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The drive train has been installed and the body dropped on to check clearances. The 2.8 V6 looks like a natural. There may be enough room for a small alternator on lower right and also looks like there will be enough room for steering shaft on the left. Next will be to finish fabricating the front and rear bumper mount areas. This is another reason the body had to be put onboard.
Fit at rear of engine is a pleasant surprise…
That is going to be one sweet ride.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"One of my problems was to get the alternator inside of the bonnet side panels, since the stock mounts stuck the alternator outside about 8 inches. Also there was no room on either side to put in a full size alternator. I found this 40 amp hot rod alternator online. Perfect.
Also bought a flip top fuel cap along with the hose and a neck tube that will be welded onto a custom made tank.
Holy Mackerel! Where did you find that gas cap and the connections? I’ve been looking for one, but have limited space to install. The base has to be 2 3/4″ x 3″.
gas cap and hose was from here
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=263103&Category_Code=fuelfillsfliptop
The tube was from the Speedway Race cataloghttp://www.speedwaymotors.com/Straight-Aluminum-Hose-Connectors,8936.html
Alternator from herehttp://www.rareelectrical.com/p-1733-new-chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-1-wire-new-40-amp-8162.aspx
PMOSSBERG2013-02-25 11:42:30AAAHH!
That’s the same gas cap that started my tear down.
It’s a nice addition. You might consider a section of fuel fill hose that is not wire reinforced. It’d be easier to seal.Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"Looks similar to the one CB Performance has.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackMade outriggers today to hold up the running boards. I previously fiberglassed a teak 1X2 on the bottom of the running boards to give them strength.
I want it strong enough to stand on and also to use as jack points in case of a flat. The welding is just tacked on for now. Only have three three more items to fabricate for the frame: Body mounts, roll bar mount and some kind of way to support the grille. I also want to put a brace on the inside of the front fenders to firmly hold them up and also to give the headlight mounting bar a really firm foundation. Once these items are don, then I can totally dismantle down to bare frame and do the final welding on all the tacks. Put it together, take it apart. Probably several more times to go.
glassed-in teakwood? You’re not taking any chances, eh? But–since it’s invisible and yet expensive– why not 1×2 aluminum square tubing?
1. The teak was left over from an old headboard I cut down. Price=free
2. It won’t ever rot
3. 1X2 Aluminum is pretty thin and will eventually strip the threadsTack welding of frame done enough to lift the body back off. Came off in one piece….
Today I made a bracket for my handy little alternator.
Wow. You are so far ahead of me, skills-wise, that I am becoming embarrassed to post.
That bracket looks like work.
The welds are still pretty ugly, but it will definitely hold the alternator in place with no flexing or vibration. Tomorrow I’ll figure out how to make a belt tensioner form a turnbuckle. This site has a simple one that I’ll copy.
http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/products/Turnbuckle-Alternator-Adjuster-TR8.html
PMOSSBERG2013-03-08 23:44:08
Frame is 99% complete, painted and ready to start mounting the suspension. Final weight, including Mustang crossmember is 200 pounds. Much less than the Chevette frame which was way over 300 without the Chevette crossmember.
The frame has mounting plates welded to it that allows a rollbar to be bolted in place (or removed at any time)
That’s whole project is just friggin’ amazing. I got to go out and buy myself a welder and start learning how to do that.
Wow, very impressive! Love the rollbar provisions! I’d like to have one…
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...Your craftsmanship is amazing!
Nice work!Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Green with envy on the quality of your work. This is going to be one sweet ride.
Bill Ascheman
Fiberfab Ford
Modified 5.0, 5sp., 4:11
Autocross & Hillclimb
"Drive Happy"I have welded small stuff before, but this is first time for a whole car frame. As far as all the other stuff that gets bolted to the frame, I’ve found the conversations that go on in this forum to be truly useful. I don’t think Alfred will be roadable by Carlisle, but I will be there anyway.
A while ago I pulled the oil pan to swap it with one that had a rear sump. When I did so, a woodruff key fell out. I guessed that it was from the harmonic balancer, so I pulled the balancer which came apart. The previous owner must have seperated the balancer from the hub, probably in the act of prying it off. Since there was no key the whole assembly had spun on the crank nose and galled both the crank and the inside of the balancer hub. I had to disassemble the front of the engine to get at the crank nose so ZI could file it smooth again. It finally slipped on fine again. Whole assembly is back together and lined up fine on the timing mark. Does not look like much progress happened, but it was nasty work. Finally got whole front of engine together and also mounted the turnbuckle spreader for the mini-alternator. Also used POR-15 exhaust paint on the manifolds and stripped and painted the valve covers. That POR-15 is expensive but looks good. I like a clean engine.
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