than buying their new head bolts.
If not, the poor man’s method of gobs of antiseize compound might be a good idea.
EdIf you know a “girl friend” that reads this forum, you have a treasure.I would “pay extra” for that kind of woman.Used to put “case savers” in early VW engines. It sucked when torquing down the head you pulled the stud.MarkYes definitely going with the head studs. New territory for me but seems the way to go.Did you ever read the joke about assembling a kit car in a couple week ends? Ha Ha!Don’t think you reassemble one with an engine swap quite that fast either.Looking forward to some engine work today.My Classic Roadsters Ltd. build on a VW donor car took nine months.
I worked mostly solo, in a one car garage, working some evenings and lots of weekends.
Classic Roadsters assembly manual has time estimates for each major task. Let’s just say I never came close!
Although…a bunch of the Speedster Owners Club guys assembled a Speedster in one weekend, at Carlisle a few years ago.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I actually have this VHS tape that FiberFab/CMC used to send to prospective customers with a build manual.
It depicts these two guys (I called Bevis and Butthead) putting a Gazelle together in a weekend with tools from the wife’s kitchen drawer.
It’s like those TV shows on now that show Chip Foose and others building cars in a 1 hour episode. Ruined the hobby for people that don’t understand this TV crap is heavily edited.
“Real” hobbyists don’t work by deadlines, but all these shows…”Real Cars…Real Techs…Real Deadlines” to quote Dan Woods Chop/Cut/Rebuild depict that these show winners are built in a week or two.
And at some point we realize that the journey is as important as is the destination.
I’m just starting on the journey. I have a TD.com bar badge and an MG parking sign. I’ll get there.
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