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ray10.
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March 6, 2012 at 11:55 am #244742
Page 3-8 of the Chevette based Gazelle assemply manual (page 28 of the pdf) slso shows a three-way connector block.
PMOSSBERG2012-03-06 11:56:01
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
March 6, 2012 at 12:19 pm #244743ok got some pictures for you
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
March 6, 2012 at 1:34 pm #244744Anonymous
InactivePaul and Ray
Blessings on both of you.Paul –Have never seen the Gazelle assemply manual before and it sure will be a VALUABLE resource.Ray your pictures are EXACTLY what I needed. Now I can get the brakes going. ScottYahoo! Thank you, thank you thank you.March 6, 2012 at 1:50 pm #244745Scott,
Don’t forget the assembly manuals stored here at tdreplica.com. we haev the following:FiberFab Ford Pinto Based Kits
FiberFab VW Based MiGi II
Assembly Manual
Revision E- Wiring Harness Assembly Diagrams
Revision- Chrone Grill Installation
Revision- Chrome Radiator Cap
No-Weld Pedal Cluster Assembly
Revised Bolt List dated 4-10-80
MiGi II Owners Guide
Classic Motor Carriage (CMC) (as sold under the FiberFab name)
VW BASED KITS
CHEVY CHEVETTE KITS
Classic Roadsters, Ltd. ??? VW Based Kits
Part 1 – VW Acquisition, Disassembly and Chassis Preparation, Tool List and Materials to be Purchased (pages 1 to 22)
Part 2 – Body Assembly (pages 23 to 46)
Part 3 – Dash and Electrical (pages 46 to 55)
Part 4 – Body and Interior (pages 57 to 81)
Part 5 – Final Check List and Test Drive (pages 82 to 88)
Part 6 – Templates (pages 89 to 95)
Part 7 – Wiring Schematics – These are included in Part 3, so if you downloaded that section, you do not need to download this again.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
March 6, 2012 at 2:57 pm #244746Anonymous
InactiveDouble YAHOO! I just went out and found I had the exact brand new rubber flex line pictured in Rays pics 3 & 4 above. (To the left of the open differential.) The line has the three way connection built into the end. I have been wasting my time looking for a seperate connection block and hose.For those who feel less experienced. I have never run brake lines, seen an assembled Chevette brake system (or an assembled BCW MG) and a lot of other things of late. The HELPFUL folks on this forum have enabled me to go one step beyond, pushing the envelope of my experiences. So go for it people! Again, thanks all for the help!
March 6, 2012 at 3:22 pm #244747If you need more pic’s just ask, glad you had the part . flaring the brake lines are not to hard to do,Just need to practice a little. Also harbor freight has a flaring tool and bender set price is not bad and works pretty decent.
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
March 6, 2012 at 4:27 pm #244748I would have done the same thing, and assumed the connection block was a separate part!
Glad this is working out!So where was this forum in 1982 when I was building my Duchess?Oh. Right. Al Gore hadn’t invented the internet yet!PMOSSBERG2012-03-06 16:27:16
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
March 6, 2012 at 4:57 pm #244749Paul I think If you had the internet back then , I don’t think you would have gotten yours built .You would have been to busy helping every one else out.
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
March 6, 2012 at 7:49 pm #244750Anonymous
InactiveThe Internet has been very good to me in many ways. Thanks Mr. Gore! This Forum is a leading one. Who would of guessed there was a special interest group of people owning MG kit cars?You tube tutorials is another. You can learn about almost anything. Ordering stuff is another. No trips to the store to find out its not made, not in stock, or cost to much. All from the comfort of home.No pictures today. Decided to go with the third coat of paint, so sanding was in order. Sanded everything with 320 grit wet or dry. If I was a better painter I could of gotten away with two coats. I tend to get impatient with painting. Some of the parts were ok after two coats and some weren’t so why not do them all again? What else am I going to do with the left over paint? Supposed to be good weather Thursday and Friday for painting. Interlux says humidity causes a permanent cloudy ness in the gloss of the paint. Thinking if I get the brake and fuel lines run I can start assembling the fiberglass soon. Got car parts everywhere. Will be nice to assemble them into one running “pile”.March 9, 2012 at 4:39 pm #244751Anonymous
InactivePromised painting weather arrived today. Found a great web site on roll and tip painting a car.Rollering Interlux Brightside Polyurethane Paint – Car Painting That led me to a great discovery. Instead of using a brush to “tip” the paint after rolling, use a dry foam roller. Wish I had discovered this earlier. Probably would of got the job done with two coats. O well, better late than never.Will know for sure tomorrow when the paint is dry, but I think this coat went on considerably smoother than the first two. Part of that would be experience. I only pour out enough paint in the tray to last a short while. Paint left in the tray to long tends to evaporate and thicken. Also with experience you learn how much you can work the paint for proper coverage. Comes with experience. Mistakes are fairly easy to wet sand out.Next step is the final sanding. While waiting for the paint to harden enough for that its back to the brake and fuel linesMarch 9, 2012 at 5:25 pm #244752You might want to wait on the finnal sanding, Interlux say’s it doesn’t need to be sanded,
you might want to read this first,TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
March 9, 2012 at 9:07 pm #244753Anonymous
InactiveRay
Thanks for the imput. They actulally say NOT to sand. I have a couple of days, probably more of other things to do and will check into this further. Thanks for the heads up!March 11, 2012 at 11:41 pm #244754Anonymous
InactiveHelp! Brake hard line tubing SIZE.Went to a couple auto supply places and no one know what size hard line a Chevette takes. Mine are totally missing. The choice is 3/16″ or 1/4″ tubing. Tried finding it on line to no avail. Got my rubber hoses so I can figure fitting sizes, just need tubing size. Thanks in advance.Got a week of rain forecast. Good weather to run brake lines.March 12, 2012 at 5:56 am #244755I used 3/16 to plumb all mine from front to back.Just watch out for metric thread on fittings and wheel cylinders.Although middle 80’s shouldn’t be an issue,just a heads up.
