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Has anyone encountered a problem with a defective condenser? If so what were the symptoms that led you to suspect the condenser was failing or defective? Have read that good maintenance practice has been to replace condenser at same time as points are replaced. Suspect this is a preventive recommendation but I am interested in finding out what happens when the condenser fails.
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineI have. Symptom was intermittent spark/firing after engine warmed up. Right after starting, when engine was cool, it ran fine. The longer it ran, the worse it missed until the engine died. The condenser would get hot to the touch – I suspect it was breaking down internally due to heat buildup.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...I second that. Have had those same indications on a number of condensers that have failed. That’s another reason to switch to electronic ignition. But I carry a new set of points and a new condenser in a plastic bag as an emergency replacement.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackKentt
What led you to conclude the the condenser was the cause of the problem? I have encountered identical symptoms as you described and replaced plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, reset the points all to no avail. As points and condenser were less than a year old and had less than 200 kms run time had not considered that it would be failing. Was there any conclusive test that you carried out that pointed to the condenser as failing?David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineWhen I popped the distributor cap off, after the engine died, to check the points (to see if they may have moved and closed the gap) I found the condenser so hot that it would almost burn my fingers. I had already changed out the usual culprits of spark plugs, points, even etc. After that, I always replaced points and condenser at the same time. As Allen states, an electronic distributor eliminates both points and condenser as failure/wear points. Set and forget – until they fail. So, carrying a new set of points and condenser, along with a fan belt, etc. in the spare parts kit is prudent.
Early FF TDr on 69 VW pan
Slowly coming back from the ashes...So in the future when problems as described are encountered the definitive test when a defective condenser is suspected will be called the kentt burnt finger test aka KBF test Others may have used the test but kentt has been the first to document the process. Congrats
David B Dixon
Port Perry ON CA
SabineDitto the symptoms noted above.
Solve it all by going with Pertronix. Everything fits under the distributor cap. They have kits specifically for VWs. And ditto what Kent said about electronic conversions. Carry a spare points and condenser in case the module fails.
Paul Mossberg
Former Owner of a 1981 Classic Roadsters Ltd. Duchess (VW)
2005 Intermeccanica RoadsterIf you own a TDr and are not in the Registry, please go to https://tdreplica.com/forums/topic/mg-td-replica-registry/ and register (you need to copy and paste the link)
Toller. Another test I was shown was to disconnect the condenser terminal from the points and ohm it out. It should read one way and hardly at all or nothing the other way. If it reads in both directions its bad. I was told to think of it as a large diode passing lots of voltage one way and almost none the other way.
Allen Caron
VW based 53MGTD - "MoneyPenny"
"If one thing matters, everything matters" - from the book The ShackAllen, I apologize but your post about testing the condenser is simply wrong.
A condenser can not and should not be thought of as a diode. A condenser will “charge” up when a voltage is applied across it, as current is stored in the condenser. To test a condenser (automotive) you can apply voltage either way and this is most easily done with a standard volt-ohm meter on the resistance (ohm) scale. (A VOM has a small battery inside the case and when the leads are touched to anything, it applies a small voltage (typically 9vdc) to the object.) When applied to a typical automobile condenser, the VOM should initially read very little resistance and then gradually (all this takes place in the matter of a second or two) the resistance increases as the condenser charges up. These condensers do not care about polarity. The only thing that can be said about testing a condenser with a standard VOM is: if it reads zero resistance it is bad (polarity doesn’t matter). If it reads some higher value of resistance, it MAY be good, – or not.
Either way, condensers are relatively inexpensive and can be affected by heat. Carry a spare because if it shorts out (zero resistance) the car won’t run.
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