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Found this site with pictures of the old Classic Roadsters Ltd. factory back in 1983. This is about a year after my kit was manufactured: http://www.blackhawkengr.com/Classic%20Roadsters%20Factory%20Tour.htm
And here are a couple street view pics of the factory today:
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
WOW Paul thanks for sharing. FYI, I came across my Classic Instruments Installuation Booklet the other day, as I need to replace my glass tank sending unit. The sending unit is not marker with any kind of a number so I do not know how may ohms it is. Might you know? My Dutchess was built in 1985 the only othe way is to pull the Gas Guage out of the dash and see if I can find a part number on it and try to match up the correct sending unit….. thanks
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayPretty sure Classic Instruments is not related to that company. But they are still around and can be reached.
Ditto what Ed wrote. Classic Roadsters Ltd. and Classic Instruments were not related.
The fuel gauge in my Duchess matched the standard VW sending unit (1o ohms empty/80 ohm’s full I believe). Unless the builder changed something, I suspect you have a stock VW sending unit in your Classic Roadsters tank.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
I drove through Fargo last year and took a few photos of the former CRL building. Presently there is one remaining in my media gallery. The building was for sale and had only a minor tenant.
Thanks Paul and Ed for your feed back. I have the original fuel guage installed in my reconditioned dash, but the original fuel sender in the original optional Dutchess tank that I have has no part number markings on it. There maybe a part number stamped on the dash guage, but I have been avoiding trying to taking it out due to some vertigo problems that I have been experiencing. I will call the Classic Instruments Company, and pick their brain as well. Again thanks guys for being a reference. I know the sending unit is the problem, as I am not getting any readings on my amp meter.
Dave
Dave
Lakeland, Florida, where we drive Topless every dayDave. Any idea what the ohms range on your existing sender is or is supposed to be? Anything mentioned in any of your Duchess paperwork? Just tossing thoughts out. Keep hunting it down. I know you’ll get it.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackDave
VDO fuel senders use a variable resistor rated from 10 to 180 ohms. If you pick up a potentiometer from Radio Shack with same ohm specs you can use it to test the gauge by connecting the two wires that are currently connected to the fuel gauge sender then adjust the potentiometer to simulate the a full or empty fuel tank. You will have to turn the ignition switch on, to supply power to the gauge to do the testing. If you don’t have an ACC setting on the ignition switch you will have to start the car or run a + jumper to the gauge and connect to the correct tab. You will likely find four tabs, one + for powering the gauge, one + for the light in the gauge, one – for the light and one – from the fuel sender
You can also test the sender with an ohm meter but you will have to pull the unit from the tankDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineHey Toller,
Are the VDO sender units different from the VW ones? I have a new VW sender unit that I put in with the new tank but the gauge is not working. So I guess the real questions is, if I replace the VW sender with a 10-180 ohm unit, might that solve my gauge problem?
Vicenç - (bee sense)
Pembroke Pines, FL
1986 Aston - BCW Model 52 - "Montse II"(1983 FiberFab MiGi II - "Montse")
sabreur76
Can not answer definitively as I don’t know specs for VW fuel senders. What I would recommend is isolating the three components of the system. One, check continuity of wiring with Muir test light and battery or VOM which is my preference. If wiring to gauge and sender is good, verify you have a good ground/negative wire to sender. Remove sender from tank and put VOM probes, set on resistance scale, one on each post of sender and move the float to see if ohm reading changes. If low reading is around 10 ohms and high is 180 then sender is probably ok. If there is no change in readings then buy the $5 potentiometer from Radio Shack or the Net and connect it to wiring in place of sender as noted in previous post to verify integrity of the gauge. If you get no change in reading on gauge then it probably needs replacementDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
Sabinesabreur76
Found a old VW sender part #113919049D that when tested shows a range between 7 (full) and 30 (empty) ohms. There are additional markings on the sender showing 8 80 which may have been the original ohm specs. I replaced the unit because the VDO fuel gauge was still showing half a tank when in fact it was empty. Therefore, using a VDO sender (10 to 180 ohms) with a VW gauge may show a full tank properly but may fail to show an empty tankDavid B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineDave @davearoy,
I’m starting over, with a simple question.
You wrote you need to replace your sending unit. Why do you believe that?
If you are getting no reading at all on the gauge, then yes, the sending unit may be bad.
Is it a misread situation? If yes, what’s the error? Read on to see why I am asking.
All of this assumes a Classic Roadsters Ltd. VW based Duchess built per the factory provided parts and directions.
The Duchess has a factory provided gas tank. But it used the sending unit from the donor car (or a new VW sending unit). The gauge package included a gas gauge for the stock 10 ohms empty 80 ohms full VW sending unit.
Problem is, the VW sending unit did not have the physical “swing range” to match the factory gas tank. When the gauge read empty, the tank was still half full. And once a full tank started emptying, it wasn’t long before the gauge needle would start jumping all over the place as the sending unit float bounced up and down in the partially filled tank.
Anyway, I just wanted to point out that if you are experiencing symptoms similar to the above, it may all be working per the factory spec. If you are experiencing other problems, then I just wasted a few minutes of your time that you won’t get back. 😉
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
What happened? I’m no longer on the member list, But I can still sign in the old name and password?
Randy in Chandler Arizona, great B-bopp'in teritory. I must have the only one in the country made by Rich Industries in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, on a 1986 Ford Cortina (english ford escort) It's a 1600cc straight four cylinder front engne, 4 speed, changed from right side driver to left side with several shafts and u-joints. BEBOP because I once had an MGB with license plate MG-BEPOP in Virginia.
Hey bebop…
A little off topic, but I took a look and I see you are on the member list. All should be ok.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
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