Carburetor

[Stefan]

Just bought a VW based 1952 MG TD. I bought the car to help teach myself how work on cars since it has been something I have always wanted to know how to do. I was told by the previous owner that the carburetor needs to be cleaned and rebuilt. I am assuming this is why its a spray to start type of car right now. I would like to know how to verify if it only needs to be cleaned and rebuilt, or if there is some other issue, or if I should install a new one.

Also only the speedometer is wired in, so I would also like to know how some of yall wired in the other gauges.

Apologies that I am a noob, but I appreciate any help 🙂

-S

[Toller]

What carb is currently installed? As for rebuilding, would start with good cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaner with varsol to dissolve the varnish that builds up when the ethanol laced gasoline evaporates. Will also need an air compressor to blow out all the orifices in the carb. Do not use wire to try and clear blockages as invariably you may cause more problems than you are solving. If after cleaning and reassembly using a rebuild kit for the model of the carb look for any leaks of fuel or vacuum. Unless you have skill and equipment to rebush the various shafts best to have it rebuilt by pros, look for rebuilt one or lastly buy new. Lots of junk is on the market so ask what others have had success with. As for gauges, what are you looking for? There are electrical schematics in the library on this site that show how to wire them and what sensors are used. In my case I installed fuel, oil temperature, oil pressure and voltage gauges to monitor performance. I also installed GPS based speedometer and tachometer

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[edward ericson]

Book 1 to buy or borrow: “How The Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: a Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot”

You will find many answers in there, the most important one being “don’t panic.”

Most old Bug engines came equipped with a 1-barrel Brosol or Solex carb. Cleanout and new gaskets are typically all they need but if you’ve got an odd one with a lot of miles there could be some wear on the holes the butterfly valve pivots through. That’s what Dave is talking about; for most, it’s not a home fix.

Wires on these kits are all different, as most were assembled in private garages by guys who did not consider wiring their strong suit.

Don’t panic: there’s only a few in them, plus about six fuses. You got this.

[Stefan]

I think that I am probably leaning towards buying a new carb and installing it. The ultrasonic cleaner is about $90 at harbor freight, plus the cost of the cleaning solution and compressed air. Although, I am curious at the frequency that I would have to clean the new one. I am assuming that I would end up buying all that stuff eventually to do that anyways. Regardless, I think that it may be better to get a nice new one that I know how its been maintained. Any recommendations on brands for the carb (preferably the best bang for the buck kind of deal, I am a college student on a budget)?

[Stefan]

Thanks! Once I figure out what year beetle I have, then I will make sure to buy it.

[Toller]

If you are in US you have a number of VW parts outlets that will new carbs from a variety of manufacturers. I use CIP1 as they have a number of carbs at different price points. Another option is to buy a rebuild from Tim at Volkzbitz, many owners have spoken highly of the quality of his work

David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabine

[Stefan]

I have heard of Volkzbitz frequently on forums, but he is too pricey for me right now.  I will certainly check out CIP 1 before I buy, thanks 🙂

[Paul Mossberg]

Stefan,

You mentioned being unsure about the year of your VW donor.

The VW VIN is stamped into the center tunnel, right next to the access panel for the shift rod to transaxle coupling (under you seat!)

Once you have the VIN, look it up here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php

As the engine may not have come from the original Beetle, and because engine changes were often made midstream during a model year, you also want to check the engine number. It is stamped into the engine block, just under the generator stand. You can look up engines here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php

Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica Roadster

If you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)

[Stefan]

thanks, was able to figure out I have a 66 and not a 73 as I was told by the seller. Glad I found out before I bought a new carb, going to be buying the EMPI 30PICT-1 Carburetor 

[Author]

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