March 20, 2012 at 8:20 pm #244756Anonymous
InactiveMy last order with Auto Zone took 3 or 4 days for something that was supposed to be next day.So this time Eastwood got the order for the brake components. Waited a week and package came on time. Unfortunately they packed the 16 threaded brake fittings in zip lock bag and when it reached me I go 13 out of the 16 fittings shipped. They are closed now so tomorrow will see how good their customer service is.Meanwhile I have been reorganing my shop and my friend Mark is attendingLAZZE Metal Shaping Classes and Videos which is somewhat local. AMAZING what Lazze teaches. He has free videos on the web site that are very informative. A real fabricator for sure! If they can do that with metal, what can we do with Fiberglass? Most anything!March 20, 2012 at 10:13 pm #244757Swedes–can’t trust ’em!
March 20, 2012 at 10:47 pm #244758Hey, watch it there Ed! 😐
I’ll have hundreds of my Mossberg relatives from Sweden over here within hours hunting you down! 👿
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
March 20, 2012 at 11:56 pm #244759My grandmothers maiden name was Peterson or sen, reportedly out of Sweden. I’ve always wanted to visit there. Came as close as Denmark once.
March 21, 2012 at 8:21 am #244760I wouldn’t say it if I didn’t know!:-) We Ericsons cannot be intimidated, Paul.
Seriously though, that’s quite a shop the guy has, and quite a set of skills and, well, quite an accent. I completely want to take his course, change my career, build myself an all-aluminum XK 120C and close the circle (my dad was a body & fender guy). Then I realize: to get good enough to be any good at all would require serious time (Gladwell’s 10,000 hours is probably a low estimate for someone in his 40s).
Even as I’ve gotten older and more realistic about life’s choices, I’m still immature enough to think “I gotta do that.” I’ve not yet learned how to resolve the tension inherent in running up against the final limit.
Midlife crisis, anyone?
March 21, 2012 at 10:11 am #244761MGL…R…
Usually “…son” is Swedish and “…sen” is Norwegian.It’s not always the case, but it is the norm.I think a bunch of us would be tempted to join you in school Ed!I love this quote from Lazze’s bio page, “…as soon as I got my drivers license I bought a 56 Fairlane Victoria two door Hard Top in boxes.”In boxes? How much different is that than what we did?PMOSSBERG2012-03-21 10:12:25
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
March 26, 2012 at 12:21 am #244762Ok paint should be dry by now how did it come out?
TDREPLICA Map
http://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?webmap=7f9174ad614e43b680deba085b0abf48
March 26, 2012 at 10:35 pm #244763Anonymous
InactiveYes Ray the paint should be dry by now. Oh you are right, it is. Paint is not how I want it. Definitely needs something, just don’t know what yet. Looks great from 10 feet, closer not so much. Got to be an answer out there because there are some sharp yachts with this stuff on them. Have it on the horizon to check with the boat people to find answer.March 26, 2012 at 11:01 pm #244764Anonymous
InactiveMade the two hard brake lines for the rear axle. Double flaring went fine.
Lesson learned. Use brake fluid as a lubricant. It makes a difference. Wear a Magnifocuser so you can see what you are doing. Tighten the holder wing nut closest to the tube size you are using first. THEN tighten the wing nut furthest away. Holder slippage seems like the universal problem and this eleminates it. Double flares were pretty easy..
March 26, 2012 at 11:12 pm #244765Anonymous
InactiveDoes this seem like what is needed? The brake wheel cylinder is threaded 3/8-24. It does NOT have a nipple for the double flare to seat on. By threading this adapter in the nipple is installed. Also would a washer be used to seal this adapter?
March 26, 2012 at 11:20 pm #244766Anonymous
InactiveHandy things. Squirt bottle with brake fluid for a lubricant. Used for the screws on the tools and for forming the double flare itself. Three square scraper great for deburing inside of tubing. Magnifocuser magnifier to see details. -
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