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“And at some point we realize that the journey is as important as is the destination.” Nice! I got it.
Did I say serious wrenching for today? Well part of the time. Basic block now has cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. Cylinders have been bored. Re tapped threaded holes, ground, sanded and contoured oil flow back areas, particular the lifter valley. Anyone make transparent intake manifolds so all this work can be seen?
Placed order for more engine parts. Trick little gear reduction starter, head stud set, gasket kit and Edelbrock 500, tuned for this engine. Everyone realize you can’t buy a carbureted car and haven’t be able to for years? Built in obsolescence?
FYI SF Craigslist has an original 53 MG @ $10K. I gotta watch my build budget.
Nice looking block, Al.
You do realize the original TDs are strictly show, right? Saw one at Carlisle with Ohio plates. Asked the owner–who looked like a hardy soul–if he drove it. He just laughed. Said it rides like a buckboard & so he never goes more than 20-30 miles at a time, and never near the highway.
Now, I guess a Rover/Buick 8 could cure the “no highway” rule but the rest would take as much doing as you’ll be putting in here, at least.
Oh where or where has my project gone?
add this stuff
Eventually (Lots of eventually) you get this. Yes I know don’t try this at home!
So I did have bunch more engine parts to clean, sand, polish and check. Parts from D & D came today (Thanks Mark for all good service). Crank is ground .020 on mains and .010 on rods. Block is deflashed, sanded bored .020 over and, “Look Maw no paint required”. Aluminum block remember?
Also I had to refurbish the piggy bank so did a side job to get another pile of coins. These engines cost more than Chevy or Ford to assemble. Lost of internet time spent learning. Still looking for a manual trans and rear end.
Seems forever since I have lifted a wrench on the MG. I am building a loft in an Industrial building, and as everything else its taken longer than expected. Floor is in and sheet rock tomorrow so the end is in site.
Meanwhile UPS brings packages just like Christmas. Have most of the stuff to build the engine now. Got these cute little rethreaders from Jaw Mfg. http://www.jawco.com/ Supposed to not remove any metal but make the threaded holes good again. Suggest by a machinist I trust.
And I thought a regular tap would rethread a pre-threaded hole without removing much or any metal. Not so?
I found out the hard way that taps will “weaken” threads in some instances, especially soft metals. Also they snap VERY easily.
I bought a set of barley used (some weren’t) Snap-On re-thread (male) and thread chasers (female) at the Englishtown Raceway Park Spring Swap Meet a few years ago. The local circle track machinist/engine builder told me not to use taps, invest in these.
Great idea to use studs wherever possible in an aluminum engine.
All that polishing and de-flashing will be noticed by real piston heads. Maybe some clear Dupli-Color engine paint will keep the aluminum that way longer too???
Please post some pics of the finished mill
I asked Jim @ Jaw Mfg about, “And I thought a regular tap would rethread a pre-threaded hole without removing much or any metal. Not so?” His reply below.
“The advantage of using our rethreading taps to clean out existing threaded holes is that they normally will not undercut or crosscut the existing threads because of their design, but a regular threading tap can easily undercut or crosscut existing threads unless you are very very careful. That said, you should be careful particularly when starting to clean out an existing thread in aluminum because it is much softer than steel or iron even when using our rethreading taps, but they are still much better than cutting taps even in aluminum blocks. Hope that answers your question.”
Christmas in July. Came home from playing carpenter and found an unexpected package in the mail. Opened it and ta da, “BCW Model 52 Assembly Manual” photo copied 123 pages worth.
Greg S I will name my next three sons after you! You are the man! Thank you, thank you, thank you! What a spectacular treat! I now can identify these bits and pieces that I have. Yahoo!
Yes its fun to assemble one of these cars with out a cheat sheet, but knowledge is power. Now I have answers.
Look it goes together like this!
Insert tab A in to slot B.
Seriously, it is assistance like Greg gave to Scott (Almost) that makes this site what it is. Nice job Greg!
Would one of you send me a copy? I will get it added to the Assembly manual page here.
PMOSSBERG40726.6121875
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Almost
Ok got my pictures to work now. If you go to my pic. at (ray10) so that you can see where the back is screwed down to.
I Have posted there pictures of how mine is set up.
(P.s.) Paul It wasn?t how I was doing it but the type of camera I was using. Some times less expensive is the way to go.
ray1040728.6457986111
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
Thank you Ray for posting your pictures. Great to see how these things go together.
I just discovered the “second” photo gallery and went thru the whole thing. Great cars, people and forum.
Cleaned up evey threaded hole in my engine block with the thread restorers.
Glad to help.
If you need any more pictures let me know ,It going to be a while before i get back to finnishing ” the mistress 2 “
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
Craigslist giveth. Broke ranks today and took a road tip. Look what followed me home.
Even came
with some cool accessories! I LOVE Craigslist!See I have got this problem. After washing the T5 transmission in really hot water, it still is 13 inches longer than the automatic it is meant to replace.
This means the Chevette rear end with its drive shaft extention would have to go. So what to do? Love to put a Miata rear sub frame in with IRS, disc brakes and way less wasted space taken up by shocks. Could probably have enough room for a trunk. What other rear ends fit our fine cars?
I got to get back into the garage today. Did the final clean up of the engine block before starting to put it together.Two thumbs up for two products. Purple Power cleaner. See the container on the June 25th posting. Good stuff. Cleans aluminum like nothing I have ever used. Used a spray bottle and stiff brush. The aluminum gets brighter and the dirt gets darker so you can see what needs to be cleaned.The other is Harbor Freight twist lock surface conditioning disc and a air grinder.Other people make similar products but this was handy. (Thanks Louie). Yes I know I won’t get better mileage, power or top speed, but detailing the engine block makes it mine. Being smooth it does clean easier and less tooth for dirt to stick too.
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