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dickh I’d like to take look at yours. i’m in sac.
and yes it a very tight fit.for big shoes
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
Isn’t that a Powerglide behind that 215 Buick? Why the concern over a clutch pedal.
If I ever build another front engine TD replica, it’s going to have a “brainless” Automatic OD trans. My size 13’s won’t fit a three pedal set-up.
Check out the aftermarket for Wildwood or other brand floor mounted brake pedal/master cylinder set-ups. It still allows reservoir access from below the steering column. Most race cars use these.
My pet peeve with the BCW Chevette was the steering column position and angle due to the GM master cylinder location.
Mocked up a new firewall. Wood is OK right? 🙂 Actually have a piece of stainless steel set aside. This allowed the engine to move back so the front almost matches up with the orginal radiator mounts. Moving the firewall back also cleared the master cylinder interference with the exhaust manifold. It also widened the foot wheel so I can get two feet in. So todays gain is exhaust manifold clearance, steering roughed in and pedals located so two feet can be used. Lost some leg room but it is close to Mazda Miata specs.
Spent some time studing master cylinder options. Under floor I have in my Stude and not crazy about. . Under dash was new to me. Rumored to be stock in 70’s Ford and Dodge vans. Pricey from Speedshop suppliers ($300-500). Would like to use these to make a clean engine compartment with a shaved stainless firewall. Yikes!!
Yes the Buick has a auto trans behind it now. Would prefer a 5 speed manual. Buick 215 bell housings are not interchangeable with any other size/year. Can use a Rover or buy a repo @ $400. And then a clutch, flywheel, linkage etc $$$$
Engine seems a bit high. The bottom of the oil pan has 7 inches of ground clearance. Could modify the frame near the firewall and drop it down.
Turns out the manuals I got from the po are not British Coach Works, but the same on this site for download. Would still like to see one of these assembled for some details.
Any comments positive or gently negative much appreciated. Scott
Had to lower the Chevette drive shaft extention to line up with the transmisssion yoke. The pictures came out in the wrong order. The first is the afterward with the Chevette drive shaft extention lowered . The Second picture is the befrore witht the extention above the frame. Had to do some house wiring to get my welder up from the shop into the garage so the welding is not done yet.
just want to mention before any welding to check the pinion angle, so you dont have drive line vibration problems. google it and get lots of info.
you are gonna have a great car from what i see so far. quick,light and well engineeredToday started an engine survey to order missing bits and pieces. On close inspection found three broken studs/bolts. The first two were small. Came out pretty well. Saved the broken head bolt for last. Guess what? Its still in there. A CHALLENGE for sure.
Great thing about Google is when you get frustrated you can find solutions. Found several for broken bolts in aluminum blocks. Will be trying more tomorrow.
Mikeeva: Thanks for the heads up on pinion angle. The welder is up and running but I haven’t stiched that up yet.
Rob That hat may come in handy as it contiunes to rain in Nor Cal. Thanks for the encouragement!
Picture above of my favorite broken off head bolt. Not long for this world I hope.
I mocked up a seat to get some feel for where things go. Again never seen what should be there so I came up with what looked like it fit. The front edge is 7 inches tall and the depth is 19 inches front to back. Seem right?
Remember someone did some seat adjustment to get more leg room but can’t find the info now. Since I moved the firewall back for engine clearance and foot well expansion and am 6 feet tall I could use any legroom tips you got. Please chime in!
Look in my photo gallery. The picture of the seats looking thru the right door is the position I started with.Too far back for me to reach the pedals at 5′-8”. The picture looking thru the left door is my present location ,about 2” to the front with the front of the seats raised up 1”.I have the rear of the seat bottoms directly on the floor brace that runs along the inside of the body.
Montie or James Cochran ,or perhaps both of them have reworked their CMC seats to allow for drivers 6′ and over.
My VW based London Roadster uses a bench seat which I must say is more comfortable than the BCW ,however is raises the seating position in relation to the car .
That mock seat looks about right for an after foam install.
Here’s a site with a lot of detail info on the original TD. Those cars were tight for big guys but it’ll give you an idea about what they looked like.
Here’s a pictorial of the renovation of a TD that was formerly owned by Angie Dickenson. You can see here that the back edge of the seat bottoms were about even with (or a little lower than) the top of the driveshaft tunnel, height-wise. Generally speaking, lower in the back should give you more room for your legs, while putting the top of your head below the top of the windshield.
keep up the good work.
Took the engine block down to the basement shop. This complete engine weighs just 318 lbs. Set it up on an engine stand, removed the freeze plugs and started on the broken head bolt removal. If it works will post pictures tomorrow.
Cleaned up and reorganized the area around the car to start welding on the frame Monday.
I did 2 things to get more leg room. Main thing was moving the seat back to the top of the tub. I had to narrow it about 1″ on each side but was well worth the time and money. Then I re-did the seat bases— I angled them toward the back. It didn’t take much I think I used 4″ in front and 2 1/2 in back still left a little storage under the seats. This also corrected the sight level. Before I was looking over the windshield not almost perfect center. Now I hav 5 to 6 inches between chest and steering wheel and I can see. If you want more details let me know I can add more pic’s if you want too.. Montie
Montie Would like to see pictures. I think I understand but pictures are always welcome. Thanks Scott
It appears that the tub support frame was cut out. Chalk arrow points to what looks like a stub. There is no metal frame to support the back of the tub.The shock absorber is the highest metal frame part.
Seems like a goal post shaped support should go up from the corner, accross the back of the fiberglass tub and back down. Anyone tell me what should be where? Pictures?
Maybe this second picture will be clearer. There is a horizontal square tube just in front of the gas tank and about midway up on the blue shocks. That is the high point of the frame. Seems like there should be support for the fiberglass up higher. Any ideas gladly welcome.
My email is SSmith1636@aol.com if you got pictures
You’re thinking right. I’ve not seen it though.
Say, with that 8 up front, shouldn’t you be thinking roll bar anyway?
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